Akula69

LOL - I forgot all about that! It's funny you mentioned it because I just got a box from my father with nothing but a full gallon baggie in it. I opened the box in the early morning (when it was still dark) and muttered "what the hell?" before I realized what he'd done. It would be great if you did that....just let me know what I owe you. :cheers:

Yup. Hes quick-draw tonight. :D Now I just have to find some.

Thanks! :D

I believe that I have figured out that you cannot use the back door door checks (from and XJ) in the front door. However, is it possible to flip the passenger side door check to make it work on the drivers side? Thanks Jake

Not really sure - Don's the guage expert around here...but just for grins and giggles I went out and unpluged mine and started her up....mine needle never moved off the bottom peg (when it usually jumps up to 65-70 when cold).

While not on the scale of SWII, I pushed it out to the clients on the network here without any problem. I advise installing it.

Yeah, I plan on looking over the existing one before I make the decision to pull it, and repairing/replacing seals if they appear to be the culprit. The other problem is the fluid that remains is brown and burnt smelling as well... :roll: I also remembered (when I was trying to sleep last night) that I recently replaced the radiator and need to check the cooling line connections. I looked at the JR AW4 yesterday and it has pink fluid and no apparent leaks. Best part...he's selling it for $100.00 with the cables, slip yolk, NSS, and torque converter/bell housing. I believe even if I don't use it it's still a good deal just for the parts

Where is it leaking from? Is the case cracked? Willy I cannot tell where the fluid is coming from. I have douched the underbody clean of oil and still can't tell. All I know is that I have to add two quarts of trans fluid a month. The case is not cracked, as far as I can tell.

I apologize - my only reason for mentioning the 4WD tranmission was because they have one and I didn't know if it made a difference (in the spline count). I am going to go from a 2WD AW4 to the same. I just seem to keep seeing references to various spline counts and wanted to see if there was a quick and dirty (pardon the pun) way of making sure I was buying the right one.

As far as the oil drain...removing the full oil filter must have been great fun. As far as the cheater bar, I imagine it would depend on whether the adapter was on the engine at the torque it is supposed to be. Mine had never been removed since new.

There are lots of great articles on here about doing the rear main without removing the transmission. Although 87commanche indicated he was able to accomplish the O-ring replacement without draining the oil, I would imagine draining it would be neater, and would be absolutely necessary to do the rear main seal. Most of the articles I have read suggest draining the oil the night before and letting the remaining oil drip out all night, as you will be oily when the oil pan is removed to access the crank caps. Good luck!

Ok, here goes: The daughter's XJ is a 94 2WD, and the AW4 that is currently out of the donor is a 96 AW4 - the donor vehicle was a 2WD. I am going to look at this unit today. The second donor still has the AW4 installed, it is an 89 4WD XJ. Don - thanks for your post but it kinda points out my question....is there any way to tell the output spline count without actually removing the transmission? I know they have ID plates on them, but of course it is mounted in a hard to see place :roll: Thanks

I had to edit my first post...the used one I can buy is from a 2WD XJ, and would be going into a 2WD XJ. They have another that is currently mounted in a 4WD XJ but they do not know the count on that one.

Well, it appears that I will have to replace/rebuild an AW4 transmission soon. I have access to a 1996 2WD AW4 with about 100K on the clock. The fluid looks good and the only problem is I am confused about the spline issue. I have been told this particular transmission has a 21 spline shaft. (I am assuming the spline count is on the shaft that is on the engine side of the transmission). Does anyone have a listing of what spline counts went in what years? I have been told that the AW4 was used in the XJ and MJ from 1987 until 2001 but are they all the same spline count? If not, why would some be different? As the vehicle is currently moving but leaking, I'd rather not pull the existing one yet and disable the thing just to count how many splines the existing transmission has. Thanks in advance

Man - that thing is cherry! It never ceases to amaze me on how simple the engines were back then...you could almost climb up in the compartment with the engine and close the hood....

Christ - didn't we discuss this already? However, I'm not suprised with the poll results considering the liberal bent of the country at this point :roll: Anyone who is inclned to research this will easily find that marijuana is more harmful to the human body then cigarettes are, not withstanding the lead poisoning Eagle's buddies got in Vietnam.

I can measure the old ones, but I'd hesitate to use just 'any old O ring" as the pressure and heat there might casuse premature failure. The new rings also seemed larger in diameter then regular rings. I'll measure them tonight and post tomorrow

Finally finished the housing overhaul and O ring replacement today. This is one of the common places our I6 engines loves to leak from, and once you get the adapter off it's a easy repair. I would have posted pictures of the actual work, but everything was oily and, well, I couldn't turn on the camera because of it. Anyway some tips for the ones who are going to do this job: 1) Jack up the jeep - high. Use jack stands under the rail. 2) Drain the oil and remove the filter. 3) Remove the positive starter wire and it's hold down bracket from the side of the block - it's in the way and probably oily anyway. Remove the oil pressure sensor wire and sensor. 4) Note the left frame rail is in the way and a rachet and socket will not fit to remove the adapter. I used a Great Neck T-60 3/8 inch socket with a 12MM racheting combination wrench. (Some articles about this suggest an S&K socket that has an allen screw holding the bit in - you can remove the socket body leaving the bit, but that socket lists for $21.00 - Great Neck socket was $3.49). 5) Put the combination wrench over the socket like this: and then slide on a 'cheater bar' - I used 1 1/4 inch galvanized pipe with a 12'" section and an 8" section. 6) Seat the socket in the flat head screw and.....loosen it. Loosening the flat head screw that holds the adapter on is a task. At one point I was up under the Jeep with one foot braced on the cheater bar and the other on the axle. When it finally came free it released with an audible snapping sound (I about crapped my pants thinking I'd snapped the screw!). Once loosened it should turn out by hand. The block has a pin that aligns the filter adaper in the correct position. Note that pin's location on the adaper for when you re-install it. 7) Clean everything well, including the mating face on the block. Be prepared to take a bath in oil droplets! 8 ) Although you can get O ring sets from your local auto parts store, I got them at Mopar Online parts for $3.49 (shipping was $8.90 - go figure!). The rings should be lubricated with clean oil before install, and be careful you don't nick them when you roll the two smaller ones over the flat head screw. 9) Re-install the adaper and filter, then add engine oil. 10) Check for leaks. Hope this helps and Good Luck! :D

Guess you mean the steering knuckle, si? Image Not Found Si Senor! The small stub axle you see in the center of the picture actually comes out of there with the hub on mine.

X2 :agree:

Well, Its funny you'd ask that, 'cause I posted a thread here asking about that and no one except Don answerd. There is some confusion about the hub pat numbers, but after research I did get the right ones.

Don - yeah it's a 2WD MJ, and it has the little (what I would consider useless) stub shaft that installs in the center of it. The Timkin bearing brand was 119.29 each, and is usually the brand I will use (had bad bearing experience before). I replaced the hubs because I was getting a soft grinding noise from them when I'd turn the wheels while it was up on jack stands. At that time I checked the calipers and found the shoes to be OK but needing replacement soon, so in the process of elimination I removed them and the caliper...and the grinding was still present. I cannot reporduce the sound when I put the stands back under the front and spin the wheels....and it only seems tro occur in 1st gear with the jeep on the ground (i.e has weight on it). I'm gonna suspend the whole thing on stands and run it. Hopefully that'll tell me if it's in the drive train or not . Of course, any advice is gladly accepted :D

Jake Lehman 89 LWB 2WD that I share (temporarily) with my Son. Work for the Covington Police Department Covington, La.

Ok - I found it in the 94FSM....they are to be torqued at 175 ft/lbs. That's too bad 'cause 175 is really, really tight (think: bull's a$$ at fly time), so the noise must be coming from somewhere else. Anyone rebuilt a AW4 in here? :roll:

X2 :agree: