CWLONGSHOT

YUP, its likely vacuum!! I would start with the lines, they are and get brittle with time.Then remove and clean the vacuum acuater on the front axle. Then if that dosen't fix it, change out the unit on the X-case. Then, one or two swift kicks in the right rear tar, open the wallet, get the esentials catalogue, and order a posi-lok!! :shock: :D :D I had simular problems, I did what everyone suggested and got it to work prety good. I did not find the problem till I tore into the acuater itself. It wasnt repairable. the Orings where shot for too long and eroded or allowed the bore to erode to the point where it couldn't hold vacuum between the "O" rings. It would slowly pull the collar out of 4WD but not allow enough of a seal to trigger the vacuum switch telling the driver it was out of 4WD. Problems GONE now!!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Good luck, CW

Sean, Roadless is right, we still need to know where you want to go with your Jeep!! Now its a 2WD so your wheeling is going to be somewhat limited. A 2" budget lift, using spacers in the front and shackel or add-a-leaf in the rear will allow you to run a 31" tar. You can do this with factory shocks and factory rims. There will be a little rubbing on your front lower control arm, but thes can be either tolerated or adjusted out easily. The 4WD conversion is also not an enormus undertaking but more work than the BB lift. My suggestion is to buy a complete, working/driving donor vehicle. A XJ is the best candidate and will be easier to locate and perfect for this project. As all the parts you will need, sans the rear Drive Shaft, are identicle. If you are prudent, and really look. Posibuly you could locate one with a D44 and either swap that in or sell it seperate and recoup some of your costs! Set them side by side and begin the swap. To keep things simple, be sure to get an 86-89 vehicle, with the SAME TRANNY you have. WELCOME, good to see more Connecticut MJ's!!! CW

Drop me a line when you arrive!! I am central CT/ CW

Your rear springs look normal to me, that bottom leaf is a factory overload leaf. Here is a shot of mine, just after a AAL install. The AAL is the clean/shiny black leaf, just above the factory overload leaf. CW

Here is a pic of my factory leaf W/AAL below RUSTYS 4" replacemant: Here is a shot of the RUSTYS pack installed and at full droop: CW

I'll check and get back to you!!

Not meaning to nit pic....The thing I see in this drawing, is the tail pipe is exiting the wrong side. :oops: It also appears the steering wheel is on oppsite side...BUT the filler door is visable. Is this image floped and then somepne added the square (Should be rectangular) fuel door? CW BOY for not intending to nit pic....I sure just did, didnt I. :oops: :shock: :oops: Sorry man! I'll be quirt and go to bed now....

Sorry, I was going to comment more on that... :P I PREFER the boomerang style. But I had these shackles on hand and would have had to purchase the boomerangs. Not to mention most are 1.25 - 1.75 lift for the XJ. These net the MJ 0-.5" of lift. CW

Just a couple words on shackles... XJ stock shackle is 3" eye to eye. MJ stock shackles are 5" eye to eye. Because a shackle only lifts one end of a spring it needs to be twice as long to get half the lift. IE a 7" shackle in a MJ will lift about 1". The SAME shackle in an XJ will net 2" of lift. SO a common XJ 1.75" lift shackle will only be good for about 3/4" in your MJ. This is what I did in mine allong with a 3" lifted front spring. there was plenty of room for my Interco Trexus MT's. (Also a true sized 31" swamper) My FACTORY control arms got rubbed badle because of the large side luggs on the swamper. Once I upgraded to the RE CA's the rubbing was barely noticeable. Spacers are realitively easy to install. With spring compressors i can generally do them in 1.5 - 2 hours. Disco the sway bar AND track bar as well as shocks, you should be able to get the spring out. For the install spring compressors will be helpful but not mandatory. The biggest restrictor will be the lower control arm contacting the axle bracketry. Removing one end of the CA will allow more droop, IE room. BUT.... If you remove a lower control arm, it is likely you will have great difficulty replacing the bolt as the holes will not line up. Relax, you will get it you just need to use your head. Try a pump jack to move the axle front or rear to line the holes up. I have used everything from this bottle jack to a ratchet strap to my high lift to the winch on my TJ!! A long pinch bar will anso work if you can get the Jeep high enough off the ground. Good luck, CW

Steering stabilizers will not cause these problems. you have something else causing the problem. Replacing the stabilizer may again cause you not to experience the wobbles, BUT IT IS ONLY MASKING THE PROBLEM. Have the front end checked out and be sure you.they look closely. Everyone imeadiately jumps to the track bar as the end all answer to Death Wobbles. I will admit it is a large contributor to the problem but there are many other parts that can cause it. Do a search on ANY Jeep board for Death Wobble and you will be reading for a month of Sundays!!! There is SO much info out its not funny. Good luck, CW

Looks GREAT!! Where did you aquire the 80mm tube??? CW

Yea, Mine rock, slide as well as recline and fold forward. like you said, i got them mounted to MJ bracketry, so I have NO IDEA what they actually came out of. I was just repeating what the guy I bought them from told me. I'll take your word over his. :) :D CW

Rich, Here's answers back at ya! I am going to assume all your questions pertain to the rear axle..right? 1) I am running a set of Rancho 5000's I won at a jeep event last year. They are 3" extended. 2) I am using the stock upper mount and my own axle side mount. 3) I really thought long on this, I have a couple different shackles here to choose from. Now I am running a Daystar, greasable, 1.25" extended shackle. It is NOT a boomarang style. If I had to buy some I would get RE or most likely the JKS models! Remember, MJ's have 5" shackles compaired to 3" for XJ's. SO, a 1.5 XJ shackle is olyy good for about 1/2" on a MJ! But it makes a dandy factory replacement!! 4) I got them off EBAY for $20...SHIPPED!! They are the old style JKS U-bolt skids. Any more questions...fire away!! Happy to help with answers. CW

CONGRATULATIONS!!! GREAT find man!! Post up pics once its clean and installed!! CW

GRREAT POINT Pete!! The first thing I was gonna say is with out them you will get massive AXLEWRAP!!! don't do it!!! CW

This IS A GREAT SWAP!! But be sure you get the entire assemble as I believe the hubs and calipers are different. Not to mention the lug pattern...WJ's are 5 on 5 ...if I'm not mistaken! At the very least the calipers, you may be able to use your rotors depending on the year of your rig. CW

I think they would be fine if I lock tited them. but the MFG says NOT to, in big bold letters!! But in todays world, you have to wonder for the reason behind things....do they say this so some idiot dosent bother checking them if he lock tits them....then sues for millions when his tar flys off at 90mph in the free way!! I would LOVE to run a set of 10 spokes or even the old 5 spokes on my MJ!!! I think they look awesome!! CW

I bought a set off EBAY. 1.25" ones, that reduces the BS from 5.5 to 4.25, enough so 31" swampers didnt rub. Remember, Interco runns true to size, so these tars where just a tad smaller than 33's! I took them off for two reasons, they where advertized to not need retorquing after three "cycles" of retorquing. After 5, times and 5 times finding them loose, I took them off. They also recomend not to use loctite. It bothered me enough that i HAD to remove them....for peace of mind!! I have a set of BFG ko AT's in 31", I may try these with out the spacers, but not yet sure.... CW

Guys, I gotta say, Those two MJ's are the absolutely sharpest looking Comanche's I have seen!! They both really look AWESOME!! GREAT JOB!! BTW, Kid, Are you running spacers under those 10 spokes? I really LOVE these rims, but they have quite a bit of BS and with larger tars tend to rub with out spacers. Just curious. CW

Eagle, You would likely know better than I, but I was told that they where sport from a 2door XJ. :oops: :? :? I was recently told, that the basic difference is that the 2dr will fold forward, allowing access to the rear. The "rock" feature was an option on some seats in either 2 OR 4 door models. CW

Thanks for the link!! Was there any issues with the install?? I will be using all rear flairs and be mounting higher. As I said I want to get above the rust. In the bed, its rusted thru but very narrow. Its right at the edge of the flair, nothing above. If you look close at the pics I posted, you will see the bit of black arround the rear flair, this is just to keep the rust under control, unitl I can address it this spring/summer. Any help with suggestions is greatly appreciated!! BTW, NICE MJ!! CW

Hey Randy, Are those TJ flairs you have on your MJ??? Could you post some better pics of them...PLEASE!! I have some rott problems in the bed and am considdering this as I would be able to move them up on the body and cut out and remove the rot!! Thanks. CW

Here it is parked in front of my house... CW

Come on Juan....the fire wasn't THAT bad....it only singed those 8 tracks you had on the floor and the smoke smelled more like insence, I remember from my previous life! :shock: :-D :-D :lol: CW

LOOKS GREAT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I have found these springs to be a bit stiffer than stock but not uffensive. I mounted mine with the same extended shackle for easer mounting as they are a bit shorter than factory. In a couple weeks I'll install some chevy shackles. They are 4.75" long so only a tad shorter than factory MJ's. What if anything did you do with/for bump stops in the rear??? CW