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MJ_Milam

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Everything posted by MJ_Milam

  1. make sure you clean all the gunk out of the bulk head. I cleaned mine and packed it with dielectric grease to seal it up. Wouldn't it be easier to just fix the leaking master?
  2. Have checked the stabilizer while turning lock to lock? from the picture it looks like it could possibly be binding your drag link. I've had a similar problem when i smashed one on a rock at was making my pump whine at low RPM's and hard to turn
  3. you're also gonna need a TPS for an automatic transmission because there's a connector that goes from the TPs to the transmission as well. Also remember that 91 and up use a 23 spline out put shaft instead of the 21 spline in the renix era
  4. it hooks up to an old Sun oscilloscope and fit's in the hole and used for timing. I've seen long metal ones also but couldn't find a picture. It works like a hall effect and triggers like a timing light on the scope. sorry about the small picture, it was the best I could do
  5. those are for an inductive timing light pick-up wand. old technology, I'll see if i can find a picture
  6. I've read threads on Pirate but it tends to get tiresome because most threads I read seem to turn into a pissing match about who's rig is better and $#!& talking. I did read a build threat where someone did the slider boxes front and rear on a CJ and looked really good. Like anything else, the best way to find out how well something works is try it yourself and like I said, if i don't like them I can always go back the shackles. I figured I'd ask and start a thread about something else other than '88 renix questions lol.
  7. haha :doh: I guess i should've looked a little harder. I didn't see they had a universal set which would be a lot easier to install for sure. Plus they're about 100 bucks cheaper. I'm willing to give them a shot and if I don't like them I can always go back to shackles.
  8. When it high idles, try tapping on your MAP sensor. mine used to do the high idle on start up. tapped it one day and it dropped it back down. before I replaced it I waited a few more times for it to do it and eveytime I tapped the MAP, it worked. long story short, bad MAP for me.
  9. So I've been looking into these slider boxes and was curious if anyone has used them before. These are from LiquidIronIndustries.com, they only make them for the XJ but I don't think there would be much modification to make them work (I could also be sticking my foot in my mouth with that comment :crossfingers: ) but just looking for evryones thoughts on them. They look like a good in theory but like most of my posts, I like to hear others opinions to help point out the pros or cons I may be missing
  10. I haven't priced the rebuild kits, and they came charged with nitrogen from rusty's. I already flipped the clamps around and yes i welded brackets on the top and bottom.
  11. well here's a few pics of the shocks installed. definately happy with the purchase and will post again when I go out wheeling and let you guys know
  12. I installed them a few days ago. gonna upload some pics hopefully later today. so far they work great. hopefully soon i will be able to go wheelin and really test them out
  13. So does that mean you get a refund and keep the roof rack?
  14. here's a nice adjustable track bar. don't drill out the mounting hole on the axle mount :thwak: http://roughcountry.com/jeep_xtras_1079.html
  15. no, the renix era jeeps do NOT have a CEL. Renix era is pre-91 FYI
  16. numbers look good. personally I'd look for something for a little shorter duration. I like a cam with a low lobe center I.E. 106 with a short duration and high lift. makes great torque but still leaves you with good idle quality but that's just my two cents. If that's the cam you go with I would like to see a write up about it and how well you liked it :cheers:
  17. Well my shocks arrived today but didn't get them until 6:30 this evening so all I got to do today was look at them. Probably gonna put them on tomorrow after work. I'll post more pics once they're installed.
  18. I like the heim ends. they don't wear out like the rubber bushings. The 2.5 coilovers are a future upgrade i wanna do once i get my funds back up again. I hear great things about their products
  19. well today I ordered the RX300 shocks from rusty's. I should have them in 3-5 business days so when I get them I'll mount them up and post pics and hopefully follow up soon with a review after going wheelin
  20. I did 8.5" coils in the front and mine sits level.
  21. the 4.3 vortec doesn't use a counter-balance shaft because they have a splayed crank shaft and I-6 cranks are balanced, they are 120 degree cranks.
  22. try this site they usually have products for engine swaps https://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/engine_mounts/engine_mounts.htm
  23. ok so here is the skinny, 89 comanche non-ABS. I started eliminating the load leveling valve from the rear. removed the hard line from the propportioning valve. plugged the "nose" of the the prop valve (i know that was wrong now but i will get to that) drove around for a few months like that before realizing my rear brakes didn't work. did some research and found out that my rear brakes should be fed from the "nose" of the prop valve and the bottom front of the valve should be plugged (rookie mistake I know). so i corrected it and gravity bled the lines. then did the normal pump the pedal and bleed. did that and had no pedal i.e went to the floor. repeated this step 3 times with same results. probably went through a quart of brake fluid during this bleeding process. so experience taught me problem with the master. bench bled the master same result. so just for the hell of it i replaced it with a new master cylinder (not an autozone replacement). bench bled the new master, installed it, bled the lines and still the same results. so after a weekend of work i ended up with worse brakes then i started with. i would greatly appreciate any help or if there's something i'm missing that is a comanche snafu or I've gone full retard and am missing something simple. I know there's some comanche brake expert's on here. thanks
  24. those pins are for installation. once the locker is in the carrier you remove them
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