Randy in Maine

Well my 90 is still maintaining about 20 +/- 1 mpg (with 10% ethanol) when driven at 65 most of the time. 3.07 axle though 4x4.

Excellent point well taken Eagle. Also make sure that the electrical connection is good on the wire that goes to the sender. I never use teflon tape on the senders as it can interfere with the grounds for the sender. If you feel the need to use teflon tape, just run a new ground wire to the sender unit.

I have to do a similar thing, but I would like to get rid of the multi-piece moulding on the outside and go with a one peice rubber type seal. Where would I find a good seal?

Quick update. The new headlight switch did not fix the problem and I ended up taking it to "my guy". 5º here this morning and I had a meeting I could not get out of. One of the headlight power lead wires had rubbed itself raw and was shorting out. The circuit breaker in the switch was doing its job. I picked it up after they had closed so I could not talk to the mechanic who fixed it to find out more information.

Thanks! That is my plan (to replace the light switch) first and see what changes. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I will keep you posted.

Excellent point. If the circuit breaker in the switch is really just doing it's job here and overheating when something is indeed shorting out downstream of the switch, how would you suggest troubleshooting the electrical problem? Any likely suspects? The only things that do not work on this Jeep (and have not for some time) are the dual interior "dome lights" up in the pillars with the funky rocker on off switches. If those are running though this breaker, would I be well advised to start lookng there? Both headlights work in both high and low beam, and the dash lights/taillights/signals/marker lights/license plate lights all work OK. Thanks in advance!!

Eagle, I am bringing up a post from the dead if that is OK I noticed tonight coming home in a light snow, that my headlights are doing the same flashing thing. I intend to pick up this switch tomorrow and install it. Do these thing have relays for the headlights also? Is the Echlin switch any good? I could try try the dealer if theirs is any better. http://www.napaonline.com/Search/Detail ... 006+101990

A 50/50 mix works best for me. Too much A will also cause it to overheat. That puts me at about -34º F. Been here? http://www.gi.alaska.edu/ScienceForum/ASF6/680.html

It almost sounds like you need to bleed the cooling system. You may very well have a bubble in there that is causing the light to come on. Then make sure the fan is getting power from the sender. Then confirm the coolant temperature with a thermometer.

Well i finally got the hood open after about a week of sub-freezing temps. I just could not pull the latch cable hard enough. I cleaned the dead lithium grease on about everything (with Gum Out and a rag) ont he mechanism and the only thing I had handy was some NAPA lock de-icer (that is mostly a graphite spray with some sort of solvent). Sprayed it up pretty good. Everything moves freely right now but that could likely change. I am washing the truck in a heated garage bay right now. Got my fingers crossed.

I would start by looking at the igniton resister gizmo on the drivers right side under the hood. Then I would look to see if there really is any spark coming to the plugs. Could be your igniton wires are el bunko.

If your blowby is from excessive wear in the piston rings, the best valve cover in the world won't help. Be sure to torque the valve cover bolts correctly. I would do a correct compression test. Basically you run the engine until warm (about 5 minutes), remove the spark plugs, disable the fuel pump, open up the throttle, do 10 cycles of compression, write it down, do 10 more cycles, write it down, squirt a tablespoon of oil into the cylinder, do ten more cycles. Your compression would be the average of the the first 2 cycles. If squiting the oil in changes things by 10 psi, your rings may have a problem. A leakdown test (properly done) will give you additional information as to just what is worn. I also found that using Gum Out carb spray helped unseal the oil pan from the RTV sealant that some people use. Mine doesn't leak a drop.

If that is addressed to me, well yes I do live in Maine. :cheers: Where I live it is usually no more than 10" or so at a time. I also know how to drive in snow.

I run the Michelin LTX M/S in stock 215/75/15 size and even though they are a standard load "SL" tire, they do pretty well on the Comanche. I have about 50K on them and they show almost no wear. http://www.tirerack.com/tires/Spec.jsp? ... ageLocQty=

I would do the tank first. Either buy a new one or do the POR-15 thing or KBS to clean and seal it. Another option is to send your injectors to cruzin or witchunter.... They both clean and calibrate them for cheap money. www.cruzinperformance.com www.witchhunter.com

I have 2 of them, one that goes in the house (and also mounts in the Westy when we go on trips) and one that just stays in the Jeep. In the house I have a roof antenna, in the cars it is just that "hocky puck" type of thing. About $15 a month for the two of them (I think).

I use 1 cubic yard of bank run gravel = 1.4 tons More info here http://www.age.psu.edu/extension/factsheets/h/H20.pdf

Sweet set up, although that Porsche 411 interior light is hard to come by.

A quick update. I drove ~600 miles from Maine to DC to pick up this 79 VW P-27 camperbus on a wet & windy Friday. Nice bus with lots of spare parts. Deluxe camper in Mexico beige with the 2 burner propane stove, sink, fridge, poptop (exactly my other camper) with absolutely no rust to it. It had car tires on it vs "bus tires" which did not help with "windwag". Also it was loaded with a spare engine, and boxes of spare parts and likely weighed about 4000 pounds. The good tow bar worked geat as did the good tow lights. I started back on a windy but dry Saturday. It was a big load for the Comanche and the lack adequate braking required constant attention sort of like driving in snow where quick changes in anything were not advised. Traffic was also heavy and 55 mph was the best towing speed. Engine braking and 4th gear up hills proved helpful for braking and to stay on top of the torque curve. Not white knuckle drivng, but close and stressful. Winds on the bridges and as big trucks passing required a lot of care. Sunday had reduced wind and dry conditions. Clutch action was a drag when waiting at big backups at the toll booths on the various turnpikes, but I got through it. The Jeep ran very well, even pulling this 2 ton breadloaf. If I had to do it again, I would use a bigger and heavier tow vehicle. Like an F-250 or something similar.

PM sent. Thank you!

I just need the handle assembly that attaches to the inside of the tailgate via the 3 torx screws. My cables that release the tailgate are still good.

And if the tailgate latch is any good, I am in the market for one.

90 longbed. My latch is rusted toast. Randy in Maine

I used "black velevet" since I had some laying around. http://www.por15.com/BLACK-VELVET/productinfo/BVG/ Getting the grease off it was the worst. Use the gasket from the dealer as opposed to the NAPA one if you do not want it to leak. That was over 5 years ago and it is still in great shape. Oil temps should run in the 180-220º range.

Well I hooked up my towbar to my other 79 VW Camperbus and pulled it behind the Camanche for about 10 miles. You definitely know it is back there, but it stopped pretty decent from about 60 mph. That is all I will likely be driving anyway. My mechanic guy say to "go for it" just be sure allow for a good safety space in front and to be mindful of the clutch and to use the engine for slowdowns. I think I am going to give it a try. I will report back after Thanksgiving.