Htchevyii

The model code really comes into play for vehicles that they've made forever like the Mustang. Try searching for a part, even if you put in the year you'll get a bunch of messed up results. This doesn't apply to actual parts lookup catalogs, just use year, make and model there. Even my 1989 XJ is very hard to search for without putting XJ in the mix. You get parts for full sized Jeeps, newer Cherokees, Grand Cherokees ETC. At least there aren't a bunch of other vehicles named Comanche out there, and probably never will be another at this point.

That's a great idea!

I just painted the flares and lower panels of the XJ with Raptor thinned 15% with reducer and sprayed through a 1.7 tip HVLP gun. Somewhere on Upol or Raptor's website the had directions for various surface finishes.

My dad has had one of those for as long as I can remember. My 69 Nova tha I got from him still has it on the back window. Thank you for your service!

Oh, I kinda like Chico!

The '89 XJ is in the reassembly stages after paint and I'm, thinking about adding a few period correct decals to the back window. I graduated from high school in '93 and here's the ones that I can remember from the high school parking lot.

It seems like my 88 has randomly done that occasionally for as long as I can remember. On the last trip, it was idling at about 2500+ RPM when I started it. My Nick in Time Design REM showed the throttle position to be 33%, (normal idle is 17%). I popped the hood to check that the throttle wasn't stuck and it was fully closed. I shut it down and started it a few times and it went back to 17%. I'm guessing that I'm blaming my 2 year old Standard IGN TPS is to blame, but it has occasionally done the same thing even before the current TPS was installed, so who knows. I have also done all of Cruiser 54's fixes. If you don't have an REM on a Renix, I highly recommend getting one!

I'm not sure about other states, but the "diesel" is the ticket in CA because you never have to smog them. If you want an engine swap, they are the way to go.

Good luck and have fun! Our longest trip to date is just under 3000 miles.

We got a little trip in before the last cold snap. SW Oregon.

Dreamers

Omni 170 is an epoxy primer. It might be good for preventing rust on clean metal, but wouldn't take the place of the moisture cured urethanes for metal that already has rust. It may make a good topcoat over them, though?

Thanks for watching! We were in the SW corner of Oregon. Inland from Brookings.

We managed to take advantage of some unseasonably warm weather last week and get out in the Comanche. Nothing hardcore, but lots of beautiful scenery with nobody around. We were in SW Oregon, I'm sure that the higher areas that we visited are currently covered in snow since one heck of a cold storm came in this week.

I found a picture of the back of the Standard ds1231. It sure looks like it's the same?

That looks a lot better that the Walker POS.

thanks, I was unable to find that information anywhere and most sellers on eBay seem to be unaware. I guess I'd better take a closer look at things.

Its a 4 dr. I was wondering if it actually wouldn't work or was just a different color or trim. Mine is chrome and the replacements that I see listed for 91+ are black. I guess I'll order one and see. Maybe I can even pop the new switches into the old housing?

I've used POR15, Master Series, Rust Bullet and Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator. Without doing scientific testing, there was no clear winner. I used POR15 on my 1969 Nova 25 years ago and it's still good. It seems to have the hardest finish out of all of them, bad if you plan on sanding it, but maybe otherwise good? POR will also peel if surface prep isn't correct. Master Series and Rust Bullet seemed pretty similar from what I remember. Both of them and the Rust encapsulator can be sanded for top coating easier. I think the rust encapsulator was the thinnest out of all of them. I did like that it is the only one of them that is available in a spray an for hard to reach areas. They all seemed terrific compared to a can of standard spray paint!

I' not sure how many MJ's had power windows, but I'm sure that some of you have XJ's as well. I'm looking for a new master window switch for my 1989 XJ. The new ones are listed as 1991-1996, but look very similar to my 1989 one. Of course, every used one in eBay is listed as 1984-1996, are they in the know or ignorant? thanks!

@brucecooner They all came with the slip yoke where the driveshaft just slips into the transfer case. Unless something has been changed or your truck is lowered, I wouldn't expect a problem there. the later ax15 or NV3550 external slave bell housing will work and had the same crank sensor mount. I got frustrated trying to piece everything together and just ordered the kit from AA. if we had a Pick N Pull type yard, I would have probably watched for something there. I used this kit: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-712590-ir?seid=srese1&ppckw=pmax-jeep&gclid=Cj0KCQiA5rGuBhCnARIsAN11vgS1kJ8YocRAeCo5JikgXRB_9w5Bs9JZukgjbSO3-oGUd5D4u1-jqYgaAjMwEALw_wcB I did not have to drill or tap any holes in my transfer case. Maybe there was an extra hole that was unused with the Peugeot that was used with the AX15, I really can't remember.

Wait, you have an upholstery guy in Humboldt? We have to talk! The only place that I know of is Lantner's and he's usually too busy to act very excited about taking new jobs.

@brucecooner I uses the AA kit, the only difference being that mine had already been ax15 swapped. if it helps, here's my video:

Wow! I only had one go bad since 1992. It was a LUK with 10,000 miles on it. That was enough for me to change to the Advance Adapters conversion kit. It's been a very long time since my AX15 swap, but I definitely did not change driveshafts. I did have to change the transfer case input hub to the correct spline. I had to fool around with the transfer case linkage as well, but the Azzy's kit is the way to go

@WranglerMangler, that was actually the first one that I have had fail, but it was enough for me. My dad bought the MJ in 1992 and it's had a few clutch replacements over the years. I'm with ya, the most frustrating part was ending the trip, luckily it was 90% over anyway. I believe that the original aluminum slave/throwout was replaced an about 160,000 miles when I blew up the Peugeot.