oldseddie

Too bad you're not in WNC. I have a block and crank to get shed of.

Sorry I saw screw and thought you were talking about the ground post and not the bezel nut.

The trim nut that retains the switch may nut be tight.

I would use pag oil as it will work with r12 if you decide to change it over later.

I have wondered if xj tail light lenses could be removed and made to fit mj back part. Has anyone had them both side by side?

Have you checked the distributor indexing. I threw parts at and pulled my hair out trying to fix my 87 chief. Follow cruiser54's instructions. I can't believe how much better my mj runs with the injectors timed properly.

Never mind. You want rear not fronts. Sorry.

I got new ones at the dealer for my 87 Chief. They weren't crazy expensive either.

I found a late model aluminum radiator in my parts stash with place for renix temp sender. Runs much cooler than the brass 2 core.

We would need to know a little bit about your jeep. What year and engine are you working on?

Since your in Asheville you can bring it by my brothers dive shop Bermuda Triangle and I can check it for you. You need to get a low pressure side adapter as it is not a standard fitting. I would recommend getting a couple of r134a adaptors at Napa and green orings as the r12 best low pressure adapter is hard to find. I have to borrow one from a friend in Black Mtn. Pm me and we can discuss plans for checking it out.

I wouldn't go throwing parts at it just yet. You should get a manifold and vacuum pump and pull it down as low as it will go and see how long it will hold. To convert to r134a refrigerant with stop leak you need to replace all the orings with newer type and drain old oil as it is not compatible. Probably the evaporator as that is one of the most fun jobs you will ever do on a jeep.

Maybe toed out a little. Toe in makes it stable and toe out makes it wander down the road. Checked the alignment lately?

Well it's been a month. What was the outcome?

Soft aluminum seal washers not crush rings on my 97 ax15.

The are supposed to be seal washers between the plugs and tranny case.

You should look into an a stg556 or Tabor bullpup. More accurate and fit into properly sized trucks.

Could be warn steering gear. They are adjustable but if you aren't familiar with a Saginaw box you can make it worse.

I know a retired Oldsmobile service rep that moved to OK and has a barn full of Olds. Let me know when you are up to working on it and I can get you his number. He does Hershey every year and knows who has what.

I've got a 69 Hurst/Olds and I'm scared to drive it for just this kind of thing. Nice Olds BTW.

JKS makes the best track bar for stock hight mj and xj jeeps. I have tried several and their's doesn't induce bump steer.

Rail has been acquired. Thanks.

Have you done this yet. The mopar replacement "demonic balancer" requires you to pull the timing cover and remove a spacer for it to install properly. I'm not sure if the Dorman is the same.

I'll try to do a write up with part numbers but we are going to Charleston next week for some fishing. It took cutting down the rail fitting and fabricating a mount. The first mount was 16 ga aluminum but I am making a stronger one out of stainless. The Aeromotive FPR was around $120 and the rail fitting was around $20. I upgraded my return line to -an braided flex but I think the original hard line can be made to work. I intend to adapt the rail to a 99+ intake for my stroker as the late model rails have hot soak fuel issues. The Renix rail flows fuel through it and this cools it down. It cost me more to do this than Hesco's but it is of much higher quality and adds 50 HP in bling factor alone.

I am new at posting pictures so bare with me as I attempt to shows a few more shots.