AeroNautical

Tried it, didn't make a difference. Both the bulb and socket contacts are clean, what else could it be?

Well, it seemed to have brightened things up a bit, but I still have a problem with the driver side. The engine was running when I took this picture, so power isn't an issue. Did I just get a faulty bulb?

Outstanding, thanks guys. I'll clean it all up and report back. I've read through those Renix tips several times, trying to do as much I could, now's the perfect time to thoroughly clean the connectors.

What do you think is actually causing the dim lights, though? Am I right to think it might be the ground, or are these notorious for dimming after awhile?

Both the front driver and passenger side turn signal lights are very dim, with brand new bulbs in each. I tried cleaning the connectors as best I could, but where do these lights ground? The tail lights, marker lights, headlights and all work perfectly. Tired of gettin honked at when I use my turn signals, but the fronts are too dim to see, even at night.

Cool, looks like a solid MJ. I think that kid needs a good smack, though. What transmission did the PO put in?

I want it just so I can talk to the guy, just about every damn thing he said I agree with. Never knew some later XJs had idiot lights and no tachs.

I've actually got a 2wd swb manual driveshaft that needs cutting, that has a yoke with too few splines, so I have to rely strictly on the information on here. If 42.25" is ideal, then it sounds like I've got what I need to cut it. Thanks for the help.

How do I figure out the length I need with a lift? I've got a 4.0 ax15 231 8.25 soa set up, so I've got atleast 5 inches of lift in the rear. I'd imagine that'd pull the shaft out a bit, but is there any real way to tell?

How can someone justify a $20,000 price tag on a 27 year old truck? 2.5L at that. She looks purty, but holy hell. Owner couldn't be bothered to even take a decent shot of the truck, I hate people like that. Looks like a near stock MJ, how much is it really worth?

THAT, is a fun project... No, I had to do alot of rewiring on my MJ because of PO electrical "mods". Hardest part is tracing the wires, which means ripping out the dash. Fun times...

You just saved my @$$, checked the fuse on the block and it was pretty much melted. Recrimped the connectors on the fuse block and put a fresh fuse in, and it worked like a charm.

I'm having this same issue right now, tail lights work, but brakes and hazards don't. Can't find that connector, either. Two positive wires, one headed to the rear of the engine block/alt, one to the relay block.

Over the last week, I: Ripped out my pukey and installed a 4wd ax15 231 combo ripped out the dana 35 and put in a 29 spline 8.25 converted to rear discs put in xj shackles to lower the SOA a bit Been quite the successful week.

Sounds like the TPS isn't giving the engine the proper amount of gas. Sometimes they get stuck in one position, other times they won't send the right voltage. I'd say grab one from rockauto and readjust it. One for an auto tranny is a hell of alot cheaper than one for a manual, and it works the same. Great info in the post Butchershop linked, this might also help a bit: http://comancheclub.com/topic/38612-very-high-idle/

I understand it's a smart thing to do, but the seals on there now have MAYBE 1000 miles on em, wanted to save myself some work and money.

I tore it down to install disc brakes, but I figured I would clean it while it was stripped. The scorch is about a quarter way up the shaft, well away from the bearings. It just seems like a machining error from the factory the closer I look at it.

Really? I'm surprised that stuff wouldn't be too tough on the seals, thanks for the advice. Any idea on that axle shaft before I put it back in? Edit: It looks bent in the photo, but thats an illusion. It's straight, just got that scorch mark.

I had a similar problem, whenever I turned the wheel left it made a horrible squeaking noise. Turned out to be bad bushings, from the PO neglecting to grease em once in 25 years. Grease all the fittings on your front and just to make sure, if the sound continues it may be your steering gearbox or pump. Brother is having that issue right now, actually...

I've searched around the web a bit trying to find out how to thoroughly clean a differential and axle tubes. I've read brake cleaner works well, I've also read putting your garden hose on one side and filling it until it pours out the other is a good way to get out debris and other nasties. Honestly, I'm a bit skeptical when it comes to putting water where it shouldn't be. How do you guys recommend cleaning up the diff? On a side note: I didn't want to make a new post for this, but I removed my axle shafts and found a startling scorch mark on one of my axles. It doesn't look too bad, but what do you guys make of it?

In with the new: Rear disk brakes tomorrow, cutting the driveshaft next week. After that she'll be road able again!

6 inches? Wow, my leafs must be saggier than a.... never mind. With the MJ shackles I get about 5 inches max.

I just did an SOA with a 29 spline 8.25, I'd say it gave me about 4 1/2 to 5 inches. I'll add XJ shackles to lower it a bit later on, something to think about.

Amen to that, I try to steer clear of downtown unless I'm driving my MJ, just because them city folk are afraid of it, hahahaha.

I can tell you first hand it's incredibly difficult to find the ax15 t-case linkage. I've been told this works, and better at that: http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/shifters/sk2xc.htm As for the cover plate, is it that thin metal spacer between the trans and flywheel? If so, they should be easy to find in the JY if you've got time to drop a tranny in the dirt.