mvusse

I went spring over axle with rearched springs (~8" higher than stock in the rear) and used a YJ yoke for just a bit of added length. It worked, but didn't engage the transfer case as much as I'd like. I then swapped in an 8.25" which has a 1" longer nose on it and it was a lot better. After I bent that shaft I had a 2wd Toyota one shortened to my specs (about 1/2" longer still). After I dented and bent that one I got another stock one. When I twisted that one in half I had a bullet proof one made out of 3/16 DOM tubing, same length as the shortened Toyota one. Front driveshaft has always been fine. So for the front you are fine, for the rear you should be (going SOA, I assume, as nobody I know makes 5.5" lift Comanche rear springs). Only way to tell for sure is to do the lift, then measure for the length at ride height, full compression, and full droop.

Middle is off, up and down are on and door open, but which one is which depends on how you installed them.

If they are like on my 96 XJ, they are external Torx (E12) and a bugger and a half to get to.

The lenses have three positions, on, off, and with the doors open. Quite often the contacts on the "switch" are corroded.

Yesterday I tore into Sparkles. After 8 hours I had the transmission almost out, being stopped by the dipstick tube that would not come apart at the seam. Also removed seats, center console and carpet to get access to the screw holes for the transfer case shift linkage bracket in the transmission tunnel. So today after trying a few more tricks I ended up taking my pipe cutter to the tube and cut it off. After I cut it off I could pull the two half apart with y finger tips :fs1: Removed the transmission, installed the linkage bracket, installed 4wd transmission (also out of a 96 Cherokee, same year as Sparkles), go to plug in CPS only to find out the plug is different. End up swapping the CPS. WHY ARE THE PLUGS DIFFERENT? THEY ARE BOTH 96 XJ'S!!! Also swap the short harness for the transmission and transfer case shifter lights. Sparkles was 2wd, so only had one bulb on it. Donor had 2 bulbs. Swapped the speedo sensor over from the 2wd AW4 to the 242 TC. Swapped in the donor cable that goes from the engine compartment to the speedo sensor and rear O2 sensor since 1- The original had the speedo sensor too far forward and wouldn't reach, and 2- the donor one had the transfer case 4wd light plug in it. BUT: the speedo plug was different. Ended up pulling the speedo sensor out of the donor's 231, swap the 34 tooth gear over to it (it had a 31 tooth for some reason, making me believe it was not the original transfer case) and installing it into the 242. Still need the XJ 2 wire 242 light switch and pig tail as mine has the ZJ 4 wire plug on it. Supposedly the plug for the pig tail to go in is behind the plate on the side of the transmission. Again, why do two 96 Cherokees have DIFFERENT PLUGS FOR THE SPEEDO SENSOR??? Have the plate with the exhaust grommet and the transmission mount bolted up, but not the cross member yet. That's as far as I got today. Oh, and I got the turn signals on the Purple People Eater working again also. Up for tomorrow: cross member, starter, front exhaust pipe to manifold, front drive shaft, fluid (transmission and transfer case), new wheels/tires (tires arrived yesterday and have been mounted on the new wheels now), carpet, center console, seat belts, seats, lift shackles, check pinion angle to see if I need dgree shims or if the shackles are enough, measure for rear drive shaft, go to my dive train shop (JCW Cookson in New Philadelphia, OH). Oh, and an oil change. I also still need a 5th wheel for a matching spare, and a 242 bezel for the transfer case shifter as the donor had a 231. And finish up the Pig (see a few posts higher).

Post a picture of your springs. it's also possible your shocks are too long, causing the shocks to be bottomed out before you reach the bump stops.

6.5" front usually goes pretty good matched to a SOA with regular (non MT) springs. Yes you can add spacers to the front, or use taller springs. But a few point to be aware of: Adjustable control arms and track bar: Will they still have enough threads engaged to be strong enough? And how is the control arm angle? Shocks: Are they long enough? Brake hoses: Are they long enough? Front drive shaft: Can it extend far enough and handle the angle under full droop? I run 6.25" front lift with (adjustable length) short control arms and they are fine. No harsh ride partly due to some very soft shocks. But I don't know how they'd handle going up another 2.25" ride height. Limiting straps may be a good idea.

Friend of mine runs a Waggy 44 front. Don't know what he runs in the rear off hand, but they both have matching 6 bolt wheels. He left the axle leaf sprung.

That is also why there was a safety recall on these fuses as far back as SEPTEMBER 2007!

Grill is upside down.

I'm currently doing this to the little bracket that screw to the bottom of our trucks to hold one end of a rod of the transfer case linkage. It and the donor truck were too badly rusted to risk unscrewing it (didn't want to twist off the screws). I simply cut the whole section of floor out and stuck it in a bucket. For the anode I used a 1/4" steel disc that a hole saw cut out when I was making lower control arm bracket braces. I checked on it a few times today and decided to let it go overnight. Water looks disgusting, though, with a thick layer of brown scum floating on top.

Worked for me this morning.

I did notice the tube was two pieces, but where they are joined together they are pressed with a few dimples. That joint doesn't want to separate either. Will try the worm clamp idea from your second link.

Even though 4.10 gears aren't optimal for 33" tires, I think they'll be good enough. That way you'll only have to regear one axle. And if you're used to a 4 cylinder you'll be pleasantly surprised by the increased power.

I have an 1996 AW4 transmission almost out of the truck. Dipstick tube against the firewall is stopping me. Chilton doesn't mention anything about it, Haynes specifies "remove dipstick tube from the transmission". How does the tube disconnect from the transmission pan?

I can imagine why they are rare. They're fugly. Never seen one before in my life.

Replaced leaking pinion seal on rear axle, refilled axle, drained and refilled transfer case, swapped out a bad unit bearing with the old one from my broken front shaft. Turns out it is bad also. Still to do: Change tranny fluid Change engine oil/filter Replace tube seals in front axle Replace unit bearing again (still have three spares that *should* be good) Get bottom roller on fairlead rolling again Get speedometer working again Yeah, I think I'm almost done.

Except afaik there was no factory rear tire carrier for the XJ either. Spare tire mounted inside behind the rear seat on the driver side. The Liberty (called Cherokee overseas) has a factory rear mounted spare, but it doesn't look like that.

And even if your odometer does read correctly, depending on driving habits, 10mpg around town on wide 31" tires is not impossible, especially if they are an MT tire. On stock tires (27" and a lot narrower), highway driving at 60mph should be able to get 24mpg. As far as your tank size goes, the low fuel light goes by the same signal as your fuel gauge. To find out what size your tank is you would have to drive around with a can of gas in the back and run the tank completely dry. Don't forget to fill the can again when you get gas after that to make up for the gas your poured in to get to a gas station. Fuel gauges are nice, but can not be trusted to be accurate. Even on a Chevy Cobalt that can show me fuel remaining in miles I drove more than 50 miles after it said 0 miles remaining...

I'm looking for one rim like this one. 16x7, 5 on 4.5. This one is off a KJ Liberty, but they may have been used on other models as well.

Official fluid for the NP 231 is Dexrn/Mercon ATF. I imagine 10W30 might work, but don't know how well the oil pump handles the thicker fluid. Some people use gear oil, but the synchro for 4-hi is -you guessed it- brass.

How about June 30?

It seems some people have a problem with air pockets when filling the closed cooling system. A seemingly good way to burp the system is to park the truck nose down (or jack up the rear) and remove the coolant temp sensor until coolant comes out. The sensor is located in the head next to the valve cover, driver side near the firewall. It has one single wire coming from it. Warning: some people have broken the sensor trying to remove it when it was rust welded in place. I myself remove the thermostat housing end of the upper radiator hose and fill the system through the hose. Never had a problem doing it that way.

I've never had an issue needing to burp the system. I disconnect the upper radiator hose at the thermostat and fill the system through it.