Bornindesert

Shaping up nicely, the lexan gives the truck a "Baja 500" Pro Comp Stock look. Hey, maybe I missed it in an earlier posting but did you go with new aftermarket bucket seats? If you did, what brand, I'm deciding on what to do with my next project.

Had a simiilar stumbling issue with my first 2WD Sport Truck. It had been parked for about a year too before I noticed the problem. Engine would start but no power, stumble and stall. Called Buddy back in NJ and he told me it sounded like the Catalytic converter had broken apart internally, and the slug slid back blocking the exhaust. I hate muffler work, but went ahead and removed the Cat and sure enough, it was loose and sitting at the back of the casing. Installed a new one and it fixed the stumble, completely. As mentioned, check fuel rail pressure...should be something like 38psi with key on, 28-29psi once it's started and running. Going from memory so might not be 100%, but close enough to pinpoint a fuel pump or fuel filter issue.

I'm working on my '88 4spd 2.5L 4X4 SWB, it needs to pass emissions but it was only hair out on CO. Would be nice to have a shop truck to make part runs on that gets 18-20 or more, so I'm doing the O2 sensor, plugs, oil change and some octane boost in the gas.

I think it's a best practice to keep them together if you are pulling the head, or in your case doing a rebuild. In a non-racing or non hi-performance engine rebuild, personally I wouldn't worry about mixing and matching pushrods or rockers. Things I would not mix up are lifters on the same old Cam, so presuming you have a new Cam and new lifters. Since both the rockers and pushrods have high miles, I would carfully inspect all bearing surfaces and ensure none of the pushrods are bent. If you see any scoring, pitting or strange wear grooves, toss that part and get a new one.

If the front (drive?) shaft is not turning while the truck in moving, the CAD is still disconnected. What happens here is one wheel, the right wheel is allowed to rotate freely and independent of the differential / driveshaft. The other wheel is driving the differential but because the inner passenger side is free to rotate, it rotates backwards. The degree of freedom allows the driveshaft to remain stationary. If the CAD is engaged, the drive shaft would turn as the truck rolls forward there is no option for it not to spin.

Some thoughts - miller vs lincoln, both are good brands and I'd say millermatics tend to be favored. Since you'll need gas, either lease a tank or purchase one...might want to check out the local welding supply shops in your area. Thought there is you'll want to actually do business with them and if they are a big Miller dealer may want to stop by and ask their opinon on your used purchase. For whatever reason, some of the welding supply outfits are less customer friendly then others. The one I go to now, in Phoenix is a Praxair and they are really cool, friendly and work hard at even the smallest details. Others are more hardcore, take it or leave it. I'd want to run wire through the machine, hook up some gas and make sure it regulates to the handle. Weld up some scrap, even better. It's a decent machine for light duty welding, that's why I'd get the pro's opinion to see if it will handle the job you want to do with it. If you plan on welding up a bumper, it will definitely push the machine hard from a duty cycle perspective. If you are welding thin sheet or spot welds, perfect machine.

Increadible pace...that's a clean looking Comanche, going to be a great daily driver.

What's the plan? Going to rebuild the engine or just through the rebuilt head on it?

Thanks for the ideas - I'll update once I get it ready to roll through...again.

The truck is an 88' 4 Cyl manual 4 Spd with 145,000. Also a 4X4 :thumbsup: Also a red Sport Truck... Original Arizona truck from Payson where there is no inspection or emmisions requirement. In Phoenix, we have the dreaded inspection and emmisions test just to Title the truck. So, 1st attempt: Equipment (Gas cap, Evap Sys) - Pass Hydrocarbons was 4.36 - limit is 3.00 Fail CO was 62.65 - limit is 25.00 Fail NOX was 5.11 -limit is 4.50 Fail Looked underneath - a test pipe was living where the Cat goes. No problem, had a good Cat and swapped it in last night. took it back to the Inspection station today. I know, should have looked underneath before 1st attempt... 2nd attempt: HC was 2.18 - Pass CO was 27.03 - Fail (but just barely !!!) NOX was 3.34 - Pass Plan of attack (and to be modified based on suggestions) is to change the oil and filter, remove/inspect/replace spark plugs and take it back through next week. I've read on another thread that the O2 sensor is a must replace, so I guess I could go there as well. The truck really runs pretty decent for 145,000, just need a few points of CO and life is good...

Any tips on the harmonic balancer replacement? Did you replace the seal as well? I need to do mine soon. Did not replace the seal, and I think that would make a difference in how you approach the balancer replacement. Contrary to the AMC repair manual, you do not need to remove the radiator. I did remove the cross brace above the radiator, so I could remove the fan shroud and the electric fan was also removed. Belt was of course taken off before starting on the balancer. Left the mechanical fan on it's pulley. We worked from the top, and bottom to chase the 5/16" NC balancer threads with a tap. You'll likely need to run (2) hardened grade 8 bolts in to restrain the crank from rotating while you get a 3/4" socket on the crank bolt. It broke free fairly easy, two man job...one holding a prybar and the other on the breaker bar. I went a bought a crank puller, it was like $17 at Autozone...BUT, after it was all said and done I probably could've used the steering wheel puller I had in the tool box. If you have one of those, check it out. Since you'll be discarding the old balance, guess you could try any old puller but I'm a right tool for the job kind of guy. Once you get the crank bolt out, set up the balancer puller and wrench it with a 3/4" open end from the bottom. The wrenching end of the puller will be right up into and above the lip of the lower chassis frame. Tight but doable. Balancer should walk right out. The bad one was shot, the rubber was crooked and the inner / outer segments has started drifing apart.

Update: swapped out the harmonic balancer and the squeak is gone! Engine is running nice and quiet, smooth and steady idle. Never would have guessed bad harmonic balancer. Thanks for the lead.

Also went with the RockAuto Moogs, would have to check country of origin but thought they were USA . Definitely agree though, Made in Taiwan generally means high quality. They are light years ahead of China, have been supplying aerospace and automotive parts for many years.

I have an 88', so not sure about your 87'. There are two condenser styles, factory and 'American' or dealer installed. One of the differences is where the lines connect at the condenser. My American AC connections were on the engine side of the radiator support. The factory and most replacement condensers connect in front of the radiator support. The lines are obviously different. There are also at least two compressors, not sure but would determine which is installed on your 87. I purchased the liquid lines from RockAuto and the condenser to dryer line from an Auto AC outfit in Florida. The guy I talked to in Florida knew all the correct lines that I needed based on my condenser and compressor. 56279 was the Four Seasons p/n for a 91 4.0 that I bought from RockAuto. Fits the factory or pass through the firewall style hose to condenser. JeepAir.com was the place in Fla that I found for the liquid line, or Drier to Condenser. I'd call them if you have questions on what you need.

Sounds good, I may swap the balancer off another motor I have and will also post up any improvement. Are you thinking that it can be swapped out without removing the radiator? Thanks - we are off to the harmonic balancer races! Really looking to get this one thing taken care of, my son understandably does not like taking his Comanche out in public with such an obnoxious belt squeak.

Update - tried most if not all of the suggestions and still has a squeak. All the pulleys are spinning freely and have no bearing play, replaced the Alternater (more of an upgrade to 100A), switched out to a known good AC Delco Belt, belt dressing, various tensions and no improvement. If you squirt some WD40 it immediately goes silent for about 30 seconds and then comes back. Once the engine comes up to full operating temperature, the squeak sometimes goes away or dies down. It gets louder if you rev the engine. The belt is not exactly tracking to the center of the Fan pulley, which means that coming off the Alternator and entering the Harmonic balancer pully the belt runs toward the back of the Fan pulley, has about 1/8 inch gap from the front lip. There is no adjustment for the Fan pulley, it is part of the A/C motor mount. Just to verify cpa tim...mine is not a continuous squeal, it's a squeak that chirps every belt revolution and it's fairly load. That said, wondering if yours was a continuous squeal or repeating chirp? The noise seems to be coming from between the water pump pulley and the harmonic balancer, so it's possible that could be the cause of the belt squeak. So, I'm now thinking...could it be the Harmonic balancer?

Yeah, pretty sure they are aftermarket but the ones in the back say 4X4 :thumbsup: Will post a pic...

Thanks for the inputs - I definitely do not want a disconnect axle or low pinion D44 so that pretty much rules out the Dodge Ram full-size axle that I found. Will open up the search to include D60's and get look for some common interchage vehicles that have them from the factory

Does anyone know of have experience with modifying a 2001 Dodge Ram full size pickup, Front Dana 44 axle into a Comanche or Cherokee? Have been scouting for a Rubi front D44 for my 88 Comanche and saw the Ram d44 listed locally. I'm assuming its wider, would need to be shortened and swap the C's to fit a WJ knuckle. Any info would be great thanks!

They seem to be coming out the woodwork here in Arizona. They are definitely dusted but completely restorable or buildable. I picked up two that were plated and on the road, they do need some work though.

And they have an LED version for a few bucks more.

Will definitely give the alternator a twirl once the belt is off. Now that I thinking about it I'm going to try and determine if the squeak is once per belt revolution or higher. If it's once per belt revolution I'd lean toward the belt. If its random or not in sync, might be a pulley or accessory

The idle is solid. Steady and smooth, RPMs normal range. Starts easy, no hesitation. I'm going to eliminate the brake power booster and see if that makes a change in the power. I want to do the 96' conversion anyways on this truck so I think that's the next step. The power issue hasn't detracted the kid from putting some miles on the odometer it's just about ready for a diff oil change on the new gears.

So before I tear into the pump I think I'll try swapping out the belt with the old one or one that I know doesn't squeal. Thanks for sharing your experience with the Dayco belt. Sure looks like a decent belt! Just no manners.