mvusse

Got some stuff done today. First off, I replaced this There was also a metal plate with a stud and a few specks of rubber, but the dog peed on it... And then I went from this to this

Wow, that sux! Wish there was anything I could do to help. Good luck.

Last week at work I had to move my truck so the plywood truck could make it to the garage door. I decided to park on the ramp into the woods and my buddy thought it made for some good pictures:

Chevy 2.8 V6. It's a turd.

The rubber in the driver side mount has disappeared. It's just a bolt inside the metal hoop! New mount is sitting on the driver seat as of 10 minutes ago. Will install it tomorrow. Would have done it tonight, but my daughter wants to go to the drive-in movie theatre for opening weekend. Monsters vs. Aliens and Hotel for Dogs. Woohoo... Yeah, that last word was sarcastic.

Good luck making THAT fit.

:eek: The video is doing a stationary brake torque. Same thing happens when accelerating, going uphill etc.

My Jeep had fog lights from the factory, so the headlight harness had the wiring and relay already there.

The 2JZ-GTE engine does make 320hp (at least the version for the US market, others are "only" 280)> But it's not a 4 banger. It's a twin turbo 3.0 liter inline 6. I'm pretty sure that's at the crank. Put that in an older rwd Corolla, add a wide body kit and you got yourself a nice drift car.

Track bar would not be a bad thing either.

Can't wait to see how well your long arm set up works at Badlands in June.

Time I can spend. As for money, perches and welding totalled like 60 bucks. I don't see the problem with using the D35 until I break a shaft. THEN start looking for a D44 or 8.8. No C clips, so if I do break an axle I can still drive it in front wheel drive to get home. There's a reason I locked the front, but not the rear.

I used the factory fog light wires, relay and switch.

Some pictures I took. Yes, a rear axle does fit in the back of a Cherokee: And I decided to wire wheel, rust treat, prime and paint the leafs before final assembly of the leaf packs:

As built as that motor is, the 350 transmission wouldn't survive me for more than an hour. Should have a TH400.

My truck will never get there. Front up 2" more, back down 1.5" and it will be exactly where I want to keep it. But WOW! That's impressive.

Thanks for pointing that out, that's one of those common sense things I completely forgot about :doh:

Currently I do not own, or even have access to a welder big enough to weld to the axle housing. After tacking on the new perches with an 80A wire feed welder I took it to a local shop and had a professional weld them on permanently. $25. Also to gain the ground clearance I would also need to change back to round U bolts and put the plate on top of the springs. The clearance is not much of an issue that close to the wheel, and I gained almost 2" already from not having the springs underneath. By the time you add things up, I might be able to get a set of shocks for the same money. Once I figure out what length I need compressed or extended I will dive into the Autozone master shock catalog again, like I did for the front shocks. Either way the back is all together again, stance is as pictured above, but with the wheels forward 1 inch. As soon as my buddy gets my stock shackles off his Cherokee it will drop down 1.5", and his Cherokee will go up some (he's getting the lift shackles, as his stock ones don't work with his lift springs). I also still (weekend?) have to add the 1.75" spacers to the front and put the shock extensions on the shocks. What is on there now is the longest shock available without going to universal shocks for more than twice the cost.

It doesn't say High Output under the 4.0 Litre, so it's an 87 through 90, which is the Renix (AMC) 4.0, so it would have AMC wires. Even though Chrysler already owned AMC (and thus Jeep by then), they didn't change to the High Output Chrysler version until 1991. Not much changed internally, but the engine control system is different, as is the intake manifold and cylinder head to allow for better airflow.Less low end torque, more higher end torque and thus HP. The debate is still on about which engine is better in a truck.

Well, after work I got 4 2.5" wide by 8" long square U bolts, 8 heavy washers, 8 nuts, 2 3/8x3 center bolts and 2 nuts for those. Started by bolting the spring to the axle, this is how I'm doing it: I was afraid the lift shackles would give me too much lift, and my stock shackles are under my buddy's Cherokee, so I asked if I could use his stock Cherokee shackles. The results? Not enough lift, and the shackle is too short. Sitting at rest it is angled back about 45 degrees, under droop it is stretched forward so much that it wants to flip up instead of back when weight is put back on the axle: So the lift shackles went on: This is more lift than I want, about 9", and the drive shaft is out of the transfer case so far I'm afraid it might put enough of an upward load on it to possibly damage the tail housing. The axle is currently sitting in the back of my Cherokee with the perches tacked on. Tomorrow I should get them fully welded and back under the truck. I will probably use the forward hole in the perches to minimize drive shaft issues so I can at least drive it until I can get my stock shackles back. They should drop me down to about 7.5". 5.5" from the soa swap and 2" from my stock -seemingly re arched at some point in time- springs. Currently my rear shocks are too short. With the truck at rest and the shocks disconnected the shocks sit about 2" below the mounts, meaning the axle can droop only about 2". With my stock shackles that should be about 3.5", which might be workable for the time being until I get longer ones. Front should get lifted 1.75" more over the weekend. Will be putting 3" shock extensions of the front shocks, which will hopefully act as a temporary bump stop to keep the wheels out of my fenders. I might end up raising the flares to the body line anyway. Don't know yet.

Spent all afternoon until 15 minutes before dark, and the final result is 2 spring perches tacked onto my rear axle and the axle sitting in the back of my Cherokee.

What am I missing here?

Welcome back, it's been too long!

You will need a 7mm allen key. No set I've seen comes with one, but I eventually found a socket one (3/8" drive) at NAPA. Glad to have you back, I thought you were gone for good!