Akula69

Hmmm...pretty soon it;ll be embedded up to the frame, (if not already). That'll be real fun to unstick then. :popcorn:

Brent is correct. A three or above and you need to go. Although I wish no ill on anyone, it appears as of this morning it has been shifted further towards the Louisiana/Texas border. We shall see.

Gosh I hope so Chico! :D :cheers:

Went out when I got home from work and tried starting the MJ. As always -- started right up. But ... get this - ALL those diagrams of which relay is which are either wrong, or my MJ is wrong. Having found two conflicting diagrams and descriptions, I took the cowards way out and pulled all four relays, then stuck them back one-by-one until I heard the fuel pump run when I first turned the key. The one that got the fuel pump running was the one all the way to the front. I'll have to do the same thing on the '88 XJ in the morning, after it has had time to bleed off the pressure. That's strange. Mine was where the diagram shows. The only differnce is mine is an auto. Chico - funny, mine are in the order I described, which are different then yours and Eagles...

But that is going to offend the holy order of the oil gazillionairs, and they will hire hitcats to slash your child Peanut!

Your dating your self man.. :roll: :D I'll buy a A beer for the first CC member who know who said that!! :brows: (You don't count Eagle!!) CW Huey P Long.

Ahhh.. you almost have to read all this crapin the FSM. I love RENIX! :redX: Section 14-71 Evidently the O2 sensor relay is normally closed upon start-up, which supplies voltage to the O2 sensor during warm up and initial idle conditions. The MAP sensor and the speed sensor tell the ECU that a pre-determined output has been reached (what pre-determinied output they don't say :hmm: ) the ECU opens the relay (through interruption of its grounding path) and stops the voltage. It doesn't say what causes the ECU to determine an wide open throttle condition is occurring and what triggers the ECU to close the O2 sensor relay again to provide the fuel pump voltage. What I'm getting at here is you might want to consider replacing both the relays, and/or look at the O2 sensor heater (which is the O2 sensor), and/or the MAP sensor, and/or the speed sensor. You say it died when you were approaching the light. Were you accellerating to go through the (green) light when it died?

Eagle - according to the FSM, the relays are (in order from firewall to front of vehicle); Fuel Pump Relay Oxygen Sensor Heater Relay B+ Latch Relay A/C Clutch Relay Page/Section 14-34 EDIT: (and I quote from the FSM 14-71) "...During engine start and wide open throttle conditions the fuel pump relay and the fuel pump ballast resistor are bypassed. During startup, battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the starter relay, and during wide open throttle conditions battery voltage is supplied to the fuel pump through the oxygen sensor heater relay."

Hmmmm... I like ya and all Brent, but can you fist bump like Sheik Obama and his woman can? and, do ya have a consolidated energey plan like the Hilton strumpet does? and, will you give free MJ parts to all your supporters? :cheers:

More like putting it out of it's misery.... :redX:

How long does it have to sit before it'll start on it's own? does it have to totally cool down or just a little while? Have you checked the fuel rail pressure? Could thier be a momentary blockage in the fuel filter or tank? Mine did the same thing..the PO indicated it happened when the engine got hot, and he felt it was a resistor or electrical problem. Naturally he had bunged up the wiring under the hood so it's really hard to tell if that is the case. Given evidence of fuel, I wonder if it could be the camshaft position sensor in the distributor. See this link... http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Cam_Position_Sensor_and_Sync_Pulse_Stator.htm Then again, it might be the ECM itself puking out bad info when it gets hot. I have a couple of spares if you need one.

Yup. Hopefully your wheel puller has the three different size bolts, there should be 6 in the package including a bushing and several washers. It takes the smaller size. Most horn buttons just pull off, hook your fingers under the button and gently pull the edges free. The horn ring is secured by three phillips screws, and the contact surface is under it. Br prepared for it to sound several times during this process (if you have not disconnected the battery or the horns). I almost gave my wife deafness during the process :brows:

Yes, the horn button and the ring must be removed for you to get at the main wheel nut, and the two bolt holes for the puller.

X2 :agree: Probably one of the few non-metric bolts on the truck. It does take a while to get out.

I realize we are trying to collate a thread of the MJ fastener sizes, but I came across several links that are on Pirate 4x4 site that link to Billa Vista's web page. I cannot find the metric equivlant lists, but the standard are: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... 0Sizes.pdf and: http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... nsions.pdf If this is not appropriate please move elsewhere :D

Hmmm...I just haven't got the money to spend yet.. :popcorn:

Alrighty then. Pete, if you aren't worried about the kidney, and want to tow 4500 lbs, and want to save $$$ you can go to army surplus and get a Humvee. The HMMWV model T1097 can carry an internal load of 4400 lbs plus pull a load of 4400 lbs. Of course, there is that kidney issue... Besides, any small Prius that won't get out of the way you can just go over :D

I tried this in the build forum but buried it under other pictures. The PO of this MJ hooked up these two Vacuum tanks and the laid them on the electrical relays under the hood. Now, He led me to believe that the jeep did not have them origionally, and he needed to install them to make the HVAC work properly. He said they were to be installed under the front bumper (but as you can see, he replaced the front clip!). Question is, they don't seem to connect with any of the HVAC equipment...they actually connect in one spot on the manifold, as marked with the green circle. Can anyone advise on thier purpose? The A/C does not work right now (PO used hose clamps on the compressor line :nuts: so it has leaked down). and...does anyone have a vacuum drawing for the Renix 89 4.0? Thanks

Well, mine would not start becasue I did not have the cable from the battery to grounding post attached to the side of the engine. You might want to check your grounds. Yes, I saw that you had checked for spark and had it, but mine had spark at the plugs as well but still would not start - just cranked. And yes I saw you had fuel at the rail, but it may be partially cloged somewhere along the line or might have become clogged while you were trying to start it. Check the pressure at the fuel rail which should be around ~ 40 lb at crank and 32 ~ 35 when running. Pull the last plug in the firing order and see if its fuel fouled.

blank post (for some reason) :roll:

Give me a holler if you need some wrench help

I've talked about it enough, now here's the project thread for my son's MJ. Interior will be replaced with a full gauge set and a new dash/full console. Also, the shift will be moved to the floor and a tilt wheel installed. Red seats that came with it. I have a set of grays that will be recovered. Needs a new headliner. Can anyone tell me (1) what there are for (I know they are vaccum canisters), and (2) where they are supposed to be? The PO said he thought they should be mounted behind the front bumper, and said he needed to hook them up for the truck to run correctly. In the corner see the green circle where the other end connects to the manifold. Finally, I've figured out why the AC won't hold a charge: Today I replaced the valve cover gasket and cleaned up the wiring at the rear (PO must have had 15 plices back there for various trailer hook-ups). More pics as we go along.

Hmmm...dunno about the tire. THe tread separation is something you don't usually see when a tire blows due to sliding sideways. I'd need better picks of the tire to call that one. Of course, you could always run the VIN and call the PO - if he's still alive

mine are all phillips

Alrighty then, my favorate- accident reconstruction. :D 1) Windshield does not appear damaged - unless the PO replaced it after the wreck, that means the hood had to have been either (1) pried up at the scene by ignorant firemen to cut the battery cables and then damaged more when it was completely removed or (2) damaged while being removed later. There is no way that hood could sustain that much damage in a wreck and not at least fracture the windshield. A clue would be cut battery cables and the main catch on the front radiator frame: sheared = firemen. 2) Left rear tire is blown. Most likely the cause of the wreck, or a major factor. However, no roof damage so it did not roll over - can't see if the bags deployed but front end does not have enough damage for that. 3) Rear damage - appears to be from a rear-end collision with another vehicle, but could be from sliding into a fixed object backwards. The two main indentions on the bumper would indicate a set of steel bolsters, or a truck with bumper guards...or a police cruiser shoving it out of the way. 4) Side damage - definately from sliding up on a lower object...I see this mostly on the interstate with the break-away road sign mounts...the sign goes away but the mount digs into the vehicle to stop its momentum. Unfortunately, on lower cars it digs into the side panels. All in all, I'd say the tire blew, driver lost control and hit a sign and several fixed objects...maybe wandered back out into traffic and got rear-ended.