mvusse

I don't think you can post a question like that and realistically expect a bunch of replies 20 minutes later...

If you flip the axle over the wheels will spin backwards.

I played that in school. In grade 11 or so.

I imagine with enough drag from the water, and the clutch, the fan would barely spin at all. When my motor and transmission mounts were bad I had a problem with the engine shifting forward under load. Climbing a steep hill the fan ended up eating first the shroud, and then later the radiator itself. Somewhere in my build thread I also have a video of my "Mexican jumping 4.0" taken at that time.

6 bolt

Two of my favorites were Bubble Bobble and Bombjack.

Does anybody have plans or blueprints for front bumpers? I can usually make something functional, but need two tries to make it look good. Once to try and look at to make modifications for the final design. For what steel costs, I'd like to build my bumper only once. No round stock, as I don't have (access to) a bender.

On another note, did you do any wheeling yet since you locked the front?

It was in response to Freakjeep's reply which implied you'd need a CNC mill to do something like that, and not a comment on your fab skills or use of tools. I agree, when you have access to one you may as well use it. And don't mess your truck up too much off road. I know I beat on mine, but you know what it looked like when I first got it. If mine looked like your's did when I first met you a year and a half ago it would likely never go off road. Heck, even with the damage I saw last time I wouldn't. Did you replace that scratched flare yet?

Neither of mine had one when I got them.

But if the junk is cheap enough, it might be worth it. They had a little 95A wire feed on sale for $80 this past summer (parking lot sale), add a 20% off coupon to make it $64, then $20 for an additional two year "even if you hit it with a sledge hammer and break it it's covered" free replacement warranty, and even if it dies 2 years and 91 days later it would have been worth it. Nice light unit to carry around and use outside, big MIG welder can stay in the basement for fab work. So far it's already been worth it, replacing entire floor pan from back seat to firewall in the Cherokee, as well as some miscellaneous small stuff. Yeah, it's not the best, but for that price it's disposable.

What "same" 6x5.5? S10 is would be 5x4.75.

My Cherokee (4.0 HO)has a 26" long Cherry Bomb glasspack and stock cat, and at freeway speeds the drone can just be heard over the wind noise. Cheap Wal-Mart stereo easily drowns it out. Suburban (350 TBI) had a 30" Thrush glasspack and hollowed out cat, and same thing, except for the stereo being the stock factory radio. Ford F100 (302) had a 30" Cherry Bomb glasspack and no cat, and same thing except for the stereo being a "Pioneer Super Tuner" piece of poo running through even worse Jensen speakers. Comanche (4.0) doesn't count, as it has an OEM replacement muffler in line with the glass pack, but no cat.

Even though toys like that make it easier, the same thing can be achieved with a jig saw, angle grinder and drill. Just have to make do with what you can afford.

Well, at least now he has a parts BA10. WD40 is great for water displacement, but not really a lubricant. Try PB Blaster, or soak in tranny fluid. Also, the stock yokes accept the same u joints. Doesn't mean the drive shaft and yoke on the YJ were stock.

9-11 mpg is what my 6000+ pound Suburban used to get around town. There's definitely something wrong with your four cylinder.

Assuming stock tires and gearing, cruising 60mph for long distances on flat roads should easily put you over 20mpg on summer gas. Even in winter 20 should be achievable. Before I went to 33" tires, my 87 Comanche got 24mpg on long (>200 miles) highway trips. Easily 21-22 on shorter (50-60 miles) ones as long as I kept my speed down. The 91 and newer HO engines are a different beast altogether. They have a higher torque peak, and seem to get better at higher speeds, but at the same time higher speeds mean more air resistance. I can't get better than 21-22 out of my 7 year newer Cherokee.

Be aware that with a locked rear axle in the snow it is REAL easy to fish tail (intentionally or not) when making a turn from a still stand (stop sign/traffic light etc). Especially with no weight over the rear axle like a p/u truck. This will not prevent me from installing an Aussie in the rear of my MJ, but it would prevent me from putting a non selectable locker in the rear of anything my daughter would drive in the snow.

If you get a 30" glass pack, and don't put it behind a 4 cylinder, they are not too loud. The loud ones are the little 12" ones.

ZJ rear disc brakes are a direct bolt on for a D35 or D44. If you enlarge the 2 3/4" center hole to 3", they will bolt to an 8.25" as well (that's what I did). Disc brakes need more pressure than drum, so you want to replumb the rear lines using the ZJ proportioning valve as well. The brackets and backing plates must come from a stealership or junk yard, everything else is available from parts stores.

The only difference between 4H and 4L is gearing. 4L has a 1:2.72 gear reduction. 4wd on ice makes it easier to get going, as well as keep going straight. Turning on ice in 4wd does not work very well. With a front locker, turning on ice in 4wd is near impossible. 4wd forces the front and rear axle to spin at the same speed. When turning, the front wheels make a larger diameter arc than the rear wheels and thus need to spin faster. That's where the problem lies.

I have learned the hard way (multiple times) that I can NOT own anything like that if I wish to live more than a few weeks. Same with fast bikes, dirt bikes, powerful cars and anything having to do with combining a motorcycle, a waterski rope and a skate board. Also Radio Flyers combined with steep hills, and go-karts with a top speed >60mph. Sure looks cool, though.

I ran a Cherry Bomb (the original glass pack, not the "turbo" muffler) on my F100 for 7 years until I wrecked it. Ran a Thrush glass pack on my Suburban and currently run one on The Pig in line with the stock muffler (no cat, needed more length to make it to the exhaust hanger.) Run a Cherry Bomb glass pack on an otherwise stock exhaust on Booger. I don't care what it sounds like. I'm a cheapskate and therefore go with what's available cheap. The only vehicle I bought a stock replacement muffler for was my Geo Prizm. $9.95, came with a 999 month (yes, you read that right) warranty. The stock muffler that was on my Olds 98 when I bought it outlasted the car.

After you drive 330 or 350 miles, how much gas does it take to fill up? Do you have a fuel leak? First guesses would be O2 sensor and coolant temp sensor (the one for the ECU, not the one for the dash gauge), either could cause the ECU to stay in open loop.

I don't call myself an American. Never have either. I'm a Dutchman who happens to live and work in America.