mvusse

There was 4' on the deck when I got here. Now after yesterday with pouring down rain and 52 degrees it is down to 3 feet.

Oh, he will find out soon enough.

Abominable would thump them both. :cheers:

The reason is I didn't think of the NSS is because mine is broke. I can start my truck in any gear.

Not quite, but close. My truck didn't have a cat when I bought it. The rest of the exhaust was swiss cheese. So after I bought a new front pipe I put the stock muffler (only good piece of exhaust I had) directly after the front pipe where the cat is supposed to be. Then I followed that with a 30" glass pack to make it to the next exhaust hanger, and a downturn that dumps in front of the rear axle. Be aware that in a lot of areas, if you dump out the side it has to be behind the cab to be legal. Or at least behind the rear most seat, which in our case is behind the cab.

Not running well might be because of your missing vacuum system.

Chico, Wade, Adam, where are you guys? Actually, I think Wade made post in the color thread not too long ago.

Installed another fuel pump yesterday, All is good (for) now.

Congrats on your new obsession and welcome to the first day of the rest of your life. And don't discount the possibility of just needing new headlight bulbs to get the brights to work.

Mine is the new alternator. The bearings in the old one got toasted during a severe case of DW due to excessive (2" inches!) toe-in after installing a lift. Before it got killed, the old alternator never went that low, or that high in the cold. The new alternator does.

I find the larger PIA is not the slosh pan, but the little bracket the grommet on the bottom of the return line fits into.

Most likely the CCV orifice in the valve cover is plugged, causing most of your blow by and oil leak problems. It can't be fixed without removing the valve cover, so unless you used the blue rubber re-usable one you will have to buy yet another valve cover gasket.

The fuel pump would not make the lights flicker. Since the light flicker it would probably electrical, somewhere in the ignition system. How is it driving with the brights on and the heater full blast? If not for the flickering lights I would have agreed with fuel delivery as bucking is usually a tell tale sign.

Well, yeah. If it were standard, the starter is optional.

Your truck's automatic, isn't it?

I never took a picture of mine, but I'm pretty sure it's not fixable. There's no metal left, just oxide - also known as rust.

http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=208 http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index. ... cts_id=571 Motion Offroad is also a member here, maybe he will pipe up with more information.

Oh and welcome! Beer's in the fridge.

How much do you want to spend? Chevy drop shackles in the back, 1.75" spacer blocks in the front and 10.5x31" tires looks pretty good, and you may possibly even be able to keep your stock shocks. If not, a cheap solution is to use shock extensions for the front shocks. The tires may rub the lower control arms on full-lock steering, but either don't steer that sharp or use Grand Cherokee lower control arms as they are curved to clear the tires. But you get what you pay for. Spending a bit more money you can lift 3" or 4.5" with full rear leaf packs and after market adjustable control arms, and run 33" tires, possibly some minor trimming to the front fender area. But you will also need new shocks and brake lines that may or may not be included in the kit. Also 12.50x33" tires need rims with about 4" backspacing and 8" width, or going by tire manufacturers specs, 10" wide (and ~5" backspacing) if you will not take it off road. Stock 7" rims with 5.25" backspacing will not work with tires that wide. Motion Offroad makes 4.5" kit that is pretty complete. They can sell you long travel shocks with built in bump stops to go with it. I am currenly running 4.5" lift with the same 29" tires (P235/75R15) I had before the lift. Currently hoping to save up money for 5 rims and 5 33" tires. And welcome to the club! Beer's in the fridge...

Green light or not, straight through always has right of way over left turn. But people in MI don't know that either as I found out on vacation a few years back.

remove it and take it to a parts store where they can test it (NAPA, Autozone, Advance etc.)

MJ shackles are longer than XJ shackles. Since the shackles are pointing down on our trucks and Cherokees as opposed to a lot of other vehicles. So XJ shackles will drop an MJ. Chevy 2" drop shackles are supposed to fit and lift a Comanche 1.5" or so and can be had for $40 or $50 off Ebay. I have drop shackles off something, don't know what originally but could be the Chevy drop shackles and they lifted my rear about 1.5". But to quote someone on here when seeing a picture of my truck: "Holy long shackles batman!". The best solution is lift springs, but that kills the idea of a budget lift. Another option would be an add-a-leaf, but they ride horribly and sag quickly. IIRC stock length for Comanche shackles are 7.25" center to center. Any other shackle, take the difference and divide by two will tell you what effect it has on your truck. Cherokee shackles are 4.75 or so. It is raining right now, so it's too wet to measure my lift shackles.

Hmmm, my buddy got MT tires for his Dakota to use in snow, secretary uses MTs on her F250 for use in snow mud and horse crap (she has horses), and the tire place I usually go to uses MT in the winter in their personal trucks. I was of the same opinion as them that any aggressive tire should be okay as they can dig through fluffy stuff down to the pavement, and pack down the wet stuff sticking the cleats into it to get traction there. Then again, I myself do the opposite, using snow tires not only in snow, but for mud as well. And aired down a bit so they flex they clean relatively well of mud with a bit of spinning. But that also means I have no personal experience with MT tires in snow. Theory and opinion don't mean much without real world experience. My snow tires: I used these same tires on my 2wd F100 with great results. The brand is Wintermark. They come in common car sizes, up to P235/75R15 and that one size is available in standard as well as extra load rating.

If he has a stock style front drive shaft with the double cardan joint up top, then the pinion u-joint angle under normal consitions should be straight. IE the pinion pointing directly to the end of the double cardan joint, which is steeper than pointing at the transfer case. With that much lift, however you may well end up with a negative caster angle, which is worse than a bad pinion angle. So you may have to compromise on both to still get some caster and hopefully not have drive line vibrations off the front drive shaft.

My Pioneer had them as well. Or the remains of them as the last 21 years had not been kind to them. I replaced them with a cheap pair off Ebay for the time being.