joester1908

So a high flow cat and muffler would be the best option?

I plan on upgrading the TB, the injectors, and replacing the exhaust. would I be better off deleting the cat and doing a high flow muffler? Or doing a high flow cat and muffler? I'm looking for MPGs but not making it too loud

It must have been HO.

There's a guy who always posts 62mm TBs on Jeep Cherokee XJs For All on Facebook

Ahhh ok! Cool

I have a stock TB and it whistles :laughin: I am definitely going to order one of these! Thanks

Hmmmm I don't believe so. Did you put a volt meter on the light socket? I bought my '88 and it had no dash lights, I checked the fuses, looked for shorts, etc, but it ended up the bulbs were just burnt out...

I did a SOA with a D44. I put 5.5 inch coils in the front. rear is a little bit higher

I had this same issue on my 88 Cherokee. There is a dash light fuse. It seems to me like if your fuse box shorted, it would just pop the fuses. The harness to the heater for us Renix guys are known for melting at the plug on the heater control. I believe the dash light fuse is a 5a. Id check that.

Just read through your build! Loving your Comanche :thumbsup: what made you go for the auto?

The day after it was finished, my dad and I drove it to Discount Tire again, and we got the wheels I picked out. I ended up finding a few little trim pieces but other than that I didn't do much to the MJ between then and the time I got my license. However, bout 2 weeks after getting my license I drove my truck off road for the first time. Stopped to get Discovery Passes. (The Cherokee was my dads) It was pretty obvious that the offset wheels made a mess of the side of the Jeep My dad lost a mirror to a tree I really was impressed with this little MJ! It took a lot of abuse and did very well for its pretty much stock form A few weeks later I drove down south about an hour because I found a really good deal on a roll bar with 4 100w halogens. It came out of a Comanche. Another flex test revealed the offset fixed the rubbing issue. I ended up getting an aftermarket deck and a CB. Install went pretty well. Notice the blank spot where the floor shifter goes? My plan was a manual swap at some point, so i just left it blank..

At this point, I was paying my dad monthly for the tires and the truck. We had $1500 in to our F250, so we said the buying price for the MJ was also $1500. Being only 15, I didn't have a real job, so cash was pretty tight. But I worked on a few different farms outside of town and saved up little by little to work on the Comanche. The first thing I decided to tackle was the rust issue. I was afraid a rock would bounce up through the floor pans or something, so that was something I decided to work on first. I could do a whole thread just on the floor pans (which I plan to do...so I'll keep it brief). I started by ripping out the seats, center console, and what was left of the carpet. Here's what the floor pans looked like.. Next, i got out the grinder and tried to figure out what was surface and what was rusted through.. I determined that the driver's side was savable, but I would have to cut out the passenger side and get whole new floor pans. A trip to Napa auto parts got me a spot weld drill bit I started drilling away. The floor brace was a pain....a few days of drilling after school and I got the floor brace out.... I found a set of floor pans off the internet. My plan was to completely do the passenger side, and just patch the drivers. Once all the rust was cut out, I painted the inside of the frame rails with POR15 so I hopefully wouldn't ever have to do this ever again..... Luckily, inside of the frame rail had no rust at all, it was just the floor pans. They didn't fit perfectly, so i ended up cutting them vertically and then messaging them in to place... I searched and searched online for a replacement floor brace (with no luck, obviously) so my dad and i welded up this brace which we welded/bolted in to place. And we also rewelded the seat bolts in. Then, I painted over the floor pans with more POR15, and used calking over the seams so it would be water tight. I did a similar thing on the driver's side. I painted over the old floor pans, then we cut the new pans to fit, welded/epoxied them in, and painted it again with POR15. I bought bucket seats from a Cherokee to replace the bench. My brackets were rusted through, so I decided to use some spacers for the seat. I welded in the brace and welded a new seat bolt in. Once it was all dry, I cleaned and threw the carpet in (it was also from a Cherokee, I trimmed it) Here it is all put together

After a flex test, it was obvious I needed more offset wheels. Not bad for an add-a-leaf and longer coils with stock control arms :thumbsup: Notice the rear doesnt stuff much, it was rubbing on the frame rail.

The next day, my dad drove it in to work and got 4 31x10.5R15 Duratracs put on the stock wheels. We figured I'd need some offset, but thought we would give it a try.

The Jeep had sat in a field for a few years, the front windshield leaked water really bad, and all of the window seals were bad. Perfect formula for rust.

Here's the rocker And there was some sketchy front suspension I took these the night I got it

I bought my 1990 Comanche Pioneer the first of September, 2012. My neighbor bought it from a guy the next town over about a month prior to that. My dad had a Cherokee and his best friend had a YJ, and we went 4 wheeling all the time. I really wanted to get something I could take off road with them. I my dad had a 1980 Ford F250 4x4 with a 400 and a 4 speed manual that was supposed to be my first truck, but I was 15 at the time and didn't have my license. Back to the Comanche, it was a 4L, 4wd, AW4, short box. Had just over 237k on it. Lifted about 3 inches. My neighbor showed it to me when he first got it and I fell in love. It had a rod knock (which is why he got it so cheap), floor pans rusted through on passenger side, dents behind the tail lights from when it was rear ended, the passenger rocker panel was smashed from it being abused off road. He has a friend who works at a local 4x4 junk yard, so he got a good deal on a Renix with (supposedly) 150k miles. My neighbor drove it for a month and decided he wanted something full size. So my dad traded the F250 for the Comanche. Pictures coming...

I left it open because I knew I was gonna do a manual swap. While I still had the space, I used it as a cup holder. I was planning on putting a piece of metal over it, drilling some holes for actual cup holders, but the manual swap happened sooner than I expected :thumbsup:

Hey guys, I just installed a Rough Country 4-6 inch long arm on my 1990 MJ Pioneer. The crossmember ended up being a problem so I thought I would let you guys know what I did to fix it. The cross member bolted up (but the front bolts needed tapping). The problem was in the L shaped frame bracket included with the kit. The Cherokees don't have the floor brace (down the middle of the floor and to the pinch weld), so I had to cut the L bracket and drill a new hole. Other than that the install went great and everything else bolts up just fine. I will post up a few pics when I get back on my computer (I'm at school :laughin: )

i put a wagoneer header on my Comanche. I found a blue one and it matches my truck. I left the fenders and doors the same though so i can still have the factory Pioneer stripe. I'm at school but ill get on my computer at home and post up a photo of my swap. Super easy and bolt on.

Ok so I'm sure there are tons of threads on lifts but mine is a little different... I have a 1990 Comanche short bed with a 3 (ish) lift on 33s The 33s rub and I want to lift my truck more. I have a 5.5 inch short arm Rubicon Express lift that i could install on my Comanche that came off my dads Cherokee (he "upgraded" to a TJ..ahaha) At the same time as a lift my Jeep, I am also swapping to an AX15, installing Dana 44s front and rear, ARBs, etc. In other words, i want to do it all at the same time so i only have to have 1 set of driveshafts made... Now that you know all of that, here's my question: How much lift should I do? The local 4x4 shop has a long arm kit that they sell for 800 bucks and I hear they are great. Soooo i was thinking i could get rid of the parts of my RE kit I didnt need, buy that kit, 7 inch coils, and go SOA in the rear. I have been told that SOA will give me 4 inches. So that would be 4 from SOA and 3 from my leaf. Equalling 7. But would 7 inches of lift look weird with my brand new 33 inch KM2s? My other option would be to do the SOA and use a stock leaf. Then get that long arm kit and get 4 inch coils. The cheapest option would be to use my 5.5 RE kit and do the SOA and get a block and a shackle with a stock spring in the rear. But some day I do want to go long arm, and I'm always getting caught up on the frame (and smashing rockers...) when I'm wheeling. Bottom line is, my Comanche needs more lift. I would love your guys' opinions on what i should do and how much lift is really necessary... I'm in WA state and there are a lot of rocks and tree roots her on tight trails. Thanks!

Hey, I got my Comanche as my first vehicle over a year ago. I never have done a build thread on it so I thought I'd start here. More to come..

How easy is it to remove this? Mine seems to brake fine but i just disconnected the rod from the axle to the bar of metal. I don't want the system on there? Is there a thread? thanks