mvusse

Whoops! I'm a little tired. Fixed!

I do believe that's a tailgate.

Regarding U bolts: Don't reuse them if they have been used AT ALL. They stretch when you tighten the nuts. They are not supposed to be stretched more than once. And they don;t cost much. I pay about $7 per u bolt custom made to my specs (length, thickness, diameter and round or square). On top of that I don't think they will fit anyway. A D35 is 2 5/8" diameter, an 8.25" is 3" diameter.

Perches are in! :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: :banana: From RuffStuff Specialties.

Removed the air dam and trimmed the front flares. I also cut some off the inside of the fender liners to give the tires a bit more space. I could only turn about half way before the tires would hit the back of the fenders, moved the axle forward 1/2", now they hit on front. Got to back off a bit.

Whether coils in the rear give you more or less travel depends on the complete rear suspension as a package. 2 link, 3 link or 4 link, how are control arms set up, what kind of joints on the ends of the control arms, anything interfering, load rating and length of coils, where are the coils mounted, travel of shocks, where are the shocks mounted, how are the shocks mounted. Each one of those matters. And if you design your suspension, also take into account bump stops so the wheels don't travel up too far and cause body damage, and drive shaft issues so you don't stuff it too far into the transfer case damaging it, or come too far out either falling out or breaking the tail housing. And your brake lines need to be able to handle the travel as well. Unless you plan on jumping the truck and need the amount of travel to dampen the shock load before bottoming out, a good leaf spring set up with flexible springs (low load rating, like the stock ones) can travel more than enough. My shocks are what limit my rear axle travel, both up and down.

No time to reply this morning, but I can hear my pump.

:rotf: OMG is that funny! Yeah. I hesitated for a while before posting it.

Say what?

mvusse - Manhole real name - The Receptacle

To have one single add-a-leaf lift a spring under axle truck 3", it has to be an extremely stiff spring, and ride will suffer horribly. More than likely, though, it is a 3" lift add-a-leaf for a Cherokee (spring over axle, springs pretty much flat), meaning it will not lift a Comanche anywhere near 3". No personal experience with this lift, though. Also, 2" is pretty much the max you can go with the stock sway bar links. I ran 1.75" with the stock links and had no problems. I have seen a Cherokee with 3.5" lift and it busted 1 and bent the other all to heck. So 3" I advice to get quick disconects, or longer stock links. There is a Jeep model that uses similar but longer links that should interchange, but I can't remember which. Then again, for the price of 2 new links, you might as well pay a bit more for disconnects. The rear shocks shown in the picture are for a Cherokee and will not work in the Comanche unless you take the bar pins out. They may or may not be the correct length. Also, the correct drive line angle does not change with axle height (pinion shaft should still be parallel with transfer case output), so the shims build into the leafs will actually mess up your drive line angle. Anyway, gotta go, late for work.

Make the the next incarnation has a snorkel.

The MJ is an MJ. The MJ that got burned was a hacked up XJ.

Aren't pickup trucks excempt from the mpg standards?

:agree:

After fruitlessly trying to find perches locally I found bunches, but not what I needed. Dover Brake had 2" wide perches in 5 different axle diameters meant for trailers, Ohio Light Truck Parts/Big Boy's Toys had universal 2" wide and 3" wide, and 2 1/2" wide for a Ford 9" (3" diameter), R & S Truck Caps could not get them, Summit Racing for 3" axle tubes only and the Jeep/Chrysler/Dodge dealership could not find a part number for them. I ended up ordering 2.5" x 8" spring perches for a D35 with 3 holes to locate the axle from Ruffstuff Specialties. $36 including shipping. Not too happy about the price as I was originally expecting around $10 or $15, but oh well, life goes on. I did contemplate making my own, but after buying 1/4" wall 2 1/2" steel square tubing, a 2 5/8" hole saw and a (9/16"?) drill bit I would not really save any money.

Bad ground in either front or rear light wiring harness, or bulb socket.

First of to verify some information: Comanche leaf springs, 2 1/2" wide? Dana 35 axle tube diameter, 2 1/2" or 2 5/8"? And where would be the least expensive place to order spring perches to do a SOA conversion? I remember someone saying they did it for $9 or so, but all I find is $25-$30 plus shipping.

Which one of those did you steal off the passenger front of your minivan?

Since I've had my truck I went from stock to 4.5" lift with no drop in mpg at all. Now that I went up to 33x12.50 tires it probably went down, though.

Looks like a Comanche to me.

My 94 XJ (HO 4.0) with AX15 and 3.07 gears get's 17 around town babying it, just under 20 going 60-65, just over 20 going 70-75. So my Rexix 4.0 gets better mileage (24mpg at 60-65), but the HO gets better at high speeds.

Is your cap fiberglass or aluminum? About how much does a fiberglass cap weigh? I can get one for about $20 bucks - it needs some attention, but its not horrible. I'm concerned about it being too heavy for me to remove by myself. Mine is fiber glass. I have removed and installed it by myself once, but it is too bulky to do so easily. With another person helping it's a breeze. Weighs maybe 100 pounds. I used to help my buddy with the hard top on his TJ. My cap weighs about half of the TJ hard top.

Excellent!