AeroNautical

6 quarts of 10w-30. And you have to remove the instrument bezel to gain access to the radio. It's that big plastic piece that surrounds all your gauges, radio, environment control, etc. Screws are kinda hidden underneath, but easy to get to. Welcome to the forum! Alot of new members lately.

I second this, it'd be pretty cool to talk to some of these guys in real time.

I busted out laughing when that thing started kickin sand and shot off like a rocket up that dune.

You have to start a build thread, or just a thread showing off your MJ. It's staff chosen every month, so take lots of pictures and post em up. If you've got a real eye catcher, place it near the beginning of your post.

What I woulda done is gotten rid of those heavy differentials, transmission, driveshafts and 4.0, added rear facing thrust from the turbine engine and an awesome throttle quadrant inside the cab. Be hitting mach within a few seconds, now THAT is a land speed record.

I could say what it might be, but the easiest way to tell is if you snap a picture of your differential cover, it's probably a Dana 35. Edit: Oh yeah, welcome to the forums!

Took me a second, thought the picture wasn't showing up. Clever.. haha

Here's a picture of mine with 235 75 15 tires (near stock) and soa with 4.5 ruby coils up front. I like the rake. shelbyluvv: What's the story behind putting Cherokee on the side of your MJ? That is a nice truck, really like the topper.

Yep, 31x10.5 tires with no lift, just have to adjust the steering stops so your don't rub at full steering. If you don't need the lift, don't get it. Worse gas mileage from bad aerodynamics, unneeded money spent, higher center of gravity. Stick with stock height if shes your DD.

Got it, I may just pop the cap off myself and rub some grease in there before wheeling trips. Hope to install it this friday, I hate front end alignments, but I've gotten pretty good at it, haha.

Yeah, the minds over at RC didn't think that one out at all, there is no reason I can think of as to why they shortened it. I just got this tie rod in the mail, seems like a solid kit, thanks for telling us about it, but I noticed the bar side TRE (not the actual tre) didn't have a grease hole or nipple. How did you grease it?

Huh, that's something to think about! The bike came with brush guards for hands, that'll do for now. Been driving it for a couple weeks now, very conservatively while I'm still learning. I had to teach myself up to this point unfortunately, but the military requires a safety course to be taken at the unit to drive on post, so that'll teach me a hell of alot more than what I can find online. I've got a master cylinder rebuild kit on the way, and I'm lookin for a closed cell battery so I don't have to service it. Saddle bags are back on, and driving this thing is a blast. Took it offroad for the first time today to get a feel for it, nothing harsh, just a rocky field. FUN

I had gotten an RC tie rod upgrade, and I was more than impressed with it, except for one aspect: It was a good few inches shorter than the stock tie rod, and for absolutely no reason. Lifting your vehicle doesn't bring the TREs together, why shorten the bar made specifically for XJ, MJ and TJ? There was about a quarter inch of thread bite on each TRE, for safety I like atleast 1 1/2 inches of bite. The V8 ZJ upgrade is a common one, and this might be enough to push me to buy it. Thanks for the post!

Do you have a build thread on an aviation forum somewhere? I'd love to read through em. I can't allocate money to aviation right now, but hopefully after some active duty time I'll have a chunk of change to spend on building hours. Granddad learned on a Stearman before he moved onto SBD Dauntless and Helldivers. Naval aviators these days rely so much on automation for carrier landings, it's amazing what they did back then.

This bike weighs 350 wet, pretty light and easy to handle. The first to go if it's dropped are the turn signals and brake/clutch handle, not a cheap fix, so here's to hoping I never drop it. I did a partial tune up today, most bike shops are closed sunday, so I replaced the spark plug, lubed the chain, bled the brakes, cleaned the air filter, got the tires at the right PSI and learned to remember to put the fuel tank selector to on when starting, haha. Also removed the saddle bags for learning, I'll put em back on when I get a handle on the bike. Just bought insurance last night, title transfer, registration and oil change tomorrow.

Glad to hear! Seems almost too simple, actually. And that website is exactly what I needed, thanks. I was warned of this, but was also told to specifically look for this bike as a beginner. I'm looking into street tires until I start off roading it more than commuting. I appreciate your concern, absolutely noted. I'll tell him that! He'll appreciate it. I'm not sure, actually. It's my buddies, I'll ask next time I see him. I'm in the market for one right now.

I decided awhile back I needed a more fuel efficient DD, my MJ was definitely not cutting it. I present my "new" 91 Yamaha XT 350 Dual Sport. Fun to drive, great off road, street legal AND over 70 MPG. She hits 85, more than enough speed for a daily commute. I have very little riding experience, don't even have a bike license yet, but this bike is a great place to learn. Quick, agile, light and a hell of alot of fun on and off road. Single cylinder, 350cc, dual cam, air cooled "thumper", apparently just as bullet proof as our beloved 4.0s. She needs a bit of work aesthetically, but runs perfectly with a recently rebuilt carb. I'm proud to call her my own. The tool box on my MJ prevents me from hauling the bike in my bed, so I recruited the help of a buddy of mine who just got his MJ: Anyone here have experience with these bikes? Look forward to documenting the work I put into it on here.

Yeah, funny story. The zip tie was temporarily holding the brake line bracket in place, it's since been replaced with bolts. The load sensing valve was untouched, but instead of creating a longer push rod, I just kinda placed it level and tightened the bolt on the diff cover down. It's an 8.25, so there is a lip on the cover that prevented the bracket from being flush. Hasn't moved, and it works just fine.

Welded mounts on the axle. Very easy to do, even with little welding experience. This is an old picture, I cleaned the welds up nice so they wouldn't rust, plus got new shocks.

That's a slick lookin wrangler.

Buddy of mine had just gotten this immaculate MJ, came by and a bunch of us tailgated from the driveway. Neighbors spend several thousand on fireworks this year. It's cheap when it's BYOB and the show's in your front lawn.

Long time no see! I had actually done this with safety wire (all I had on hand). It keeps the sides of the gasket in place, but doesn't help much for the RMS part of it, because there is a good stretch of gasket that isn't retained by bolts, it just kinda slides into place, just never the right place.

Yep, blue fel pro, same for my valve cover and every other gasket I've replaced. The one I had taken off was quark. I believe the torque value was 7 ft/lb, hardly even worth breaking out the torque wrench.

It might on stock trucks, but I have enough lift that all I need to remove is the steering stabilizer. There is room to work with, it's not even all that difficult to get bolts to line up, it's just getting that gasket to seat perfectly. There are thick parts to it, also, so you can't just replace it with a load of RTV.

That's a tempting offer, haha. Isn't it funny how removing the engine would be easier than replacing this gasket?