mvusse

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Filters should never be tightened with a wrench anyway. They're only supposed to be finger tight. I'm glad I don't have my Geo Prizm (Chevy Nova/Chevy Prizm/Toyota Corolla) anymore. I could never find a socket type wrench to fit that filter and there was no room to get a strap type filter on it. Had to remove the splash guard to get to it and if I couldn't get it by hand (more often than not) I had to resort to the screw driver method. The Renix engines are bad also. The filter is upside down, so there is no way to get the filter off without spilling oil everywhere. Have been planning to install the newer style adapter or a filter relocation kit ever since I got my first Comanche, but still haven't yet.

Airing down will void the warranty on any tire. Guy I wheel with has been running a set of their's on their off road rig for two years. Former coworker had a set on hiis DD Dakota. No complaints from either. When it's time for new tires on Sparkles some time later this year, that's where they will come from.

Kinda late notice to plan anything, but I'll be at Southington Offroad this weekend. Camping in this van:

Jeepskool still is. Kinda. Kelly (Robocon, owner of the Jeepskool name and site) lost the lease to the property. The owner himself is running the events now under the name Southington Offroad. The volunteer staff is the same. Same venue, some new trails, different management. Check out "Southington Offroad" on Facebook.

All 3" kits I have seen and dealt with on Comanches lift the front 3", and lift the back to what looks more or less level with the front, anywhere between 1" and 2".

For tractor tires you will probably need to get 16" rims For a 15" rims I'd suggest Maxxis Buckshot Mudder or BF Goodrich Mud Terrain T/A KM2. Super Swamper TSL Boggers would be a good choice, but the narrowest they come in to fit under your truck without lift is 12.50, which is too wide for stock rims.

I had 1.75" in the front of the Pg and it sat as nearly level as I could tell.

Not to say they haven't been swapped at some point in the past, but in looking for a sending unit that wasn't rusted through causing a leak, I have found short arm ones in all three sizes tanks with no rhyme or reason to what was in what. The only long arm sending unit I have (out of four I own and another three I left in the junk yard because they were toast plus one for a 2.8V6 that didn't have a provision for the fuel pump) is the one in the 23 gallon tank that originally came on my 87 Pioneer. I did found that the short arms units will read full when the tank is anywhere above 3/4. Possibly because the arm can't go up any higher. I used the best looking unit I had (which still had a pin hole rusted through, fixed the broken return line (Wildman has a read up somewhere on here), coated the inside and outside of the cover with seal-all to fix the leak and swapped my long arm sender over to it.

I just bought a 96 XJ 4x4 donor for my 2wd one earlier this week. Found it on a local forum for $600 and made a 4 hour round trip with a trailer to pick it up. Body is so badly shot it's not safe to drive (I did take my chances on a few hundred yard test drive, though), as there are no floors, a 3 foot section of frame rail is missing and the rest of the frame is rust held together by the rust proofing. I can move the trailer hitch up and down by hand, and the bumper and what's left of the load floor moves with it.... But it runs great, shifts great, has an after market steering box brace, brand new still in box steering stabilizer on the passenger seat and a brand new air filter. Power locks, power windows, cruise and AC all work great. I figure keeping both what I need and what I want, selling what is sellable and scrapping the rest I should make the entire $600 back.

88 uses a separate TCU, whereas I believe in 2000 it is incorporated into the ECU. The 2000 transmission has more sensors that the 88 computer does not need, and the wiring harness is different. If you can adapt the harness, I see no reason why it should not work, but can't guarantee it.

Which also means you're still going to have to shell out for that 1 1/16" socket.

Sounds to me like a timing issue. I'm guessing the distributor was installed a tooth (or more) out.

Installed my historical vehicle plates.

Yes I have. I use a pipe wrench and an impact to remove it, and an extension pipe on my pipe wrench and a torque wrench or 3/4" drive breaker bar (sepending on whether the axle uses a crush sleeve or not) to tighten it.

Six bolts total as in three on each bracket.

The XJ has since disappeared, replaced by another 87 Comanche that had 79,000 when I got it last February. I believe it has 87,000 now. Also a 96 Cherokee with 187,000 and since the day before yesterday another 96 Cherokee with 144,000, but that one's for parts only. No floor, hole rusted through the roof, missing a 3' length of frame rail, and the rear bumper, and load floor move when I pull the hitch up and down. My tow rig is a 1991 GMC camper conversion with 204,000 km.

Behind the corner marker light there are two screws holding the headlight surround to the front of the fender as well as two nuts holding the header panel to it. The top center nut holding the flare and fender liner on also goes through a bracket that's riveted to the inner fender. I'm assuming you found the screws on top under the edge of the hood, the two behinf the door, two underneath rearward of the wheel opening as well as the ones on the bottom front corner. The bumper should be held on to the brackets with two bolts on each side, and the brackets to the frame with three. If you have all six bolts holding the brackets to the frame off, it should come off.

Except that ain't no Jeepster. It's a J4000.

Back to the original topic: If I ran an air intake underneath the truck (even tucked up against the floor with the "frame" rails and skid plates hanging lower, Ii would still smash it on a rock within the first 15 minutes off road. Bad design and ugly realization.

They're both behinf a 96 4.0 HO.

Swapping the transmission in my 96 XJ for the 4wd conversion. Now does the torque converter stay with the engine, or does it stay with the transmission?

Never heard of it. I run a Smittybilt XRC10 and have been happy with it. $400 at 4wd Hardware.

You're allowed to drive it in parades, to/from/in club events as well as to get gas, get it fixed or whatever. No daily driving. Doesn't affect me any. If I drive it to go off road somewhere (instead of trailer), that would be a club event. If I drive it to work, that is to fix something on it or service it (heated shop versus gravel driveway). If the same officer spots you heading the same direction in the same spot every weekday at 7:39 am you will probably have some explaining to do.

I think I just spotted a durned nice black Comanche in Groundhog Day.