LoTGoD

I thought about it last night and came to same conclusion. Why I didn't figure that out when I installed it is beyond me. Seems like it would be the same thing as brake bleeders, so I must have had a huge brain fart :wall: Thanks!

2-door XJ doors from just about any year should swap over with no problems. Not sure why that thread would say that. I currently have an 88 XJ door on my MJ, and have had a 94 XJ door on there before. No problems what so ever to install them. I have 2000 XJ full power doors that will be swapped in next spring when I get the whole MJ painted.

Here you go Wade! http://www.tptools.com/Product.aspx?display_id=2600 Looks to be cheaper than $130...

After taking a weeks vacation off of work, which translated in to 10 days of work on the MJ, here is where I stand: Ground the ring gear on the 8.8 4.56 gears to allow the center pin to come out Test fit and welded BTF spring perches Installed disc brake backing plates on the wrong sides...removed and reinstalled Installed Spidertrax wheel spacers Drilled out knuckles and installed Rock Krawler X-Factor steering New brake lines all the way around. Installed WJ MC and booster with aluminum spacer. Fits like a glove! Installed external clutch slave. Still need to bleed and test it. Does the bleeder face towards the top, or is it ok on the bottom? Partially installed wiring harness Installed 4 Skyjacker Nitro shocks Installed drop pitman arm Installed 4WD lever and tested linkage. All t-case gears are good. Installed speedo cable in t-case. It appears to be short. Where can I get a new one? If you have one, let me know! Need drive shaft - Going to take TJ front CV shaft and have it lengthened to fit with 1330 u-joint for 8.8. Have SYE installed on t-case now. MJ is sitting on 4 tires now. The bed needs mounted, along with the gas tank and connections. I feel better about it now, but I won't be happy until it is rolling on the road.

Does a pirate look at forty????

1337 is geek speak for "elite" 1337 kinda looks like the word "leet", which is obviously a shortened version of "elite" Here you go...read away! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leet

wow...weird. I only live an hour from Colesville...may have to take a run over there today and see this new city!

I agree 100% Eagle. I say let the folk from Utah decide what is best for Utah! In this case, it seems that the folks from Utah KNOW what their constituents want!

Wrong. The pin just holds the leaves from sliding relative to each other. The pin is at the point where the axle sits, and that's the fulcrum for axle wrap. The diameter of the pin does NOTHING to prevent axle wrap. So the length of the perch determines the amount of axle wrap? What size pins did you use? I don't have a problem doing it that way at all, as long as it is quick and easy :brows:

Eagle, I was on there yesterday, but couldn't find any link to the anti-friction pads. BTW...anyone know what centering bolts I need for stock 2WD leaf packs? The standard MJ leaf springs use a 3/8" center bolt; the MT springs use a 1/2" bolt. Why don't you PM HellCreek (Tom), he might have all you need as he builds MJ springs. I've sent Tom from HellCreek a PM, but I will post here as well just to get some input. I picked up a set of the Blue Torch Fab spring perches. These things are VERY BEEFY, but the hole for the centering pin is 5/8"! Does anyone have any idea if pins can be bought that have that large of a head on them? I'd imagine I could possibly use an allen head bolt with that large of a head, but will that be strong enough? I don't have an issue drilling out each spring for a larger diamter bolt, I just want to make sure I am doing this right. I figure the larger the pin, the less chance of axle wrap? Thanks, Aaron

It's been since months since I've scored...on the MJ as well....

http://www.4wd.com/productdetails.aspx?partID=52877 Install Video!!! Yes...we get bored at work...

Thanks. I already did the exhaust. Check out the post at the top of this page. That's what started all of this. :thumbsup: Willy I think your last pic is what CW was talking about. From the angle of the camera, it looks like the shock will hit the exhaust if mounted in the outer-most position. After going back and looking, I can see you have plenty of clearance!

Guess what I got in the mail today!!!! Rob, I can't thank you enough for stepping up to the plate for a fellow CC member!!! :jump: :jump: You Rock!!!! Aaron

wow... Read this : viewtopic.php?f=6&t=11077

Eagle, I was on there yesterday, but couldn't find any link to the anti-friction pads. BTW...anyone know what centering bolts I need for stock 2WD leaf packs?

Thanks a TON Rob! I'll post up here once I receive it. Rob was also nice enough to send me a USPS tracking number, so I get to watch it get closer each day!!!

I guess my internet skills aren't that great... http://www.bds-suspension.com/products/ ... onpads.php It does say that they only fit BDS springs, but for $12 I'll take my chances.

I think that is the correct name for them. These are the nylon pads that go between the leafs. I can't find them anywhere. I've checked all over the net. Anyone have a source for these? Thanks! Aaron

Dave, You did a real nice job on those covers, but your post of $100 or more for a quality cover is a little off. Solid Axle has covers for $65, and they are beefy as all get out! www.solidaxle.com

Wade, I gotta post my experience with the same thing... Last winter before I moved out of my ex's place, I had the same thing happening to my 90 MJ. I changed the o-ring, and it was still doing it...gas everywhere. I found a replacement through the "Wanted to buy" section on JU. The guy said the motor on his 89 XJ siezed up the week before, and that the fuel rail was never an issue. I think I paid around $20 for the replacement rail, complete with the regulator. Once I got it and hooked all the injectors up, the same dang thing was happening. I got frustrated and just let the MJ sit in the driveway for the next 3 months, as I had no idea what to do. Cut to January of this year. I moved out and had to drive the MJ to the new place. I thought for sure it was going to catch fire on the drive, but when I got it to the new house and popped the hood, there wasn't a spec of gas anywhere. The only thing that I can think of is that since my fuse panel was eaten so bad by DOT 3, it was somehow causing the fuel to run in to the rail at full blast the entire time? I'm not sure if that is a correct assumption, but that's the only thin I can think of. Since the electrical problems were intermittent, that was the only explanation that I could think of. Obviously take all of this with a grain of salt, as my 90 is just sitting with no harness right now... :cheers: Aaron

I'm pretty sure you could say that about every American, not just the president.

Started installing the Rock Krawler lift. Ran in to a bit of an issue with the lower control arm mounts. RK asks you to install their LCA mounts, then cut off the OEM LCA mounts. This kit is designed for new style XJ's, so I ran in to a bit of an issue. MJ OEM LCA: XJ OEM LCA: As you can see, the MJ OEM LCA mounts extend much further down the frame than the newer XJ ones. It was an easy fix, I just had to remove the OEM LCA's first :cheers: Also, and I don't have a picture of it, the MJ has 2 additional tranny/t-case cross member supports that the newer XJ's don't have. The RK LCA mounts require a crush sleeve to be welded in the unibody for strength, but wouldn't you know it, the RK mount covers half a hole from the OEM secondary cross member brace. Some drilling and grinding, and we are all set. I'll get some pics tonight for reference.

You should have 4 bars. As Eagle said, these are control arms. 2 upper, and 2 lower. I'm sure it is just a miss-use of the word, as my dad refers to all axles as "rear ends" :clapping:

Sadly, I lost her to the ex-girlfriend when we broke up. Her name is Cherokee, and she was the first real pet I ever had. My mom wouldn't let us have any pets when I lived at home. Haven't found a new one yet. She's a Sox fan as well!!!!