johnnyc

My buddy tried to eyeball the problem as I rocked the tire, but couldn't see or feel anything wrong. I thought maybe it was a bad unit bearing, but I tried putting on a different one with the same result.

Firstly, I've searched all over for the answer, but haven't been successful. After lowering the lift on my truck from six inches to three inches, there has been something amiss in the front end. It can best be described as a slight clunk that is most noticeable when the truck hits a bump. It feels like a loose suspension bolt, but everything is tight. Yesterday, I jacked up the left front tire and when I grab the tire at the 3:00 and 9:00 positions, there is a slight movement which I'm pretty sure is my problem. I believe if there is movement with your hands at the 12:00 and 6:00 positions, that would suggest worn ball joints. But what would cause movement at the 9:00 and 3:00 positions? And this is only on the left front tire. There is no movement on the right front tire.

Another white MJ with Moabs. I also like the Ravines, Turbines, and XJ Icons. But I found a nice set of Moabs first.

Am I the only one who wants to see a picture? ;) Congratudolences Jim.

Yes, the lower shock mounts on a SUA MJ are on the u-bolt plates. When I did mine, I didn't have the original plates with the shock mounts. I went to a junkyard and pulled some off of a a Chevy S-10.

I just did the same thing. But I got a different MJ D44 and put that in. No you can't just flip it and run it. You'll have to cut off the perches and weld new ones in the proper position. Just be aware that SUA perches are shorter than SOA perches. There are some companies that sell specific SUA perches. I think that Ruffstuff does.

In the front, I removed the ACOS and left in my old 3.5" RE coils. That's why I'm guessing three inches. They're old coils. In the back, I went back to spring under, added metric ton leafs and Teraflex 1.5" XJ shackles, which give about one inch on an MJ.

That IS lowered, Don. It was at about six inches of lift with 285/75/16 Now it's about three inches of lift with 245/75/16 tires. It's funny getting out of the truck now. My foot hits the ground much sooner than I'm used to.

Got everything buttoned up and drove it around. Everything seems to be good. I was wondering why the ride was a little stiff. Checked the tire pressure and all four tires were at 70 psi! Put them back to 35 psi and it rides very smoothly now. Stopped by the nearby Comanche produce market to take this pic.

97-01 XJ, which is what the OP is asking about. That was the main reason I swapped doors for the newer ones. With the early doors, the glass is so small. You can't lay your arm on the sill and the vertical piece of the wing window is smack dab in the middle of your view in the side mirror. It's nice having the full size window opening.

That was me in JP. But the wiring was a nightmare. So I converted back to manual windows.

You can see in my pictures that the top of the flares is at the body line. So a couple of inches, maybe. You can look at them next weekend in Big Bear. What is the distance in the rear between the upper and lower shock mounts? Let me know how old they are and how much you want for them.

I used the thinner ones. No leaks.

I just put new shafts in my D44. I used the Teraflex spacers and tack welded them to the retaining plate, so the spacer can't move.

A rally car mechanic friend of mine recommended that I use some barb fittings and FC300 hose, which has a more puncture resistant casing. The FC300 hose is not intended to be used with barb fittings, but he says it'll work fine since the pressure is minimal.

Well, it looks like I'm finally almost roadworthy. Just have to replace the rear pinion seal this week and I'll be rolling, albeit only in 2WD. Yet to come is regearing a D30 I have in the yard and my D44 to 4.10s. I did have to get my rear driveshaft shortened a bit. And I'd still like to get some Bilstein 5100s. And of course, paint. The front looks a little funky since I had enlarged the fenders and raised the flares up a bit. Looks like I'll be on the lookout for some uncut fenders.

One heater hose is 5/8" and the other is 11/16". If you can't find 11/16" hose, you can finagle 5/8" hose on there, or use 3/4" hose and double clamps.

But did they fit without modification? Or do you have a D44 from a TJ? The flange bolt pattern is different between a TJ D44 and an XJ/MJ D44. That's how I ended up with two pair of the TJ axle seal retainers. I bought a new set of alloy shafts and the wrong retainer plates were in the box.

If you want a couple of the TJ Rubicon axle seal retainers, I have some new ones that you can have for free. You'll have to weld up the holes and redrill to fit an XJ/MJ Dana 44. I ended up using the Teraflex spacers with the factory retainers.

Why do y'all say the conversion is a hassle on the D44? I've put ZJ disc brakes on an 8.25 and now have Explorer disc brakes on my D44. Equally easy to do.

The LED bulbs are not obnoxiously bright. I also put LED bulbs in for the turn indicators and they are bright, even in the daylight. I mentioned in another thread that this helps you notice when you leave your turn signal on.

Once it gets dark outside, I'll go take a pic of my cluster with LED bulbs.

In my 92, it took the 194/168 bulbs. Don't know about the Renix era models. Best thing to do is take the cluster out and see what bulbs are in there. I bought my LED bulbs online and they're very inexpensive. And no, the LED bulbs can not be dimmed with the switch.

You can get a louder one at any parts store. But what I did was install LED bulbs in my gauge cluster, including the ones for the turn indicators. They are really bright, even in the daytime. So if you leave them on, they definitely catch your attention.

Well, I finally got around to lowering the truck. Did the rear yesterday and the front today. And boy, is my old body hurting. Sucks getting old. :) It's still not driveable yet. I have to adjust the front pinion angle, adjust the track bar, adjust the ACOS to bring the front up a bit, refill the rear axle, and install the driveshafts. I also have to get some new front shocks. I only have about an inch before they bottom out. Anyway, here's a teaser pic.