Redramman

After adding fluid to clutch bleed the air out.I had to soak bleader screw in PB-blast penitrating oil and then later heat it a bit to get it unstuck just go easy on heat.

No, I was just thinking that the large vacume hose that atatches to Brake power booster could be temperarely disconected to spray in watter in vacume hose instead of throttle body,then Reconect hose,but its probably a dumb idea since I need one hand on throttle one on hose and a third hand to work spray bottle. No spark knock problem just low compression posibly carbon on a valve ,but I think its stuck rings or maybe hole in #1 piston.

Release parking brake! :D I don't know what mpg the Comanche gets,My Son drives it and he spends $50 and that only gets 3/4 tank.To figure mpg always start with full tank drive till it's at least down to 1/2 tank write down miles fill and write down gallons etc.... The gas gauge is just not accurate enough to tell how many gallons you use. Anyway I get 12.5 mpg in my 6300lbs 1999 RAM 2500 4x4 360 V-8 (gas) auto trans 4:10,with 35"tires (and yes the spedometer has been corrected),so something is not right with your truck.

So it's not Chinese water touture after all :D I just warm up engine take air hose cover off throttle body open throttle a bit and spray in water mist with spray bottle right? or do you spray into brake booster vacume hose?(never done it just herd of it).Also has anyone tried motor flush that you add to oil then idle engine for a few minutes then change oil?

Son's jeep is 2wd ,but Ram 4x4 does that in 4x4 on hard suface and it binds much more in low range for some reason, it's alot worse when tires are aired down. Put it on jack stands in neutral then rotate tires by hand ,turn steering wheel,etc...this and previus methods to check u-joints ... but some binding is normal .

SummerinMain, Whats the water cure ?Hydrolock the engine till a rod pokes through the block and then you know for sure it needs an engine??? :brows:

Thanks for the info, yea it was not warmed up much last time .I'll hook the air compressor to the tester hose to listen for leakage at exhaust ,throttle body and I guess oil cap or oil dipstick . The dumm part is I forgot all that last time untill I was putting tools away and only then noticed instructions with the compression tester.At least oil has No coolant and coolant has No oil mixed in. :cheers:

I never have that problem in my 2500 Ram 4x4 :D maybe in the Jeep?

Yes I will check the engine out some more ,I'll have to rerun the compression test last time I did not have throttle open and I forgot to try oil in cylinders to check rings. #1was 60psi, #2,#3,and#4 had 100psi still low overall but if they all had 100psi it would run better.I was thinking about the hole in piston posibility ,one of my friends had a truck with a hole in the piston caused by a hex nut that fell into cylinder. :eek:

If we did end up puting in 4.0 swap will 4cyl radiator still cool it? Motor mounts? and how many mpg could it get in 2wd 5spd. Comanche?This probably is best to do with a donner vehicle . I'd rather keep the 4cyl. if posible, or practical($).

I hope that 2.5L is repairable for around $300 in parts. Want to try to keep 4cyl. for MPG truck is 2wd 5spd and we don't have hills to climb.It's my sons vehicle so I kind of like the fact that it keeps his top speed down to 80mph .This truck only shows 062000miles so I'm surprised compression was so low on #1cyl. lots of blow by had to put a hill-billy jug in ccv system. I'm thinking it must have run low on oil at one time??? Will 4.0 work with 4cyl trans? and D35 axle?(survive)?

Just called Napa and they have a ring and bearing kit for $95.99,so depending on the engine thats the minimum$$ probably at least have to add timming chain .Hope the cam is ok. any way that puts the cost of parts at $100-$500 (or more) .Is there a NAPA site that lists prices? Can anyboby recomend a Machine Shop for machine work and magnafluxing head in the Livonia,Redford, Westland Michigan area?

Thanks, I'll check that out. Just saw a short block for $990 but hope engine is not that bad.

I looked up a engine rebiuld kit for a 1990 2.5 4cyl. and come up with one for $790.00,it included new pistons.Won't know for sure what will be needed till engine is taken appart, but I wonder if anyone knows a good source for a cheaper engine rebiuld kit? Might end up just getting a gasket set and seperate parts but kits are normaly cheaper to buy.How much is a rebiult short block?

The red crew is realy well done. I'd just fix up the blue Cherokee. then if you realy,realy, still want truck 4dr,cut the rear roof and 1/4 window off and add the rear part of bed from MJ basicly only useing the bed from the middle of wheel well back.But I'd just fix up the XJ and get a trailer for hauling . You could make a matching XJ trailer out of the MJ bed!

Thats a good point disk brakes use a check valve usualy located in master at the line fitting. Pete M when you converted to 4disc did you swap master cyl? Although the original poster said he put in a new master and still had same problem.Hmmm....

!990 2wd LB. 4cyl. park brake cables in from front .star wheel adj. cable on rear shoe pulls lever up to lengthen adjuster. The lever that attaches to park brake cable is also on rear shoe.

I might be able to cut a hole in bottle to fit the gromet and breather,and run the hose in jut past the breather opening. of course then emptying the jug might be harder. Maybe I could just hose clamp the breather to something and run 2 hoses out of bottle one to breather the other to valve cover.Or use a Y tube,the bottom of the Y to bottle etc.I just want to take the air filter box out of the ccv circuit.

Might have to do hill billy jug anyway, but on this truck I can only fit a empty 32oz. gear lube bottle on the pasenger side next to the shock tower. Even though its a 4cyl the air box system takes up most of the driverside fender. How fast does your gallon jug fill up?

Finaly had a chance to work on Jeep. went to Murrays auto got a chrome breather and gromet I'll let you know if it keeps the oil from leaking everywhere. At least the air filter should'nt get soaked in oil.Still trying to figure out which motor flush or seafoam to use to try to loosten rings and clean engine .

Never done it but get a doner vehicle and work slow. don't forget the vacume hoses and reservoir. Another source for electrical is Painless Wiring. Go to a street rod show or site and ask around or look up after market AC kits. Warning AC system must be pumped out before disassembly.

Have no Idea other than double check the fireing order to make sure plug wires are all on correct plugs, Do the compression test, and hook up a vacume gage. Check fan clutch. Fuel pump,filter.I have a problem with fuel in my Dodge Ram not wanting to burn properly below 1/4 tank,try adding octane boost 104+ or just more gas maybe 89oct.

Did some measuring and my valve cover holes without grommet are both 1" dia..With engine running I removed front hose going to air filter and held a rag over hole,the rag pulsated sucking in an blowing out. A compression test shows #1 at 60psi, #2,#3,and#4 at 100psi .I did not retest with oil in cylinders but think its rings because compression biult up from low psi with every stroke. I might re-do test and put oil in cylinders and hook up air compressor to gage hose to listen for air leak location? Truck runs good even whith such uneven compression but this explains the slight vibration over 65mph. I wonder if rings could be just stuck? It seems like valve guids would have to be realy worn to biuld up that much preasure in valve cover so I doubt thats the problem? Thanks for the (link) info on hose recall and Napa parts. Anybody else have simular compression readings ?

You could make some big plywood triangles and screw them on both sides .Even if they only went from pointed end at start of ramp to about 2/3 of the ramp they will make it way more safe. Also keep it coverd the weather will weaken wood structures fast.

Cool! Link worked thanks for the help and Info. Bye (its way past my bed time got to get up at 4:30AM)Goodnite.