joester1908

That makes sense to me. I haven't done much research on lift springs because I did SOA.

a set of H4? Let me know, that would be awesome!

88whitemanche, (can't quote on school computer) thanks for the link! Those newegg "Headlights Non-Sealed H4701/H4703 Headlights" are exactly what I've been looking for.

I've seen a few D30 ring/pinions grenade once you lock them up on 35s or so. I just happened in to the TJ D44 and jumped on it. Works good for me. But there are definitely stronger axles out there. I have had good luck with the D44 so far, knock on wood lol

Thank you!

I have a Wagoneer header panel on my Comanche. It bolts right in. The headlights aren't as bright as the regular XJ/MJ, but they're decent. Your best bet is going to junk yards and looking for them. No one (that I have found) makes replacement parts. And eBay wants an arm and a leg for parts. Also, if you swap, half the people are gonna say "what an ugly grill!" or "Love the Jeep, ditch the grill!". I personally like it so I don't really care. Hahah Here's my MJ

Link to TPS adjustment, just in case you need it. http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1072534

Try adjusting your TPS with a multimeter. If you can't get it in the correct range, then I'd say start thinking about replacing it. They're right, most likely it has been replaced already.

I did an SOA and got 6 inches of lift with a Dana 44 and a Trail Gear leaf spring perch. I did a ton of research on SOA, no one gives you the same number. It depends on the thickness of the axle (D35, D44 8.25, 8.8 all different size), what perch you go with, what springs you run, the condition of your stock ones, etc. I did a ton of research on lifts, and I didn't see too many kits that jumped out at me. That's why I went with SOA. What's your hesitation with AAL or SOA? I had AAL when I bought it, everyone says how rough they ride, but I haven't noticed a difference from AAL to SOA. I would be surprised if most companies wouldn't sell just the rear leaves. But if you go that path, I would highly recommend Rubicon Express shocks, coils, and track bar. Even if you decided to go with someone else for the control arms.

I have a TJ Dana 44 front axle. YES it is the same from the Cs out. The difference is the size of the ring and pinion. D44 is bigger. D44 has larger 30 spline axle shafts, while D30 is 27. But the U joint is the same, and is also the weak link. I have heavy duty Spicer U joints and Chromoly axle shafts. But it is low pinion. I wish it was HP. The reason they were LP (so I've heard) is for front drive shaft clearance?

4.0L 5-Speed, 4.56 gears on 35s

That would be awesome! I have sooo much I want to do on this thing, but I want to keep it looking like a pickup too. lol

Finally got some 2 door seats for my MJ! I wanted 2 door because they flip forward, and you can actually access behind the seat... The driver's is missing the adjustment handle.

I took some pictures of the Cherokee, and I've already swapped the 2 door seats in my MJ :rotf:

The seats from a 97 have different brackets than your 87 seats. But I do recommend 2 door, because they flip forward.

Thanks for the info!

hmmm what issues are you having? Like none of them work? Some of them work? That's obviously an issue, id try to see if you can get it to make a contact. Are any wires melted?

The horror stories are mostly wildly exaggerated. The BA10/5 is not the ideal transmission of you expect to run huge tires and always hammer on the stupid peddle. Otherwise, driven more or less sanely, it's just fine. My '88 Cherokee has the BA10/5. It currently has a bit over 287,000 miles on it. Gear lube has been changed once in its lifetime. I've carried HEAVY loads from New England all the way to New Mexico. It's been off-roaded in Connecticut, Massachusetts, Rhode Island, Paragon in Pennsylvania, and northern New Mexico. I don't doubt that's true. I am real easy on the skinny pedal, actually. Like I said, I don't plan on wheeling it at all. I think it will be ok. The body has a few dents from wheeling it. Totally worth it for $700

I didn't take any, but here are the ones from his ad yep, I love the pattern of the seats.

I guess that makes since. If its not broke, don't fix it.

I'm buying an 87 Cherokee Chief this week. It's a 2 door with 190k on it. It has a D44 rear axle, no rust. 4.0 liter, BA10 and NP231. I drove the thing around the neighborhood and got it up to speed. The transmission shifts perfectly. Doesn't grind, pop out of gear, or anything. Visually, it is a smaller diameter than my AX15 in the Comanche, but how bad is it really? Obviously, I've heard the horror stories about them. What do you guys think?

I ran to home depot today and picked up all the stuff I needed to install my air compressor and my air horns. The ARB compressor has a little mini tank with 3 fittings on it. 2 of them have solenoids on them for the air lockers. Then there is one that is just open, which I have a female air hose fitting on that goes to a 10 gallon air tank, that has a valve, a male and a female fitting. So I open the valve and have 10 gallons of air in the system. But I have the compressor mounted to some plywood that I put in my bed when I go 4 wheeling, then uninstall. Every time.... My plan is to build a metal box that will go on the wall of the bed (under the roll bar) that will house the compressor. It will be secure and weather proof so I can leave it year round. But the bottom will have a vent or something so it can breathe. So from the 3rd fitting will be a T. One end hooks to the compressor, one to my horns, and one to my air tank, which has the male fitting on it for the air line so I can run air tools and air up tires. The air tank will also be on a regular air hose, so I can disconnect it if needed. That's why I bought that cheap air hose from home depot. I'm gonna use part of it to hook my compressor to the tank, and I'm giving the rest to my dad for his air compressor setup. Enough typing, I did start installing the air horn today. When I did my manual swap, the column I used didn't have cruise control, and I don't think it even worked. So I'm going to use the bracket for that for the horns. I re ran the harness over the MAP sensor, hiding some speaker wires, and I was able to neatly tuck away the harness just in case I decided I wanted cruise control again. I blocked off the vacuum line too. As you can see, I used an L shaped bracket included with the horns for the back side, for stiffness. I'm going to need to put a 90 on the top of the horns.

I got my sliders out, ground off the bolt I welded on, then my dad sanded and primed the entire thing while I helped my brother change his oil. I think I'm going to fully install one side before starting on the other. That way I can learn on one side, instead of make the same mistake twice. One slider is ready for installment, the other is cut to size but needs the caps welded on, then primed. So that's a project for next weekend. It's not like I can even drive the Jeep with the blown up Flex Joint anyways...

My birthday was last week, so my friends, dad, and I went up to Walker Valley and went 4 wheeling. I blew out the driver's side lower Flex Joint. Guess it's time to look in to the Currie.... But my dad bought me some Kleinn air horns for the Jeep! They have the solenoid on them, so all you have to do is hook up air, power and ground. Really excited to get those working!

Ok, so I went wheeling today and I blew up the lower Flex Joint. Completely trashed. I'll post a photo. But I was researching the link I provided for the Currie Johnny Joints. I'm noticing that I have like 2.5 inches of thread sticking out of the LCA, while the Currie ones only have 2.5 inches of thread. Notice the difference in the RC Flex Joints? http://www.jeep4x4center.com/rough-country-lower-control-arm-flex-joint-rc-j110.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=productfeed&utm_campaign=cse&gclid=CjwKEAiAhcGjBRDot_fjjtPKrgsSJACNYh76l025gzdGv_7XvjsMwq1uZ8f_BIrIItjhIUUIy709sBoCYpDw_wcB