CWLONGSHOT

GREAT JOB!! Congratulations on a very nicely built (ing) MJ!! CW

Just a note... 4:88's and a hard core wheeler in a D30 will likely equal troubles... That pinion is MIGHTY small!! IMHO, if crawl ratios are what you want, go 4:56 for better strength and drop in a 4:1 in the T case. CW

I killed my Red Top Optima yesterday....... :wall: :doh: :wall: :fs1: :fs1: :fs1: Found that the batt hold down had loosened, allowing the pos side, side terminal to ever-so slightly contact the rear hold down bolt. Effectively discharging the battery...dead, dead, dead!!! $200+ bucks...right down the tubes... I tossed in one of my extra boat batteries, (Reg car battery) till I get out to get another Optima. Gotta go Yellow or Blue top this time!! CW

Morning neighbor, You say cheap and easy? Nones easier, just toss in a set of spacers like 600$ jeep said... CW

I have one here, in Connecticut... kinda far I think... 3;55's and a lock rite! CW

Hows that B8 runnin'? (STILL love to build a street 2WD, tubbed, shortened 9", "B8" manche!! Lo wide and bad arsed.) CW

:thumbsup: ;) UPDATE: dasbulliwagen, I agree with you! This is a work in progress and somewhat of a test. thats why I did it in such a way that I can return to stock. I have now driven it a bout 50 miles. DEFINEATE improvement off and at idle. More grunt climbing hills and the little hesitations are all but gone. So maybe I will invest in the Rocket tube for $150.... I'll drive it some more first... :banana: CW

Trust me when I tell you little PO's me more or faster than someone late or missing an appointment. EVERYONE'S time is valuable, its flatly disrespectful to be late. I don't want to have to wait for any MF'r who isn't prompt, doesn't care or office help that over books. Since my HA last year I'm at one doc or another every couple weeks/Mo. I ALWAYS take the first appointment of the day. Its worked great for me!!! CW

Best way (If you cannot do everything yourself) is to put thge axle in, tack the perches and remove for welding... CW

My truck has gone thru a number of changes. The rear shocks have changed position and type a couple each!! I started with Monroe magnums at stock length. They worked till the 3" lift came along. I sold them to a member here and a set of longer Rancho's replaced them. The Ranchos went with the 4" Rusty's full spring packs about a year later. I sold the Ranchos to another member here. I wanted better shocks so I splurged and I picked up a set of Bilstein 5100's. :brows: But I bought a set that was a bit too long. (Nothing listed for our trucks) So I made up a upper mount with a piece of 3" heavy angle iron and a couple "HELP" shock mounts. I drilled a number of holes so I had some adjustment. But these proved to be too light a rebound for my taste, so I sold them. I picked up a set of 5125's. These where still a bit long but better in dampening and rebound. Then the Rusty's springs broke... in half! I also found the frame problems. I ordered a set of Alcan springs 4.5" "MT" packs and fixed the frame. A friend was building up his XJ at the time and was needing shocks. I still wanted a bit more dampening from my shocks so he bought mine and I again upgraded to the 5150's front and rear. These along with the new leafs, where exactly what I was originally looking for. I was able to go back to original, factory shock mounting points. That's where and how it sits now.

Today I had a day off and time on my hands.... SO, I worked on the Air Tube idea.... I started with a 6" piece of 3" exhaust pipe, and a set of Vacuum ports I found @ Pep Boys. The kit is perfect for this and comes with 4 ports and grommets sized for the XJ/MJ large vac/breather lines. The tubes are made for plastic so the saws that come with it are useless for the metal tube... I use a 1/2 hole saw and filed the hole up to the proper size for the grommets. Then I took out the air box and related vacuum lines. Inserted the air tube in the rubber factory air tube and tightened the clamp. I installed the air filter and tightened its clamp. Now to address the bracket arm. I made this form a stick of 1/8x 3/4" flat stock. I drilled a 3/8" hole and bent it about 70 degrees. Then measure to the height I wanted and bent it again then chopped off the excess. I left about a 4-5" tag end and bent that into a 3" radius to fit to the air tube. I will weld this together, but for now I just "zip tied" it. I wanted the ability to return to stock, so I found some hose that was the proper diameter to allow the factory tube to slip inside and retain vacuum. I cut the factory vac harness with 2" end to hold the hose. (So I could repair this and go back to stock.) I cut a long enough hose to make up the distance from the top of the valve cover to the side port of the air tube. So far its working fine...I'll post up again after a couple days... CW

I fixed the pass side tie-rod, changed the oil, found a bad U joint at the tranny side of the rear shaft and got some more time in one the new intake. Need to spend some time underneath and paint up what the salty roads of New England have done to the poor MJ over the winter!!! :fs1: :fs1: OH, I found I may have a leaky Bilstein shock too!!! Gonna watch it, but it was wet.... :wall: Today I had a day off and time on my hands.... SO, I worked on the Air Tube idea.... I started with a 6" piece of 3" exhaust pipe, and a set of Vacuum ports I found @ Pep Boys. The kit is perfect for this and comes with 4 ports and grommets sized for the XJ/MJ large vac/breather lines. The tubes are made for plastic so the saws that come with it are useless for the metal tube... I use a 1/2 hole saw and filed the hole up to the proper size for the grommets. Then I took out the air box and related vacuum lines. Inserted the air tube in the rubber factory air tube and tightened the clamp. I installed the air filter and tightened its clamp. Now to address the bracket arm. I made this form a stick of 1/8x 3/4" flat stock. I drilled a 3/8" hole and bent it about 70 degrees. Then measure to the height I wanted and bent it again then chopped off the excess. I left about a 4-5" tag end and bent that into a 3" radius to fit to the air tube. I will weld this together, but for now I just "zip tied" it. I wanted the ability to return to stock, so I found some hose that was the proper diameter to allow the factory tube to slip inside and retain vacuum. I cut the factory vac harness with 2" end to hold the hose. (So I could repair this and go back to stock.) I cut a long enough hose to make up the distance from the top of the valve cover to the side port of the air tube. So far its working fine...I'll post up again after a couple days... CW CW

Its inconvenient when ever you have to go, so minimize the issue.. Do like me and take the FIRST appointment of the day.. You will wait for NO ONE sans the doc!!! CW

Sorry man.. I know its a drag.. warmer temps are a comin!!! :cheers: CW

I have a couple ECTED’s and first off DO NOT RECOMMEND ONE. I have one in my TH with an 8.8 and it has given me zero problems. I have three people in my club with them and ALL have problems of one kind or another. I bought a second one when I put the D44 in the MJ. It didn’t work and I got the absolute worst customer service from Auburn you could imagine. Outright lies about shipping and the issues at hand. I finally got one that kinda worked…when it wanted to. It ALWAYS took a couple miles to minutes to engage. Recently it doesn’t work at all and is coming back out and going back…AGAIN!! http://www.auburngear.com/aftermarket/p ... f9d7f93179 It is a electrically switch able (yea rite) from limited slip to locker. Different, (cause it don’t work) because many are open when off and the ECTED is a LS when off. A “prop” valve is needed with a vehicle with discs and drums. It allows braking bias to give more braking power to the front where there is more weight for better braking effect. Yes you can delete it and run with out one. BUT changes to the lines need to be addressed. Do a search with “Eagle” and then “Pete” as a author and type on rear proportioning valve as a topic. As mentioned all MJ’s came form the factory with a “overload” spring. Do you mean add-a leaf? If you do this go with a full length leaf. CW

BEFORE, you go to all that trouble.... Check your linkage for proper adjustment. The chain certainly could be bad, but for it to "jump" teeth you would hear quite a racket from it on a daily basis. 1989-90 is a tough time to pin down what you have for a spline count. the advice given is of coarse good. Just remember its a Jeep and the whores at amc put in what they had available. So as soon as someone makes a stead fast list of "will haves" someone else shows up with a seemingly stock vehicle that breaks the mold. What you have is what it is, unfortunately, you just look to be certain. CW

I wish I could do that, but the dealer near me closed. The next closest is about 45 mins away and they close during the week before I can get there. Credit cards will take care of that.... Call, pay and have them leave it outside where you can get it!!! CW

Just go buy them from the dealer.. They are WAY STOUT and WAY CHEAP compared to the bullskit of carefully grinding off the old ones... been there done that AND ended up using the factory 8.25 units anyhow!! CW

MALE VS. FEMALE AT THE ATM MACHINE A new sign in the Bank Lobby reads: 'Please note that this Bank is installing new Drive-through ATM machines enabling customers to withdraw cash without leaving their vehicles. Customers using this new facility are requested to use the procedures outlined below when accessing their accounts. After months of careful research, MALE & FEMALE Procedures have been developed. Please follow the Appropriate steps for your gender. ************ ********* ********* * MALE PROCEDURE: 1. Drive up to the cash machine. 2. Put down your car window. 3. Insert card into machine and enter PIN. 4. Enter amount of cash required and withdraw. 5. Retrieve card, cash and receipt. 6. Put window up. 7. Drive off. FEMALE PROCEDURE: What is really funny is that most of this part is the Truth! 1. Drive up to cash machine. 2. Reverse and back up the required amount to align car window with the machine. 3. Set parking brake, put the window down. 4. Find handbag, remove all contents on to passenger seat to locate card. 5. Tell person on cell phone you will call them back and hang up. 6. Attempt to insert card into machine. 7. Open car door to allow easier access to machine due to its excessive distance from the car. 8. Insert card. 9. Re-insert card the right way. 10. Dig through handbag to find diary with your PIN written on the inside back page. 11. Enter PIN. 12. Press cancel and re-enter correct PIN. 13. Enter amount of cash required. 14. Check makeup in rear view mirror. 15. Retrieve cash and receipt.. 16. Empty handbag again to locate wallet and place cash inside. 17. Write debit amount in cheque register and place receipt in back of chequebook. 18. Re-check makeup. 19. Drive forward 2 feet. 20. Reverse back to cash machine. 21. Retrieve card. 22. Re-empty hand bag, locate card holder, and place card into the slot provided! 23. Give dirty look to irate male driver waiting behind you. 24. Restart stalled engine and pull off. 25. Redial person on cell phone.. 26. Drive for 2 to 3 miles. 27. Release Parking Brake. SEND THIS TO A MAN WHO NEEDS A LAUGH, AND TO THE LADIES who can handle it.... they need a laugh, too! Remember this! A lady sent it to me. She was laughing, too.

Its not the sensor you think it is... that's a vacuum port!! Put it back, don't worry about that now. You have everything back together rite? Vigorously squeeze the upper hose. This will help push air thru the hoses/system and into the bottle where it will be dissipated. Be certain the bottle is full and go for a ride. Let it cool down and check the level again. It may take a couple times but the air will work its way out. Air in the system is a far bigger problem in the forums than it is in reality... CW

VERY nice truck!! CW

A word on T stats... they are defiantly NOT ALL created equal... Buy a FACTORY or one made specifically for the JEEP HOUSING. Not all will work with the jeep housing. Check it carefully, the "nose" may hit the housing and if it does it can and will cause problems. I'm sure you read my thread from a couple months back on my cooling upgrades. I had temps above 210 most of thew time. It never overheated, but far too warm for my liking. In the heat of summer on the free way it would push 240 on hills or long pulls. I changed it to a 190 and a couple days later my rad froze two winters ago. (I mistakenly filled it a couple days before with a 50/50 mix or 50/50 mixed antifreeze.) The temps still ran at over 210. I suspected the gauge, but a laser temp gauge proved the hi temps. Last fall I began reading about the pressure bottle that I finally installed a couple months back. My temps have never been so solidly steady. I installed a 180 stat made for the jeep housing. I also opened up the renix housing for better flow. I bought a new NAPA pump. My temps are running lo on the factory gauge but nearly spot on for the stat. I DO advise against stat lower then 180, but as you have one higher its a moot point. Whats the condition of your radiator? How about your block? have you flushed that with anything? (I read you did flush the heater core, a good start) Then there is a fan clutch. hows the condition of it? Back to your radiator... is it clean? I mean have you been In the mud and is it caked with the remnants? CW You posted while I was typing... what on earth did you just say???

The ONLY time to consider NOT using one is if its a offroad only vehicle. If so toss it!! If not and you drive on the street...KEEP IT and properly disco it!! ;) CW

Yesterday I got a chance to get out and work on the MJ some more!! BEAUTIFUL DAY HERE!!! I removed the rear diff pan because I found the breather tube missing last week... a few weeks before that I was wheeling in an area with many water crossings.. nothing deep, but a couple feet in places and lots of ice! So its likely one of the ice bergs removed the rubber line... I did find some water inside, not much but enough to have rust beginning to form on the top where no oil was able to get to. (On the pan) The lube wasn't a milk shake as not too much got in, but enough to make it grey...... SO, new 80/90 and a 1/4 bottle of L/S additive. I also looked at the intake tube project...No progress there as I need the hose adaptors... I thought I had a scope with a set of fittings with a couple little hole saws...trouble was the saws are not bi metal and made of plastic only...not the steel I was trying to drill.... So all it did was scratch the surface and ruin the saws teeth...8 bucks down the tube. Good news is the pipe should work well as it fits nicely.Once I get the two fittings installed I'll install and give it a go. CW