Cabz

I am looking for a 91+ D30 , just to try and get a newer maybe less worn out front end . I also want to stay away from the older style D30 with the adjusters under the lower ball joint. I actualy prefer a CAD axle It makes running a lockrite a lot smoother on the street

:D I got it :D I can hardly wait , just gotta find a good D30 3.55 gears they seem to be scarce round here :?

I am currently running 31's on 15 x7 rims and only rub a hair when driving in a ditch/swail nose first.

They look Saweet! I can hardly wait to get em on, just waiting on a 3.55 d30 to go with my MJ d44 goaan do a lift and axle swap all in one . I am just tryin to get my homework done before the big day :D

I just got me rustys 4" rear packs today :D they sent the tcase lowering kit and 2.5 * angle shims . my question is do I need them? and on the tcase drop kit they only have two aluminium blocks doesnt the MJ have 4 spots that the crossmemeber attaches too?. If so what do I do about the other too locattions? block them too or do what rustys sugjested and not worry about them ? :?

I think I may have this one solved . Pete you where right about the vac leak :-D Just not on the engine , The vac booster for my brakes has a nasty leak ( can you say 96 XJ brake booster/MC upgrade time :D ) this is causeing a high idle sometimes. Also when I got the MJ the old owner had adjusted the alllen screw to adjust the idle ( engine on the way out ) . I think what is happening to make the MJ breath is that the allen screw is still not set right , but the TPS want to keeps the jeep at stock idle rpm . what the TPS is doing is adjusting the idle speed and when it gets to idle speed it slacks off ( PCM wise that is ) then the idle drops a hair and it starts all over . thats where I am so far

I had to swap a backing plate from one XJ d44 to my New MJ d44 the brakes where 10" / 2.5" wide the D35 I have are 10" /1.75" wide I called to see I could use the d35 baking plates and was told no. It would be a nice time for a ZJ disk upgrade though :D

I tried replaceing that as well, I actualy pulled the TB and scrubbed the snot out of it :D

Yup :-D I think I am going to try and adjust the idle speed up a hair and see what that gives me .

wd-40- carb cleaner- and a rather fun way :shock: by useing acetelene gas with a hose it works the same as wd without the mess . I alos had amanifold vac gauge hooked up the whole time to eyeball and changes in vac I have also read the plugs a dozen times and they show a perfect tan tip on all 6 no white/gray from being lean .

Nope :D after I had the intake modified I checked that area thuroghly no vac leaks anywhere. The breathing has been an issue as lokng as I have owned the ole girl, and to this point it has not been an issue. it seems like ever since I had to change the CPS it has been a little squirlier than normal. It might just be time to reset the PCM

They do :D , I set it with a friends snap on MT2500 scanner . Thats when I checked everything else and found everything to be working to spec :?

Tps is new, map sensor swapped out several times ( for giggles ) vac leaks no :? I was a little nuts checking for vac leaks when I Modifyed the intake to work on the H.O head so I know I don't have any of those . I have a 91 HO engine running the Renix FI system with ford 19LB injectors just to clarify a bit more. I just unhooked the EGR solinoid and vac sensor on the air cleaner to see if I had an issue with one of them , I will drive it tommorrow and see the MJ also has a new O2 sensor CPS idle speed control solinoid.

One of the only issues I have with my MJ is getting worse. Ever since I have owned it ( and put the new engine in ) the engine breathes, The idle will go up and down about 250 rpm's up and down up and down lately it has taken to stalling when I push in the clutch at higher speeds ( in the process of slowing down ) any Ideas what it could be? I have had it on a scanner and everything shows normal. most every sensor is new

What you want to figure out is your plan for your MJ and rebuild the rear to that plan . The best option would be the 8.8 ( unless you find an MJ d44 )for the long term toughness. another option would be to find an XJ chrysler 8.25 ( 98+have 29 spline shafts ) that would be an easier find. Being as you have limited cash flow the 8.25 would be the best option , Just consider though everytime I or other people I know have tried to do anything on the "cheap to get by" usualy resulted in haveing to do it again. good luck

I called rustys today and ordered my MJ lift :D , 4.5" with the 4" rear packs. I also have a line on a warn winch bumper for the ole girl, hopefully in the next two weeks I'll have it lifted and set. Is there anything I should be wary of when lifting the MJ, any problems I might run into? the ole MJ has no rust and so far everything I have had to unbolt has come off with ease ( of course now that I have said that :shock: )

I need a photo to ID the bar, I know how they attach as mine had one before I got it. And yes proof they exist would make me happy ( and convince me I'm not nutz! ) I definalty want a factory bar just to keep it as original as possible.

Found this by accident seems to be some sort of school reaserch site. Give it a try. http://arrc.epnet.com/autoasp/index.asp ... .auto.auto user= auto password=auto then go to auto repair

8) Sounds good to me :D

BTT come on guys someone has to have a pic of a lwb rollbar? . I am begining to think they are a myth :? . Does anyone have a lwb and swb MJ ? if you do can you measure from the bed wall ( cab side ) to the first wheel well seam in the bed? Maybe they all use the same bar? I think the lwb has more space than the swb from wheel well to bed wall but I am not sure.

My wife likes my heeps she's not as fond of the MJ as she is the YJ though. She doesnt drive long vehicles well, and since the MJ lwb is as long as a football field when compared to the YJ :roll: .the shorty is the one that gets the nod :)

Damn :evil: too bad it's for a shortbed :evil: :evil:

on the 97 that sensor is also for the ECM to read engine temp , so chances are it is very inacurate . Take the old temp sending unit that was in the old head and get a brass adaptor that will let it screw into the Tstat houseing ( 1/8th fine ID threads / to 3/8 th's or 1/2 OD in the plumbing section of hardware stores) and then extend the ole wiring to it. .

I just sent too pics :) Lemme know what ya think

Man I thought I had one :evil: :evil: :evil: and for $100.00 it would have been a sweet deal , Maybe some one will have a pic they can post up so I can ID the right one when I see it.