Gjeep

I’ve never looked at adapting the manual regulator to the full window. My guess is an adapter plate can be used to bolt up the full window. The Beijing XJ never had a manual option on the 2500 model. I could be wrong but I think the older XJ/MJ had a single attaching point on the regulator to the window. I will say I also cut the front window channel support bracket off a 97+ XJ from both the driver and passenger door for full window channel support of the larger window. The channel extends to the speaker opening but doesn’t interfere. It’s not necessary but I though it was a good idea.

Without absolutely any modification to anything, you can run the new glass, chinese regulators, and original door panels. Regulators mount in the same exact holes as 84-96 XJ/MJ's. You can run the 97+ XJ regulators in the old doors with some spacing/ shimming, but having owned/ owning a '01 XJ I can tell you those regulators are crap. Believe it or not the Chinese regulators are made in Japan and are all metal, cabling and all. Very nice quality. Not sure how easy these are to get though as I purchased them back in 2005 from a Chinese exporter. You will need to make a very simple adapter plate from the Chinese regulator tabs to the 97+ glass as the glass holes are placed differently.

My Stroker motor runs hot (meaning at a stop light I typically need to shut it down before the temp gauge hits the zone)...and I've been working to reduce the engine temps without cutting a 24" hole on each side of the hood. Hornbrod mentioned his Hesco motor ran hot like this for the first 1000 miles or so. Since I'm running the Hesco hi-flow water pump, I've slowed down the flow of coolant using a restrictor from SpeedWay motors. https://www.speedwaymotors.com/Water-Flow-Restrictor-1-5-8-Inch,6540.html I also poured in a bottle of Lucas' Super Coolant after reading many positive reviews on the internet. I was a bit doubtful of it actually working but thought I'd give it a try. The combination of this and the restrictor installed led to a true 10 degree reduction in engine temperature...I was shocked. I'm consistently idling at 220 degrees. (I couldn't idle for more than 5-7 mins before without needing to shut it down). Eager to try it out on the road. In the mean time, I've repaired the small rust holes on my floorboard and have sealed them up. Next I'll follow up with some POR15 for good measure. The new carpet has been Scotchguarded and will go in after some sound matting is installed. After that, I have some other interior projects to wrap up...which includes an improved (looks-wise) overhead console, new speakers (with modified deeper factory speaker grills), new switch pod label install, new door-to-body seals, Steadfast steering column security collar, and 97+ XJ window installation with Beijing XJ regulators. (Beijing power window regulators are for a full 97+ XJ window and their regulators are a direct drop-in for 84-96 XJ/ MJ inner door sheet metal).

I worked a bit on the interior floorboard today prepping for POR15...As I wire brushed the floor I was surprised to see that I do in fact have a couple of small rust holes where I can see ground on the passenger side. (Photo make them look larger than they are for some reason). Need to fix it before I seal and line the floorboard...

A rare find, but pricey. https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-Jeep-Passengers-Side-Window-Regulator-XJ-Cherokee-MJ-Comanche-86-92-55154522/332774985473?hash=item4d7aef4f01:g:WrQAAOSwqj9bfHr4:rk:12:pf:0

It would have to pass smog in CA. I believe 1973 is the cut off.

Currently in Beverly Hills CA and just saw 6 heavily disguised Gladiator pickups driving around. If I was quicker I would have snapped a pic! They’re all cab. Very disproportionate.

I spoke to the estate broker and apparently someone was coming by to look at it and very interested. No idea if that is true or not. They also don’t know the last time it started but believe it has been sitting for a good 5 years.

I've been scratching my head about a rear sway bar for my MJ. The TrailBlazer option works great for a D35, but the 44's pumpkin isn't centered and that option sway bar looks off to me. I took a chance grabbing a 3/4" TJ factory rear sway bar to see how it would mount up. Just held it up over the rear differential/ frame this morning and it's going to fit great (possibly with different endlinks or endlinks mounted on the outside of the bar). With this bar, the arms extend in the forward direction (towards the front of the truck) versus rearward as the TrailBlazer bar does. This prevents the issue of fitting a larger spare tire. (Originally I was running 235/70R15's and that size tire would not get under my truck well, so I opted to get a slightly smaller spare at that time that did not contact the bar). Steinjager makes an aftermarket 1" rear bar that fits the bill. I've just ordered it and it will be here next week some time and I'll do a write up.

I don't think there was a difference in the 44 throughout the years? Could be wrong. Mine was out of an '89 MJ.

I took a peek at my TeraFlex pdf and for the D44 kit it says backing plates are part#'s 86211 and 86212. (You mentioned 86311 and 86312...and I'm thinking these may be for the D35). It's worth double checking. Also, I found this on Amazon and it looks like they are for the at least the D35, possibly the D44? ...as one of the reviews says it was put on a ZJ D44 rear axle. Not clear which. I am doing a little research to confirm. https://www.amazon.com/Crown-Automotive-4762128-29K-Hardware/dp/B00I7ERHIE/ref=asc_df_B00I7ERHIE/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312712394155&hvpos=1o4&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5737560112073037969&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9032154&hvtargid=pla-599105888604&psc=1

Yep, I bought 2 from that guy as well about the same time as you did. Same as yours. He is still making the black plastic ones as I recently purchased another that I was going to chrome pen paint it. Options...I like to have options.

Final posting for the night...got these yesterday from ebay. I think Hornbrod is running something similar. Mine is a 2 piece emblem -- the 4.6 and the 'stroker' badge. Don't think I'm going to put these on until after the paint job in the spring, but looking forward to it. (If anyone is looking at these as well, know there is a seller selling a 4" stroker badge and a 5" badge...the 5" is the one to get as it matches the width of the numeric.

Didn't have much time to work on the MJ today, but got a couple things done towards reviving the interior...Pulled out the bench seat (I have kids that I transport to school), all the interior panels, and carpet. I knew the seams of the floorboard were letting water in for at least 3 years as the carpet was getting damp. I tested and confirmed today it wasn't the antenna grommet or windshield, but the floorboard. Water came right in. Pulled the carpet back and that dreadful plastic bagged heat shield had held the water against the metal floor. The photo makes it look works that it is. The majority of the 'orange' wiped up with brake cleaner. There we a few crusts of metal that came up, but the floor is solid. And there was absolutely no rust or wet under the rubber mat that is behind the dashboard/ firewall. Going to seam-seal and then POR-15 the hell out of it, especially since I have new carpet going in. While I had access to the Hurst shifter I popped it off. It's always been a real pain in the @$$ to access one of those 12mm bolts, so I tool the opportunity to trim a small piece of floor board for access. Will touch it up and make sure the cover plate is sealed nice and tight with butyl tape. Had a feeling I should have swapped out that little gasket that came with the new AX-15 that sits between the top of the trans and the shifter...this was the source of the minor transmission leak. Also figured out my parking brake issue... the aftermarket cables were not the same length though they were in a box each with the proper part number. Wish there was NOS available for these as I probably wouldn't have had this issue. Lesson learned...confirm the length of identical part numbered items before installing and Raybestos is an idiot. ;)

I routed my oxygen sensor wiring straight down from factory location with hesco relocated CPS wiring. Wanted to keep it neat and far from the header.

ZJ was still too short for my comfort/ wire routing so I ditched the connector extension I made and got a 24” pigtail from the wrecking yard and neatly crimped it on (I read a couple places on line that soldering an oxygen sensor wire added resistance similar to the connector extension I made). Anyways, I crimped the pigtail extension on and plugged in a new XJ oxygen sensor. Flashed the PCM and life was good.

Here she stands just prior to test drive #2 (that's my neighbors Dakota in the background)...and yes, that is electrical tape on the front fender/ door as I have the bolts out installing my radio antenna. Old tires for now too. Success! Drove it about 45 mins around the block and then the local expressway taking it up to 70 mph. Runs very smooth now that I reset the PCM according to Hornbrod's notes and replaced a bad Mopar oxygen sensor and front wheel bearing. The idle was a bit rough at first, but smoothed out to just about factory after the go-around. Had my 12 year old tinkerer beside me with an iphone stop watch app doing 0-60 timing. Only gave it about 3/4 throttle for the sake of break in and best time was 8.4 seconds. Have a feeling can get it under 8. Will see on a drag strip after about 1000 miles break in. Still a few issues to resolve -- parking brake adjustment, transmission leak at the topside mating surface of the shifter to the AX-15. Moving on to interior refresh. Will start with floorboard seam-sealing, new carpet, radio, speakers, etc...Will then button-up the dashboard switch pods and general wiring clean up.

And a thanksgiving gift to the MJ -- Just picked this up from the local chrome plating shop. Chrome transfer case straight arm shifter to match the AX-15 Hurst short throw arm.

Found the issue yesterday...but haven't had time to fix it yet. I put the MJ on jackstands and turned all the tires individually to hear if it was hub/ bearing related. The driver's side front sounded like there were metal marbles in it scraping away. I pulled the tire off and found half of the hub studs had fallen out of the hub. This was a brand new Mopar hub. I had tightened all of the lug nuts to 90 ft/lbs and there was no spinning of cracking noise, but when I removed the tire yesterday 1 of the 5 had broken, and then 2 more at the time of removal broke/ fell into the abyss behind the hub. This all occurred at my initial test drive after about 1000 ft of driving at 15-20mph. Very lucky it happened then and not at freeway speeds. I 'll be replacing the hub at some point this weekend and will have another test drive.

Found this video on youtube with an XJ that makes the same sound as my truck is...Unfortunately the person never posted a resolution. Have a listen, and let me know if you are familiar with what might be the cause of the noise. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=6B2ry3AqK1Y

Nope, check engine light isn’t on.

Found this video on YouTube. Sound is just about identical to mine.

Thought it might have been the rear TeraFlex parking brake, driver's side, dragging as the lever still sticks after greasing so I disconnected that side. Need to pull it part, but wasn't the noise. Noise starts to happen around temp 150* but it could be anything drivetrain even as it heats up as it goes. Going to put the truck on jackstands later this afternoon and see if it happens when the truck is in the air. and "driving". Also, it bucks like a bronco at temp and idle is all over the place and then gets low. It's about 40* out. I could see behind the trans coverplate and there is nothing scraping on it.

I need to call hesco. No idea what they put in it but guessing it’s 195

That wasn't the clutch at 22 seconds. If anything it was me shutting the truck off/ down.