CWLONGSHOT

I have known about this piece of trash that owns CITGO OIL CO. and haven't bought a drop in over three years now. Here is a copy of an email I just received: IN ORLANDO LAST WEEK, AT A CITGO STATION, REGULAR GAS WAS PRICED AT$2.82 PER GALLON, AND NO CUSTOMERS. HOWEVER, ACROSS THE STREET FUEL WAS SELLING FOR $2.85 PER GALLON AND ALL PUMPS THERE HAD CARS WAITING TO FUEL UP. What's going on? Word is getting around!!!!! Read on: Have you noticed how the CITGO signs have disappeared in the past 7-8 months? A very clever move by Chavez.. But guess what, "CITGO" IS CHANGING ITS NAME, too... This is serious, Americans,....make sure you read this very carefully.. NEWS FLASH: Chavez is NOW getting a Russian Weapons Factory built by Putin. The RUSSIANS are building an AK -47 Kalashnikov Assault Rifle factory in Venezuela , to give armament support to Communist Rebel groups throughout the Americas .. Chavez NOW has IRANIANS operating his oil refineries in Venezuela for him. It is likely only a matter of time, if not already, before Chavez has Iranian built LONG RANGE missiles, with a variety of warhead types aimed at: Guess Who? CITGO is NOW in the process of Changing Its Name to "PETRO EXPRESS" due to the loss of gasoline sales in the USA ......due to the recent publicity of ownership by that big headed spic Chavez of Venezuela. Every dollar you spend with ''CITGO" or "PETRO EXPRESS" gasoline will be used against you, your basic human rights, and your freedoms. He will start wars here in the Americas that will probably be the death of millions. THIS IS VERY IMPORTANT because Chavez is starting to feel the loss of revenue from his holdings. HE OWNS "CITGO". This is a very important move that everyone should be aware of. ANNOUNCED JUST RECENTLY: "CITGO", BEING AWARE THAT SALES ARE DOWN DUE TO U.S. CUSTOMERS NOT WANTING TO BUY FROM 'CITGO-CHAVEZ', HAVE STARTED TO CHANGE THE NAME OF SOME OF THEIR STORES TO: 'PETRO EXPRESS'. DO NOT BUY FROM "PETRO EXPRESS" EITHER!!! 'PETRO EXPRESS' IS ALSO 100% OWNED BY "CHAVEZ." KEEP THIS MEMO GOING SO THAT EVERYONE KNOWS WHAT IS HAPPENING... BOTTOM LINE,-- BOYCOTT "CITGO" & "PETRO EXPRESS" please!! PLEASE MAKE SURE THIS IS PASSED ON TO EVERYONE IN YOUR E-MAIL LIST IN THE UNITED STATES AND OUTSIDE OF AMERICA .

WELCOME TO THE CLUB!!! Thats a nice clean long bed you have there!! CW

The tell tale thing with mine was the leak. I knew if it shifted it would cause a leak, but thought I had secured it before tightening. . . so I figured it was caused by the lack of a good coat of indian head cement on the block. It was so freaking cold it simply wouldn't stick to the block!!! This time I warmed the cement and engine before repairing. CW

Same here, 46" SONY.. only I'm on call this weekend, so its very likely I'll be called away...... Just picked up the wings and meatballs, just a couple friends over, nothing big... My Cowboys screwed the pooch so GO SAINTS!! :yes: CW

UPDATE: Yesterday on the way to work I noticed a puff or two of steam from under the hood at a light... Got to work, popped the hood and found my leak had returned and was even a bit faster.... :headpop: :headpop: SO as I am on call this week, I have today off so I pulled off the water neck to reseal and guess what!?!?! . . . . . . . . . THE FREAKIN' STAT SLIPPED during the last install!!! :fs1: Resulting in kinda like no stat as some of the fluid bypassed the stat. The stat was not damaged and its all back together. WITH A FIRM UPPER HOSE!!!! :banana: Time for a road test, but I think its fine as no leaks detected and the temp warmed up nicely. Same temps, but now I can see when the stat opens as the temp climbs and then drops to just above that middle hash mark. Just as before. Guess I WASN'T over thinking it after all!!! :redX: :shake: CW

BJA 814, Dude, I must say while it may not be the purdyest MJ here I LIKE IT!! I have a folder on my laptop labeled JEEP PIX and in there is a folder labeled awesome jeep shots, your last pic just made the folder. I LOVE the military look of it!!! :bowdown: :bowdown: :bowdown: Any idea who made/makes those bed rails? I like that look too!! :brows: CW

Freak out, naw, smile with pride a bit maybe. Thanks again for the compliments!! :cheers: CW

Welding leads are usually of the same hi quality as the fine stranded cable I used. Just look at it in comparison and remember, DC electric (like a car has) is like a water pipe, larger pipe flows better, and since there is no "pressure" in electric using larger never hurts. CW

Thanks man, but there an many GREAT builds here!! CW

Do you mean XJ-Maki? Bic is a member of my club!! CW

Dude, you need some punctuation!! My spell checker doesn't much like your posts! LOL :brows: That is what I am trying to tell you. The steering stabilizer CANNOT cause DW. BUT, it CAN do a good job of masking it, making it SEEM you solved the problem. Finding the worn bushing PROVES that!! Check out your suspension, I GUARANTEE you have other or multiple worn parts. ;) Stabilizers where added from the factory for just this propose, to mask any minor issues with this. In an effort to keep warranty repair costs down. It is a band aid, not a cure. If you like it and want to run one fine, I do, but don't be fooled into thinking it is cause or cure, cause it jut ain't so. There are many suspensions just like ours that do not run stabilizers and they are just fine. On my own, I didn't run one for some time. I chose to add one because I like the "smoothness" it provides off road in the bumps. Also all stabilizers are not created equal! OME makes a great one!! CW

The variable in needing to shorten the shaft or not is lift. When I ran the 4" Rustys leafs, (Closer to 5") I was fine with the stock length shaft with my D44 swap. Later after the RUSTYS crap broke, when I installed the Motion 4.5" pack the shaft was too long. I had used MOPAR perches on the 44 and was able to do just as FUBAR mentioned and move the axle back an inch or so to the rear most homes in the perch. All you need to do this when utilizing a XJ D44 is new perches and lower shock mounts. I recommend the MOPAR perches, as stated they have multiple holes and are very stout and CHEAP!!! They are made for the larger 8.25 tube, but a little time with a grinder will have them fitting the smaller D4 tube just fine. now tack them on. Lower shock mounts can be fabbed up a couple ways. Mounts are available form many places. Rubicon express makes a nice set not too expensive. CW

Mine on my '89 is cracked and leaking badly. I REALLY notice it now that the water pump and idler are SO quiet!! I was just going to pull it and reweld it up. But at under $150 for a replacement, guess I'll change my plans!! :smart: I have done a couple header installs on 4L jeeps and the one thing you MUST have is a set of ratchet wrenches. Also someone with skinny arms is quite helpful. I have had a young neighbor hood kid help me with the later twice now. :clapping: CW

You just haven't been around here long enough! :redX: :brows: :D VOLUMES have been written on the subject, trust me!! :smart: Two things that are absolutely for certain, sway bars and steering stabulizers have ZERO to do with this problem. Steering stabulizers can MASK the problem, bet will NEVER cause or solve this problem. Do a search, use death wobble as a topic and EAGLE as an author... you will see! :shake: :typing: IMHO, Most people experience Death Wobble right after a lift, when nothing else has changed. This points directly at CASTER as the culprit. Likely combined with any of an array of other problem parts. Such as worn CA bushings, tie rod ends, ball joints, track bar joints, steering boxes and as Eagle already mentioned.. Tire ballance and allighnment. Mvusse gave it to you straight, get someone behind the wheel and you get under the frontend. have them forcefully steer back and fourth. You will likely see something amiss. But this will not show you the caster problem. A good alignment while having the caster adjusted will likely solve the issue along with changing any bad parts found will likely cure your problem. CW

Yep! This is just the charging wire from the alternator to the battery. Its about the dia of your Lil finger. Where as the stock #8 is less than a 1/4". The stockers amperage runs 60/80/90 amps, mine is 200 amps, so it would use that Lil #8 like a fuse and melt it. :eek: My battery cables are made from hospital "X RAY" wires. This wire is full of very fine wires, many, many more than regular battery cables. Its roughly 2/0 size or bigger than your thumb. I used "marine" style battery lugs. This allowed me to crimp/solder on cable ends not bulkier, harder to use battery lugs. Shrink tubing sealed up all connections. CW

Anthony, If you read my recent writeup on a different pressure bottle. Kinda makes mine a hybrid open/close system. For me it made more sense as I recently purchased and installed a closed 3core radiator. Anyway I mention it as I bought a overflow bottle form summit, made by dorman #100-603 for 11$!! You can ditch that mt dew bottle!! CW

Not sure, but modding yours is simple. I have made up a couple sets in the past. Simply cut yours and add a sleeve between the two pieces then weld it back together. Done!! CW

I read that your looking for shackles on the cheap. I hear that, but just wanna suggest the upgrade to JKS or similar XJ 1.5" lift shackles. Esp look for the "boomerang" style. As you may know stock XJ shackles are shorter then the factory MJ's by over 2", so a 1.5 to 1.75 XJ lift shackle will work out to just about STOCK SIZE for our MJ's. These are way stout and in the "boomerang" style get you a better angle for better ride!! Just sayin, CW

I like Comanche Club Image Hosting Free to join and easy to use. CW

I'm kinda late to this party. But its glad to hear you figured it out. I was going to say its not impossible he hooked it up wrong, but not likely as its one plug and one stud lug. No way to do it backwards or wrong really. I swapped mine out back when or around the time the winch went in. I got mine off EBay too. Mine is a 200 amp. I made up a set of custom cables at the same time as the factory 8 Ga charge wire is NOT ADEQUATE for this much power!! I needed a #4!!! WHAT A DIFFERENCE the new cables made!!! If yours are old or even original, consider a new set!! CW

Thanks man, We threw that together as an after thought after building the rear bumper. It 4" sprinkler pipe. You can see the 90degree elbows welded on for the corners. Then I took a 6' section of 1.25" poop pipe and with a 1.5" bi metal hole saw, chopped off a 8" piece. Then came back to the chop saw and chopped a second. This got me two "uprights" with birds mouths ready to go. Then I doug around in the nuts and bolts till I found two giant bolts. I stuck them in the ends of the cross tube and burned them on/in. For mounting I welded on a piece of heavy 2" angle iron to the bottom and drilled mounting holes. Its now on my XJ I built up a couple years ago. My pop drove it as he was got back on his feet after my mom passed. I don't drive it much now, its a "extra" vehicle for us. The wife likes it for taking the dogs to the very as they can get in it by them selves. (Its lower to the ground) CW

IIRC, Rusty's 3" coils up front, factory leafs out back with day-star extended shackle out back. So technically, it was a leveling type of lift with a bit extra out back. The shackle is about 8" eye to eye so it nets ya about 1.5" of lift. BDS shocks up front and Rancho's out back. 31x10.5x15 BFG AT tires on 15X8 AR steel rims. Check my build thread, It pretty much covers all the changes from day one back in 2005. CW

Thanks man!! Just like lots of guys on here, it was allot of hard and enjoyable work!! I have a couple shots from '06 when it had a 3" lift on 31's and it flexed pretty good than as well... Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found CW

Dakal, I too see this everyday. (I also work @ a non profit rehabilitation hospital.) CW

Thanks man!! CW