88 Beast

Rick, was good to meet you the other day in P-town while having my tires replaced. Your truck is looking good. I'm still thinking of unloading the topper. The offer still stands if you need a hand. You got my card. Latter. :cheers:

Awhile back a buddy of mine bought one of those. We were going to make bumpers for his V8 powered Ranger pickup. They should call them " pipe smashers". Did not work at all. He returned it and got a paint gun instead, worked pretty good.

Check the vibration damper. My truck was making a ticking sound awhile back, thought it was an exhaust leak. Turned out to be rubber in damper coming apart and allowing it to rub on timing chain cover making ticking sound.

Nope, I have the Explorer disc brakes on a Dana 44. Ren - Did you keep the Crown Vic orientation? One leading caliper and one trailing caliper. Or did you switch to two trailing calipers? Any info or link for Exploder disc swap? Thanks.

What is C/V? Crown Victoria? Got a D44 in my truck, how hard to install those discs? I assume your all using Exploder axles, I'd like to keep the D44. Any info on above :dunno:

What is C/V? Crown Victoria? Got a D44 in my truck, how hard to install those discs?

I agree, contact cleaner fumes and an arc :eek: I'd use WD40, that's what it was originaly used for, (W)ater (D)isplacement. :smart:

if it's the light switch, wouldn't the headlights NOT work? i've been having the same problem and also haven't had time to diagnose yet. and then every once in awhile it will stop popping fuses. Not necessarily, there are a separate sets of contacts in switch for the tail light circuit.

If it's not the fuse, could be the light switch itself

Need some help. Trans. shift cable broke, lucky I was in my driveway. AW 4 column shift. Called the dealer and they said part discontinued :fs1: I know I can convert to floor shift but I like the column. Anyone know where I might find a cable. All Cherokees Ive seen are floor shift. Hope you can help a brother out :help:

I ran into the same problem when I rebuilt my front end. There are two different size TREs available for same year trucks. I don't remember the sizes though. Best bet is to take old part with you to parts store.

I got to fix mine too. Start with the easy stuff first making sure getting power to compressor through low/high pressure switch on dryer. Jumped across terminals and compressor kicked on, no froze compressor :clapping: so hopefully just low on charge. Now to decide if to spend big $ on R12 or convert to R134a.

Some fog lite manufactures use tinted reflectors in there fog lites. IE PIAA and LITEFORCE for an example. How about watching for a big brand on EBay or somewhere else used? I picked up a set some years back like this, less than half price and great set of lites!! I have had good luck with HELLA lites also. CW Good idea, I've got HELLA's for my off road lights, might check into their fogs. I'm pretty sure I've seen clear fog light advertised before though. :dunno:

Needing some input. I'm looking at installing fog lights. What type of lenses do you recommend, clear or orange, what brand? Yea, Piaa's are nice but too much $$$$ for me. Looking for a decent brand, no Wal Mart specials. Already wired up with relay. What do you think?

You didn't mention if you had a column shift or a floor shift. I assume if youve got idiot light cluster you have a column shift, mine did. I don't believe the gauge clusters every came with a PRNDL. Some gauge clusters came with the mount posts for a PRNDL. Just take the face panel off the cluster and you'll be able to tell. Careful measuring and you can cut an opening in the tach face for the PRNDL and an opening for the cable in the housing and install the parts from your panel. Looks like factory :banana:

x2. Same thing happened to me. Sounded just like an exhaust leak. Luckily I spotted it right before tearing into the manifold :banana: Easy to replace and cheap too. Just make sure you use balancer puller and installer. DON'T use a hammer.

Way to go !!! :thumbsup:

I hope you installed the double lipped style seal. Take it from someone who didn't. My crank had a slight groove from where the old seal rode. Being one for instant gratification, I installed the single lip type ( had to get the thing bank together pronto). A month later started leaking again. :mad:

I guess I should consider myself lucky with a 18 gal. tank in my SWB. It would suck to have only 13.5 gals. of fuel. I drive 64 mi. a day to and from work. I'd spent most of my time at the gas station :fs1:

Sounds like air in the system. If there is, make sure you bleed with the proper procedure if your still running the height sensing valve. A PITA but only way to bleed the air out..

I don’t see how the remix motor couldn’t benefit from breathing better like any other motor. Certainly would be a HP gain not to mention louder. Stock exhaust manifolds are known for failure in these engines. Never heard about one increasing engine bay temps, where did ya get that info? I agree, any engine can benefit from better breathing. I'm running a Borla s/s header.

Welcome to the fold. This is a great site with good folks. These trucks are basically XJs with a bed. There are some differences but this site will guide you. These are great little trucks worth saving. Welcome again. :cheers:

Probably all three :brows:

If your engine is 4.0, I believe they are not adjustable. Rocker arm is torqued to spec. on stud and thats it. You might have a lifter that is bleeding off causing taping noise.

You might be able to jack up trans. enough to swap mount but dropping x-member is a piece of cake.