mvusse

Society of Automotive Engineers. There are quite a few "standards" set by them, including non-metric thread sizes and shapes. I quote "standards" because they are not technically a standard, but common enough to be used as one. If they were they'd be called "ANSI xxx thread" where xxx would be the standard number.

Society of Automotive Engineers. There are quite a few "standards" set by them, including non-metric thread sizes and shapes. I quote "standards" because they are not technically a standard, but common enough to be used as one. If they were they'd be called "ANSI xxx thread" where xxx would be the standard number.

Shaking can be caused by a persistent miss. You may have changed your spark plugs, but how about wires, distributor cap and button? Whenever you change one, they should all be changed at the same time.

Shaking can be caused by a persistent miss. You may have changed your spark plugs, but how about wires, distributor cap and button? Whenever you change one, they should all be changed at the same time.

:hijack: summerinmaine: I want to know the story behind your Dakar decal.

:hijack: summerinmaine: I want to know the story behind your Dakar decal.

My 84 Olds 98 had a 307 with a Quadrajet, and the primaries were not the same as the secondaries. The primaries were quite a bit smaller, actually, which allowed my V8 powered 4000 pound car to cruise down the highway getting 25mpg. In my opinion it is one of the best, if not the best, 4 barrel carburators out there, offering good fuel economy when cruising while offering the capability of delivering 750cfm airflow under WOT on a large enough engine to draw that much. On a regular 350, as on my 307, the secondaries will never open 100%. It is a very good choice for a 350, but what's wrong with the TBI? It is mechanically a much simpler, more reliable design.

My 84 Olds 98 had a 307 with a Quadrajet, and the primaries were not the same as the secondaries. The primaries were quite a bit smaller, actually, which allowed my V8 powered 4000 pound car to cruise down the highway getting 25mpg. In my opinion it is one of the best, if not the best, 4 barrel carburators out there, offering good fuel economy when cruising while offering the capability of delivering 750cfm airflow under WOT on a large enough engine to draw that much. On a regular 350, as on my 307, the secondaries will never open 100%. It is a very good choice for a 350, but what's wrong with the TBI? It is mechanically a much simpler, more reliable design.

Get rid of that piece of crud Fram oil filter before it damages your engine and replace it with something better. Purolator Pur-One is good, but anything is better than Fram, except possibly the Advance generic one, as I believe it is the same Fram filter.

Get rid of that piece of crud Fram oil filter before it damages your engine and replace it with something better. Purolator Pur-One is good, but anything is better than Fram, except possibly the Advance generic one, as I believe it is the same Fram filter.

If it has TBI it is not a Vortec. The Vortec are 1996 and newer and all have sequential multi port injection. The older (up to 95) 350s (5.7l) can take either TBI or a carburator, but you might have to by an intake manifold, or at least an adapter plate from Summit Racing to go from one to the other. Then again, you might not as I have no personal experience with the conversion. I do have personal experience with the TBI 350, as my Suburban has one. On a side note, I might be trading my 94 Suburban for a 95 ZJ. Was really looking to sell, buy a cheap XJ and have cash left, but this might be a better deal as it's difficult to sell a full size SUV right now.

If it has TBI it is not a Vortec. The Vortec are 1996 and newer and all have sequential multi port injection. The older (up to 95) 350s (5.7l) can take either TBI or a carburator, but you might have to by an intake manifold, or at least an adapter plate from Summit Racing to go from one to the other. Then again, you might not as I have no personal experience with the conversion. I do have personal experience with the TBI 350, as my Suburban has one. On a side note, I might be trading my 94 Suburban for a 95 ZJ. Was really looking to sell, buy a cheap XJ and have cash left, but this might be a better deal as it's difficult to sell a full size SUV right now.

Read the comments. Supposedly after it cooled off, it started right up again and ran for like 5 minutes with no coolant or water pump before a piston came through the side of the block. Sounds like these engines have more lives than a cat.

Easiest route will probably to find 4.10 axles off a 4cyl Cherokee and have someone weld SUA perches onto the rear axle.

You can try this:

I am currently (temporarily :D ) running without a cat, running the stock muffler where the cat should be, followed by a glass pack to make it to the next exhaust mount, and a down turn before the rear axle. Get 24mpg highway with a 4.0/aw4 lifted 4.5" if I stick to 65mph. Get about 17 mostly around town with the occasional 5 mile jog on the freeway. Removing the stock muffler from the equation will lower back pressure even more, and might lose you some low end torque. Just a glass pack without a cat might actually be a bit too loud (in my opinion), so you'd have to install a tail pipe all the way to the rear (like stock set up) to quiet it down a bit.

Hmmm, breakfast!

Be aware an XJ rear axle is not a bolt-in. The spring perches have to be cut off and new ones welded on (or old ones reused). The spacing between the leaf springs is different between the Comanche and Cherokee.

You silly Hornbrod, Chrome is for ricers. :rotf:

I think the reason the fog lamps run through a relay is because they run off the same headlamp circuit and through the headlight switch (hence they only work when your headlights are on). The combined draw from the fog lights (55W) plus the draw from the headlights (55W or 65W) will overload the switch and possibly rest of the circuit. But the draw from the relay (1W?) is small enough to be negligible.

I agree with Eagle. Having had several issues with my sender unit, I was removing/reinstalling it almost weekly for a few months. No need to drop the tank or remove the drive shaft, but removing the drive shaft does make it a little easier. Upside is, I bet I can now remove one, change out the pump and have it reinstalled within 20 minutes tops,

Soooo.... how exactly did you end up in the snow filled ditch?

Since it seems my wallet will like 285/75R16 a little better than 33x12.5R15, and they are still 33", but an inch narrower, I did some math. If my math is correct, the inside of the tire should be pretty much in the same place for the following two: 33x12.5R15 on 15x8 rims, 4" backspacing 285/75R16 in 16x7 rims, 4" backspacing Would that be correct? The 285 is about 1" narrower, and with the same backspacing the 1" narrower rim would sit in 1/2" more. The outside of the tire would stick out 1" less with the inside of the tire in the same spot. I think. 33x12.50R15 tire $175, rim (Cragar soft 8 ) $45, times 5 = total $1100 285/75R16 tire (retread) $130 shipped, rim (Cragar soft 8 ) $60, times 5 = total $950

My buddy runs the Treadwright 31x10.5R15 MT on his Dakota. The web site showed only one in stock (if you put in a number larger than 1 it showed out of stock), but he called them on the phone to order 4 with matching sidewalls. I believe they are BFG AT, but not positive on that. He's happy with the so far. I wish they carried those in the 33" flavor.

:agree: Those are definitely not stock springs.