AeroNautical

Thanks pete. I'm sure sourcing a bed corner would be tough, so I'll explore pulling the dent, and filling the rest with bondo.

I can weld, I've got buddies who may have a dent puller, I'll ask around, I've never applied bondo before, but I'm sure it isn't too difficult, right? I work in aviation maintenance, so I know my way around a rivet gun, and can bend some metal. I'm not sure how well I could make a cap, though, with the lines and being right at the corner of the bed.

On the aft, upper, right hand bed corner, the previous owner must’ve backed into some thing. It’s been covered by Bondo up until the other day when the cap fell out. I’m trying to get the MJ ready for paint, a good paint this time. I’d like to fix this before then. I went to a body shop for a quote, but they never got back to me. Probably a good thing, I can imagine this would cost quite a bit. If I take the tail light out, it’s relatively easy to get behind the dent, but not a lot of room to swing a hammer. What do you guys think as far as a repair? On an unrelated note, the new iPad pros have a lidar sensor. They can take 3-D images of anything in the real world, like the image attached. That’s incredible technology, I can’t believe they packed that into an iPad.

Unfortunately, she's rattle canned green now. When I bought her she was camouflage, and I hated it. I knew she was blue by what color the floors and around the door jam were, it even seemed like there was some metallic flakes in the paint to make it shine. After the brake lines and some body work, my next step is either paint her a QUALITY green again, or back to blue.

My truck was originally dark blue with a dark blue interior. Unfortunately, not anymore. The trim is faded and the paint is something else entirely.

Just an update, I put the fuse back in on a rainy day, and all works as it should. I know this is borrowed time, but I'll take it for now.

Gotcha, sounds like I've got some diagnosing to do. I'm sure the motor is fine, as it is stuck on and behaves as expected in that regard. Thanks.

This is the first electrical issue I've had since my full rewire back in 2017. I swapped over to high output, from a 93 XJ. I turned my wipers on the other day, no worries. It has intermittent, low and high. The intermittent slider... intermittently works, and sometimes doesn't park the blades when shutting off. Now, they just don't shut off at all. I pulled the wiper fuse for a temp solution. It sounds like it could be a bad switch, but I don't want to rule out a relay or that little black box under the dash I heard fails often. Any way to test that box? Thanks guys.

This wouldn't be the cheapest method, but maybe try using a dye with the pag oil and service the system as soon as vacuum is placed on it. You'll either see it right away, or it will accumulate where ever the leak is over the course of a few days. Might give you a better idea of where the leak actually is. Lets hope it's not leaking at the evaporator, that would be another dash pull...

If you drive it on road, absolutely keep the sway bar. If your talking about the rubber bushings, they are cheaply replaced, about 8 bucks a link: https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5559168&cc=1181720&pt=7580&jsn=857&_nck=Ekt6BqBF1pwlXdx0gYlm1esw98pF26vehMm%2FGG3C%2Fl2QOXSJubi7WSpUmUSdg3OxWOs2f5z9h422EONy36O0PjCuaadDqI1r86y%2FvJ1lBqxeBNhI9mMX8H1x0fHFzmF%2BKG7YKD8h756k3BtrsE6fARMKaXNp7eQFiprUry%2F3aNaQKjQsmXoMDilrLCMYgOIsMiuO7dm4JKqdyjUkyeP2%2BBjaBbsD0tvtPoJg7l9R3wmN63AXPR6F6KmucmgdZ7dJtxhjeP9hcrMPdpnrzN8KgBObwxWu0qVIRK66Zf40RslLJy2T0n5eOui%2FQlAJQmPTKtlQlyvVUuMg39c7NwCxWD3JMWgZsDLZ%2Fv9NsPRAuPZqO7dR6FojnkO6eAzzjFpt

There are two I see sometimes around York/Rock Hill, SC. One red, one blue, but whenever I see them I'm either on my bike or JT. I give them a thumbs up, but I'm sure they think I'm crazy, haha.

Nope, no airbags, but I’ve seen them added with a 97+ XJ conversion.

These are pretty awesome. I'd love to take an old 231 TC chain and some kind of backing plate, and put a clock in the middle with some custom made numbers.

Is that a casting mark or a crack near the NP gear logo in the first photo?

That bridge looks familiar, where was this?

IMG_0302.HEIC

Forgot Subaru with the Forrester. The price differences between them all are pretty vast, too.

I'm surprised the max tow required an auto back then, I figured the extra gear would be more beneficial on a manual, plus less drivetrain loss. I guess that's asking too much for the little old peugeot.

A squeaky bearing in an accessory pulley? Warm temps allow the grease to lubricate the ball bearings easier? Where was this recorded from, inside the cab? My brothers got a squeak coming from his water pump, but it never goes away, regardless of temp. It DOES go away briefly when you spray some aerokroil just behind the pulley. Where in NC are you?

Were all 8.25s 29 spline by that point?

Your right, the max tow sport S had the 1700 payload and 7650 tow, but my Rubicon is 7422 tow and 1222 payload. All the armor weighs it down alot I'd imagine.

Optioned out I think the Gladiator was 1700, but very formidable for a light pickup for sure. I still can't believe the MJ had a 1 ton option.

3/4 inch t-case drop blocks will make your current cross member compatible with the ax-15, actual ones are hard to come by. This is an old photo, but it somewhat shows how the mount goes:

Mine certainly doesn't have those spacers, the plate is flush with the transmission. It's pushing it up, which could cause a poor driveshaft angle, as well as touching the tunnel as you said. I don't know the thread pitch and bolt length off the top of my head, but I'd say pull one, measure your threads, then measure the spacer thickness. Subtract the thickness of the spacer from the old bolt, buy new and roll with it. Another thing to consider is if the exhaust cross pipe is touching either the cross member or tunnel. If so, that'll cause some vibes too.