hitman72

Just an idea, what about Commander (i know it my be a bit long for a dog's name) but then he would be the "Commander-in-Chief" haha.

Hornbrod, sorry did not read that last sentence thanks.

So as of now all I have found is that where the exhaust pipe meets the manifold is very loose. I have yet to resolve this but could it be part of my problem? Also is there anyway to test the o2 sender or should I just replace it?

So in the morning when I get in the truck and start it up it runs great (starts slower the colder it is, as to be expected). Then however, after less then 60 seconds of running I go to pull out of the driveway. In gear, little bit of throttle, I engage the clutch and pack out the 15 feet. Then when i push the clutch back in and let my foot off the throttle it dies. When I let it set and warm-up 5 min I have no problem (as is my normal protocol but can't always). Am guessing that it has something to do with the fuel system as if it starts to die and I catch it soon enough I can give it gas and save it. Please excuse typos posted with my phone.

I when I was thinking about it in my head I thought there was a hole where it came into the box. But then once you said that I realized it would just mean more air openings in the box....... Long story short a brain fart.... haha

Roger thanks. So it can be removed? I guess I would need a new air box.....

How much to get the D44 3.55 to CA? Haha I am thinking it would not be worth it lol!

Wait a second, I am not looking at the truck at the moment but i would swear that I have a hose coming from the manifold to air box (looks to be a metal corrugated pipe, like a small dryer vent pipe) and there is a valve mounted in the side of the air box. Am i completely wrong, is this another system i am looking at?

especially if you have a droid device (cell phone of tablet) with a gmail account. My tablet, phone, and computer are all linked together through chrome (and my google account) and it is sweet.

:agree:

The first one is a home page of some excellent Jeep stuff, and the second is specifically Renix. Answers to your EGR questions are here. http://www.lunghd.com/On_Site_Tech.htm http://www.lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Engine/Basic_Sensors_Diagnostics.htm Thanks you, will give it a read later. Also found some in the DIY write up section.

sorry to be a little off topic but, is there a good write up on how to make sure your EGR system is working properly. Cause I don't really know how it works (i get the idea) and have no idea if it is working properly. thanks

You have to remember that the operating range of a radio system (all the different users) is limited by the weakest radio. There is no point in spending a bunch of money on a radio that makes the hair on your peaches stand up :???: when the person you are trying to reach has a cheap one that can only broadcast a faction of the distance. So i say look at what the guys you wheel with have and then go from there.

The biggest helper when doing this (and it may be on thread, not sure) is to release the speedometer cable from where it is held onto the underside of the truck. This makes it 10 times easier.

You are right sorry. I was just looking at the CAD write up page. I did not realize it engaged both front wheels.....? Thought it was just the passenger side. So if the CAD does not engage the truck is still in 2x4? I know this is getting off original topic but i feel it has run its course. haha

regardless of the CAD lock the drivers side tire should always be connected to the drive shaft correct? So really with the CAD lock disengaged you could just lift the drivers side off the ground and spin it?

ya its kind of a redneck way to do it but it works.

I was just thinking you (and i have heard it before) but you should be able to lift the front tires off the ground and spin the drive shaft with your hand. Count the turns it takes to move the tires around once. I imagine that it would be hard to tell the difference between rather close sets of gears but........ its something haha

Sweet thanks. Now I hope I can find it lol.

So i took out the buzzer that goes off when you turn the key on and also the one that buzzes when you leave the lights on. Now I have managed to leave the lights on a few different time (only once drying the battery). Is there a way I can get it to buzz for the lights but not for the key?

I do believe to that on my new cluster it had a sticker on it with the year it was used, not 100% tho.

No. To be safe, 1988 through 1990, not "pre" 90. The earlier XJs and MJs used a different speedo cable attachment. Unless you want to also change the speedo cable, you can't use the cluster from an 84-86 in a 1988 vehicle. Also, the 88 and up have a potentiometer that allows setting the tachometer for 6-cylinders or 4 cylinders, so it doesn't matter what engine was in the donor vehicle. The early tachometers don't have this adjustment. You'll notice that I have carefully avoided mention of 1987. That's because, even though I have both an 87 MJ and an 87 XJ, I have never pulled the cluster out of either one and I don't know if the 87 used the arly style speedo and tach, or the late style speedo and tach. Does the highlighted part answer your question?

So it looks like 3.55 are the way to go. Any thing to watch out for when finding a doner? years to stay away from or all all of them pretty much plug and play? What about the Dana 44 rear? I know getting the gears would not be hard but doing to whole axle plug and play will not be easy to find.

I am liking the idea of just swapping out the axles and not having to deal with all the re-gearing. So what years and what do i need to look for to get ones with 3.55. and is there any year that would have 4.11 from the factory?

don't know off the top of my head but there should be an identification tag on the axle that has that info on it. But the ultimate way to tell is count the teeth on ring and divide it by the number of teeth on the pinion.