Akula69

OK - here's the deal: I am interested in obtaining some...and I believe folks in the northeast probably have it right about now. If you know what this stuff is, I'd like to hear from you in a PM. I am willing to pay per pound (plus shipping) for someone to send me some, say around 4-5 pounds. :brows: I recently was in Wis. and found that is grows there. For those who don't know what it is, its a plant, and it's legal - you make pies out of it. :D

YGBSM do you drive it?

Well, after a little research (and a phone call to Blataz - thanks sir!) I have dicovered two things: You can re-set the CPS temporarily by unpluging it and then repluging it. Does it work? I have no idea but will let you know :D I need a wire like Eagle's, and I need to ask him how to test a CPS with a multimeter. Otherwise, I drove the beast around the neighborhood (didn't want to get too far away in case I had to push it home...)for over 30 miles today and it would not misbehave. I let it idle for 90 minutes, and although it was somewhat warm it (a) did not stall, and (B) did not overheat. I am still stumped.... :nuts:

Umm. Sorry I forgot to add that as a recently replaced item (by the PO). Is there a way to test it for functionality? The wiring harness mod (to reroute the CPS wires) was also done at the same time, and the plugs are tight.

In reference to the christmas jeep... I6 4.0L Renix 1989. Initally, it starts and runs fine. Will sit and idle for hours (really!) without apparent difficulty except the idle becomes slightly rougher after the first 20 minutes. When I took it on the road yesterday, I had travelled about 8 miles at average speed when the engine just quit. No sounds, no warning lights, just quit. I coasted to the side of the road and waited for about 10 minutes and then attempted re-start, which it immediately did start. I drove for approximately 2 more miles and parked, shutting it down. After about 25 minutes I came back to the vehicle, it immediately re-started, and I drove away. I travelled about two miles and it quit, again without warning. No matter what I tried, it would not start. It would crank fine, and I could clearly hear the fuel pump, but no start. It (and I by default) was towed back home. Later that evening (approximately 3 hours later) I tried to re-start it and it momentarily started but died immediately, and would not re-start. Today, (15 hours later) I went out and the damn thing cranks immediately. I shut it down and put a guage on the fuel rail, getting 40 PSI at crank and 32 PSI while idling. I drove it up and down the street in an approximation of the mileage I travelled yesterday, and it has not faltered. New plugs, new ECM, new coil, new wires, checked ballast, have fuel filter but have not replaced it. The previous owner indicated it would stall like this and not re-start for approximately 10 minutes, then start normally. Does anyone have a suggestion on this one? it really has me stumped.

OK - we'll try this again. The Christmas Jeep: 1989 2wd, 4.0L metric tonne LB. Very little rust with 167K on the body and 57K on engine. Runs well but needs front and rear main seals, etc, etc...we have lots to do! And no, we didn't pay the price on the windshield....more pics to come in the MJ Project thread.

Well shoot, I tried to post the pics of his jeep, but it's not working right now. We'll get them up soon.

Don't really like the Bud products, but I have a friend who owns a 'beverage' distributorship here, and I try to support him.

Sweet - thanks!

I have been searching but cannot find the thread on axle ID. Does anyone know where it went? Thanks

X2 on the aqua net.... We used to raid the dumpster at the old grocrey store and launch (slightly) expired veggies all night long. Eggplant is spectacular!

Damn...I need to drink more Corona

Yes - you are correct...a 1/4 inch bolt holds the pieces together. Thanks!

Well, I've hit another snag on the jeep from hell... Can anyone advise me on how the engine harness comes apart from the interior fuze panel? I have removed the two screws inside but cannot get the wiring halfs to part. I have removed the two plastic pieces on the harness inside the engine compartment (thinking they were some kind of retainer) without success. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found As always, your assistance is appreciated! :cheers:

I like cats, and they evidently like me, because all the stray kittens show up at our house sooner or later. I used to breed dogs, but after moving several times it became a problem. Not that I dislike the barkers, but consider this: Dogs come when you call them, cats just look at you and walk away (Sort of like that cheerleader in 7th grade) Cats are self cleaning. When is the last time your dog didn't stink? Cats poop small. And, they usually bury thier own land mines. Cats will be loving one minute and tear you a new a@$hole the next (sort of like my wife... :redX: ) All in all, most folks don't like cats because they are independent. I perfer that to having someone drooling over me all the time.

Well, look at this direct quote under the donations page: "The Museum does not accept "long-term loans" or "deposits." The Museum only borrows vehicles and objects for specific purposes and limited terms." I read this as they do not own the vehicles at all, they only borrow them and display the ones that reflect the heritage of the Chrysler (Pentastar) Corporation. That would seem to indicate that the vehicles are actually owned by other then the museum. **OR** It could mean they only borrow some items at certain times.

Crud..I have the XJ but the PO took the engine/trans. Got the floor shifter but need the rest (cables and such). I will be replacing the column shifter with a tilt/floor shift model. Got the E-brake handle also but no cables at all. gonna have to scarf them somewhere as well...

I have tried the search feature on the forum with limited success...I either get no responses or 1600 of them :oops: my search feature must be wack... Can anyone find a thread about moving the shift from the column to the floor, and an article about switching from pedal E-brake to the handle one (in the middle like the XJ has)? I would greatly appreciate it.

That is a really nice fish, and kudos again on providing the experience for the little guy.

AAARGGG! In the process of stripping the XJ that came from the pit of hell, I have found the two inner door bolts on the front door hinges will not come free. I have tried PB, Liquid wrench, hammer, cursing, skinned knuckles, more cursing :mad: and heat application. I have also tried to drive the hinge pins out but they are non-cooperative as well. I did remove the front fenders first, and used the holes in the hinge bodies to attempt to loosen them with no success. I'm concerned if I screw with them much more I'll strip the heads. Any ideas? I though about drilling but they look like hardened bolts. I am about to break out the torch and burn them off... :headpop:

Thanks for your answers - this place is great! now, for the next question: if you stay within one model year, I have found that most of the XJ's have the same wiring harness (but different sub-harnesses). Does anyone know if that holds true across the model lines (i.e. XJ and MJ) as thier cabs are fairly similar? I am specifically talking about the in cab harness under the dash. Or - do I have to pull the entire dash out both and switch the harnesses? I am trying to add electric windows/locks from the XJ to the MJ. Thanks Again.

I am stripping a 89 XJ 4x4 and wanted to ask the following: 1) Is the engine computer the same from the XJ to the MJ (MJ is an 89 also). Additionally, does it matter that the MJ is not a 4WD? 2) Does anyone have any experience with removing the electric window assemblys from the XJ doors? On this XJ they seem to have been riveted into the door rather then screwed/bolted...normal? 3) Master/slave cylinder on the XJ (that had antilock) are interchangable with non-antilock MJ units? (they look the same, if that helps). Thanks

I have been to quite a few sites on the 'net that advertise 'reprint' AMC and Chrysler shop manuals for the MJ. Most offer a three manual set, the first two being the actual manuals and the third consisting of addendums and such. Problem is, all I have found have been for the 86-87-88 years, and I have a 89. Are they still applicable or are the 89 shop manuals not available any longer? Thanks.

I dunno about that - after a while wouldn't the acid eat the lead plates away? after all, the electricty is produced by a reaction between the lead and the acid.

Yeah -- that is it but you do not need the fancy riveter they talk about - just drill the holes where the plate indicates but slightly smaller then the wafer bolt, then tap it and insert two more wafer bolts. it is listed for 1992 to 1997 but works fine on my 1987.... :brows: