Jerry

Useful info! Thanks :wrench: I was searching for a link someone posted here to another site showing detailed instructions with photos on the methods for testing all the different 4.0L engine ignition system sensors. Can anyone point me in the right direction? TIA :)

:thumbsup: jeepcoma

Great! Thanks guys, especially Cruiser for that detailed test method. So where is my CPS located then? Is it easy to get at and replace? Photo possibly? Thanks again :thumbsup: ComancheClub is the best most helpful place! :wrench:

Looking for more advice please for my ailing red truck :) Last night it was fine, come this morning, stone dead just wouldn't fire. I checked for a spark and there was none at all, not even a week one. The battery is tiptop and bursting with life, spins the motor like a good'n. So I took the car instead and tried starting the truck again later. Brrrrum! Started right off! WTF? :dunno: It runs well otherwise. Not perfect but reasonably smooth. Any pointers on where I could start looking for this fault? It's done the same thing once before and it wasn't sub zero and icy so I'm ruling out a temperature related problem as is often the case up here in the Great White. I checked the coil and the HT wires with a multimeter and they are fine. Shame cos that would be an easy fix! Are there any ignition components or sensors that might randomly crap out like that, then just start working again? Like I said, yesterday fine this morning nothing. I didn't even look at it in between so I don't think vibration is an issue or moisture cos no rain. I'm befuddled :hmm: A great big TIA! :thumbsup:

Mystery symptoms, oh good, not just me then :hmm: It's all your fault Shawn! ;) Making me go out and buy another truck! :D Had the diff cover off, all looking good in there, nothing loose or worn and no metal filings in the old lube, fresh lube and back on again. It does it on and off at low speed and continuously and with more noise at 50mph+ I can also get it to start by steering to the right aggressively, again pointing to the left side which is the recently replaced bearing. I've pulled and pushed and rocked and rotated everything and it's all good. No movement in the bearings and they rotate smoothly. I've experimented taking the wheel spacers on and off and the noise gets worse with them on again suggesting something rear axle related. Buggered if I know what though! :dunno: Looks like I'm going to have to keep driving as is and wait until whatever it is fails Thanks all for the suggestions :cheers: edit: Anyone know what a bent axle shaft would sound like?

Took off the drive shaft and it's not that either! Looks like it has to be something in that damn axle. What a PIA having just spent a pile I can't afford getting it repaired! :(

Thanks Don, very helpful :thumbsup:

So the axle shaft is held in place just by the bearing being pressed in? And the fail safe to stop the wheel falling of if the bearing breaks up is the brake backing plate? :cheers:

Yeah the axle was the last work done but I took it off to get it done so I went through the brakes while it was off and cleaned everything. Also I had to unhook the prop shaft. I just tried the brand new brake drums from my other truck and same nose :wall: now I'm going to take the prop shaft off. If that ain't it then it has to be something in the axle! :cry: Cross fingers it's the prop shaft UJ's! When an axle bearing is replaced does the diff cover need to be removed? :cheers: Edit: Oh yeah! No it's not a traclock. Opposite wheel turns the opposite way :thumbsup:

OK so the oil level is good and there's no signs of leaks anywhere around where the axle shaft exits the axle body. I've checked for slack in the bearings by grabbing the wheels and they seem fine with no lateral or up and down movement. With the wheels off I've rotated the axles to feel for anything odd and it all feels nice and smooth with just the tiniest(!) amount of slack between input and output on the gears which I'd expect. I don't think I have a tracloc? Just a standard D35. How do I tell? TIA :cheers:

Cool thanks for the replies. Yes, think I did mean axle bearing. It's the bearing in behind the rear wheel on the axle. Oh, and it's a dana 35. Does the diff cover have be taken off to get the axle shaft out to replace the bearing? If so, is there anything the bearing mechanic could have forgotten to put back in that might cause any problems? Like missing shims. I'll try taking off the prop shaft and see what happens as the next step. I don't like this truck anymore! I fix one thing and something else immediately breaks :wall: Think I'll move back into my trusty blue one that likes to work

Hey guys :wrench: Can I do this without damaging anything? I'm trying to locate whatever is causing the drumming noise that's driving me crazy! :fs1: Thought I could try this to eliminate the prop shaft as the offending item. I recently had the LH rear wheel bearing replaced and everything was fine for about 100 miles, then this infuriating noise started. It sounds like an out of round rear drum but the drums are good. I backed off the brake shoe adjustment today so they're not touching the drums unless I brake. No difference! :cry: the noise doesn't go away when I brake either. I've tried different wheels n tires. I've looked at everything external in the drive train so now I'm thinking prop shaft or half shaft or something in the rear diff. Is there anything that could have started making an off beat drumming noise after the new bearing bedded in? Sometimes it sounds like it's at wheel rotation speed and other times it's more off beat- da dumdum da dumdum da dumdum. Also it only starts above 45mph. I'm desperate for ideas, appreciate any suggestions on things to check cos I've run out of ideas! Sorry about the lengthy description TIA :thumbsup:

The 'Open' and 'Closed' system title makes it sound loads more complicated than it actually is. It should be called 'normal system with radiator cap' and 'kooky, unreliable, leak & overheat prone system' :D Converting to an 'open' or 'normal' system simply means junking the pressurized expansion container (passenger side at back of engine bay). This in turn means you now need to modify the pipework, get a radiator with a cap or add a pressure cap somewhere else in the system, like the upper hose. FWIW I re-used the old pressure bottle for my new expansion/catch tank and modified the existing heater pipework to re-use the existing heater control valve. Forum wisdom says that if you're going for an ally radiator, a two row will be more than enough cooling, better even than a three row copper(?) rad. Hope that helps a bit :wrench:

Tape might be worth a try 'if you get desperate'. FWIW, I used some tape to cover a hole in the plastic guard in the wheel front arch, it's been there since fall 2010, it's not peeling off yet and the winter gets pretty messy here. It won't work unless you clean the area to be covered properly first though :cheers:

Spray this on any exposed metal Then stop water entering by covering the holes with this :thumbsup: Don't buy 'Duck Tape' though, it's useless get 3M instead.

Nice! :yes: What was the bid on this one? Image Not Found

By the gallon during the hot weather :cheers: And moving onto this as the weather cools down

As I understand it there are issues with the firewall too. It needs to be modified to fit a 4.0L. There is another option for you which is replacing your 2.8L block and heads with a Camaro(?) 60 degree 3.4L. All the ancillaries from the 2.8L will swap to the 3.4L. No firewall, wiring or radiator mods. Please correct if I'm wrong, just repeating info I read here before :wrench:

Is the rear brake load sensor valve still in your system? Could it be that your passenger side rear brake is not working right or not adjusted right and because the proportioning valve is giving max pressure your driver side is locking?

Nice pics, what a landscape! :thumbsup:

Any old engine degreaser, I use gunk citrus cos it smells nice :thumbsup:

Great, that's what I hoped. Thanks guys

Hi all :wrench: As title, my rear diff is getting warm after highway driving with no load on. Not hot, just pleasantly warm to touch. Is that normal? I've never noticed it get warm before unless I'm hauling, which I'd expect, but I've had a wheel bearing replaced recently so I'm keeping an eye on things down there. The new bearing was just a little tight after it was installed but the guy who did it said that was normal to allow for bedding in. Sound right? I thought so but wanted to check the forum wisdom. TIA :thumbsup:

You should be able to hear the fan working and feel lots of air movement when it's hot. You could try picking up an xj/mj electric fan from a local P&P, throw it in wired direct to the batt (with a fuse!) and see if you still get overheating :cheers:

Is it a closed system? If it is, have a real close inspection of the radiator for pin hole leaks. That's all it took for my closed system to lose enough pressure to overheat when working hard or crawling but still being fine on the highway. Drove it like that for ages occasionally having to stop and let it cool a few minutes if the light came on. Wasn't until i drove in snow that I spotted a tiny tiny tiny tiny green drip in the white stuff coming from a real fine almost invisible mist spraying out a crack in a radiator seam :wrench: