mvusse

Check the fluid.

At least three people got screwed over by this guy, including one on a local forum I'm on ($275 in his case). The guy kept coming up with excuses to stall, says he has no money to ship (although the shipping had already been paid for by the buyer), and THEN all of a sudden he has a new winch on his truck. :nuts: There are multiple threads about this, and if bored it can be quite entertaining to read.

There are three different length input shafts, AND there are 21 spline and 23 spline ones. Also either during 94 or between the 94 and 95 production year they changed the cut of the gears as well as the width of the bearings, so old and new shafts will not interchange.

5W30 or 10W30 Mobil 1. You're correct about the sulphur eating the brass synchros.

On top of that, if your tap water has iron in it (hard water) it will condense out rust as brown gunk that will plug everything up, including every channel of your radiator. Automan: Plain water actually does transfer heat better than a water/antifreeze mix. But it doesn't lubricate, freezes easily and causes corrosion.

Got my schedule. June 2, 9, 10 and 24 will not work for me.

At least he upgraded the axles, but it still needs either better front axle shafts and u joints or a bigger axle. I break 297 style u joints (same as D44) with 35" tires. I have tried Duralast and Duralast Gold (may be great for stock tires, but junk for what I do), Neapco and Neapco Bruteforce (about the same as the Duralast), Spicer 5-297x (not up to the task), Spicer 5-760x (solid cross, cold forged, 40% stronger, used to last a while but the last two I grenaded within minutes of being on the trail) and now an Alloy USA Chromoly one (althought that one took some work to break). I'm not spending $300 on CTM.. Buddy of mine with a Bronco on 38s has busted u joints in the gravel parking lot before getting on the trail. He upgraded to a D60. Still, nice looking mall crawler as it is.

An acquaintance of mine is a police officer. For kicks and giggles he ran the plates on his Ford Ranger and was quite surprised when it came up as a CHrysler New Yorker. Turns out the car lot where he bought it gave him the wrong title, and he never paid attention to it. Don't know how he rectified it.

I already get a club discount through Stillwell Stompers.

Point taken. AX15 is longer than an AX5, pushing the shifter back.

I hate to disagree, but my 87 2.5 runs a YJ AX5 (and the YJ transfer case shifter and linkage). The transfer case shifter is ok, but it looks like the previous owner cut a section out of the shaft to make it shorter. The stock YJ transmission shifter hits my dash in all odd gears.

On a stock YJ the shifter is further forward than in the MJ/XJ. Installing a stock YJ shifter will cause it to sit against the dashboard in 1st, 3rd and 5th. Don't know about aftermarket shifters.

I won't be going to their meeting.

Should have 3.55, but to be sure, pull the diff cover and either count the teeth, or read the stampings in the edge of the ring gear.

Harbor Freights' old winches (as well as the older Smittlybilt ones) are known to be slow, but that was usually the only complaint about them. I heard the badlands ones are faster, and I know my XRC10 is not much slower than a Warn. I did see an old Harbor Freight one weekend before last when the owner was respooling the drum. Even without a load that thing crawled. Have yet to see one of those new ones in action.

They also just moved the site over to different software and I don't like it. Maybe I've been spoiled by phpBB... Most of their members are north of me, but I know and have wheeled with a good number of them. A lot of them frequent Southington Offroad (formerly Jeepskool) and a number attended the Dover Dirt Trails truck rally last summer. For those closer to east central Ohio, Hardcore 4x4 Hooligans grew out of Steel Valley when they fell apart due to differing opinions between their president and the members, and of course there's Offroad Ohio which covers the entire state and has separate forums for about every place in the state that allows ATVs and/or trucks.

My budget forbids a Warn, so I run a Smittybilt XRC10. $399 at 4wd hardware.

If your current cluster has dummy lights you need to swap the oil and coolant temp senders for the new gauges to work. If your current cluster has gauges, the current ones will work just fine.

Sounds fine to me.

SOA on stock springs usually nets around 5.5" of lift depending on what spring perches you use. To get the truck to sit level you will probably need 6.5" lift in front. On top of that, a SOA design will increase axle wrap or spring wrap, which can be a serious problem with larger tires and our soft, long leaf springs. If you are only wanting to lift the front 3"-4.5", I would go with a set of 4.5" rear springs (Hell Creek or Motion Offroad) and mount the axle SUA like the stock setup.

My brother had one in "his" room at my parents' house until last Christmas when it sprung a leak.

X3 on Korean.

Those are the same rims my 96 Cherokees (both Sparkles and the parts rig) came with.

Post a picture so we know which ones they are. The Purple People Eater sits on steel wheels. Rims painted flat black with chrome beauty rings. Sparkles has steel wheels also, left them the stock silver.

If you're going to run just propane, and never run it on gasoline, have you given any though to upping the compression ratio? Propane in an engine set up for gasoline will make less power than gasoline. And it has an octane rating of 110.