88 Beast

Thanks all for the input. I'll do some more t/sing and try and get this figured out.

Yup.

Been battling the intermittent high idle at start up (hot or cold engine)for what seems forever. IAC motor, CPS and 02 sensor are new. Ohmed out MAT and CTS sensors today per Chrysler Renix FI System t/s and repair specs.( found link here somewhere, lots of good info)and checked out good. Tested MAP sensor, input volts @ 5, specs 4.5-5. Output volts 3.67, spec says 4.5-5 and replace if not in spec. Started truck and was operating within spec of.05-1.8 volts at idle. My question is if the altitude of 6200 ft. here would make a difference in the output voltage of the Maps. I'm getting alitte tired of throwing parts at this but want it fixed as it's my DD. Any input would be great. BTW, I've checked all the normal stuff; vacuum leaks, grounds,etc. Thanks

Too hard to drink laying on my back. Quess I need to practice more :cheers:

15 min. quicker to Beer:30 :cheers:

I replaced mine without dropping crossmember. Just jack trans. up far enough to clear the crossmember. Piece of cake.

If your trying to replace the freeze plug on the side of the block,you can without pulling the intake/exhaust manifolds. I speak from experience. It aint easy but can be done. If your lucky and get access to a installer tool, some auto parts stores might have loaners. I had to use a socket and wobble extension. Took awhile, but worth not having to pull manifolds. Good luck.

Before you go banging on your starter, try using a remote starter switch to bypass ignition switch. Could be nuetral start switch. Did you try to start in Park and Nuetral? Good luck.

A couple of years back I installed buckets from an early 2000's Ford Escort wagon ( I think ). Perfect gray cloth and adjustable headrests and folding backs. Lots of work, but hey, put your mind to something and it'll get done. :thumbsup:

That's my next step. Buddy of mine has a 91 or 92 Cherokee but he's not here today. Same switch and module?

Wipers work on both speeds, not much of a speed difference, though they've always been like that. That's what got me :dunno: if FSM testing is correct. I'd just like some info before I go back to NAPA with a defective switch. Could bad module short out w/s wiper switch?

I'm sure switch is correct, NAPA WS1019. Same number of wires and color code. 7 wires and pins at connector. Again, any help would be great. Thanks.

PLEASE some help. Wipers and washers stopped working. Tilt with intermittent wipers. Switch finally gave out, had been running wipers without module for awhile. Spent most of today replacing switch with a new one. Plugged in without module, all worked good except delay of course. Installed module but delay function n/w. Maybe bad module. Decided to check new switch per Electrical FSM. From what I read, with switch harness connector unplugged, across terminals A and D should be 0-500k ohm when rotating switch from min.to max delay. I assume the reading should change in relation to rotating, right? Same test and range between A and G terminals. Both tests failed on new switch :grrrr: I got .000 ohms at A and D, and .0FL between A and G. Now for the Help. Before I tear my steering column apart again, is there anyone in our world willing or crazy enough to disable their perfectly working wipers to check if the switch operates as the FSM test says. I know it's alot to ask but you'd be my hero :thumbsup:

:agree: I'm going the same route. Must be getting old or something :ack: With the Beast being a DD, I'm going quiet this time around, leaving the noise to 68 Camaro.

Burning some vacation time, so decided to work on the beast. Fixed no start problem, turns out update to CPS harness was done back in the day and soldered harness connection was badly corroded, easy fix :banana: Replaced leaking p/s pump and leaking freeze plug, a royal PITA with a header tube in the way. Found a broke motor mount too. Now for the cooler lines, the're all leaking at the connection to the front cooler tubes. I can get new lines but they don't come with the plastic seal that goes on the cooler connections at the radiator area. Maybe just need to replace the seals? Napa and Autozone aren't much help. Are these seals dealer only parts? Just Empty Every Pocket :shake:

I think my CPS finally gave out. Cranking no start, going to start t/s tonight. I have testers that connect to spark plug wire in place of spark plug and clamps to a ground to check for spark. Which one would I use? HEI or standard ign.type? Thanks for the help.

Switch in radiator would control electric fan operation. I think it comes on about 200 deg. and off at 190 deg. I don't think I'd run just the single electric fan. Summers can get pretty warm here you know and stop and go traffic might get alitte with just the one fan. You could probably run two electric fans controlled off the radiator switch. Of course you'd have to run another relay for the second fan.

From what I understand, there is no way to manually adjust idle speed. It's controlled by the ecm from the inputs of of all the engine sensors

88,4.0. Truck always started good. Was t/sing my wipers awhile back and had it idling for a few minutes. Shut it down and tried to restart, cranked but wouldn't start. Held gas pedal to floor, still wouldn't fire. Pissed off so had lunch and a cold one. Came back out and fired right up. Seems to only do this only after extended idling. I can drive it around, shut it down, fires right up :dunno: Any thoughts?

All looked good. Any other ideas, is it normal?

Thanks, how bout the pan gasket #?

Yup, got it at NAPA

Been having wiper issues for awhile. Wipers were dragging real bad. Finally replaced linkage bushings today. Going to start snowing tonight. Seems to be working better but noticed the motor was moving while wipers going, all mount bolts tight. Is this normal? Also intermitent fuction not working. T/S per FSM, removed module and connected plugs. Seems wiper switch bad between terminal A and G, open. Almost $100 through Rockauto :doh: I can do without that for awhile. Any thoughts on wiper motor movement?

Don't know the part numbers, but heard about them here. Maybe someone in the know will pipe in. I could use the part #'s too.

Did my rear main awhile back, seal must have been original. Hard as a rock and came out in pieces. No leaks for about a month. I should have known because of the groove worn in the crank from that old seal it wasn't going to last :mad: Guess when I get motivated I'll do it AGAIN with the double lip seal and one piece pan gasket.