CWLONGSHOT

I too missed that part!! 500 would be a GIFT!!! MUCH uncertanity with bad/blown parts. Like what else was damaged and is only holding on by a thread!!! CW

I recently also did this swap. I am 6' and not a small guy @ 250lbs. YES I noticed the seats sitting taller. I have the sport seats from a 2 door XJ. The ones that Rock, Tilt and Slide. I have a TON of extra room around and behind the seat after the swap. The height of the seat is tollerable, I just have to be careful entering and exiting the truck. OH and I can NO LONGER wear my cowboy hat in the truck!! CW

Well, I got the final spring Monday night....and played HOOKEY today and My buddie and I put them in!!! All went well, only snag was the centering bolt on new springs was 9/16". Factory was 1/2". But we did not notice untill everything was nearly bolted up!! I was also able to finally finish my rear tow point bracing!! Here is my bracing. I attached to the back of the 2" receiver and angled forward, ending above the rear tars: Image Not Found Here is the springs in and at full droop: Here is my Drive Shaft angle. I'll chop the bolts after I re-torque the U-bolts a couple times: Here is the difference between old and new. the frame ends are bolted together for referance: The next two are rear done, but before I added one inch to the front: Image Not Found Here it is really done: It appears lower in the rear, but my driveway is on an angle so it is deceiving. The front is @ 23.25" from the center of the hub to the edje of the flair, while the rear is just over 24". Next is rocker protection! I have found a couple desighn's I really like. They will be integrated into the body as I have already removed the cancer (rust) from the rockers. CW

I would say the NV3550 would be right up there at the top for my intended use. thats what I would LOVE to put in my TJ!!! AX15 will likely do everything you could want in a tranny. Just my .02cents. :) CW

Be sure to use anti seeze on those threads!!! that way NEXT time everything will come apart as it is supposed to!!! CW

Around here, that truck, average mileage with very little rust, good floors and paint, could bring upwards of $3000-$3500. The prices are going up. I paid $1200 for mine with 60,000 miles, BUT it needed a complete front end. Death wobbles to beat the band. That alone would have cost someone a couple grand for what I did. My labor and most of the parts I had on hand. It also had some rust issues, but only in the rear bed and outer most portions of the rockers. Nothing on the floors. Even the rockers, there is no rust anywhere near the pinch seams, only in the cab corners and about 1/4" below the doors. Good luck, CW

I checked into the links...Roll bars aren't cheap are they!! Oh well, at least I know where to get it!! I did not see any rail caps, there was a slotted thingie there but even it was for a short bed. (Sorry forgot to mention...mine is a long bed.) Eagle, I'll check and see if a local shop will order in some early Dakotas rail caps and let me do a trial fit. I WANT this soon, the bed looks bad with all those holes exposed!! I had my taneau on and it hid them. So now that its off....there they are looking at ya!! Do you have any places you would recomend, I look? Thanks again, CW

Thanks guys!! I would rather the bar be at or slightly above the cab. The rails covers are going to be needed soon. So any info on those would be much appreciated!! CW

I like to call them "Brain farts" and its a damn good thing they have no gaseous odor, as I would likely pass out with the frequiency I have them!! :shock: :D

Well, I do not have a roll bar/sport bar YET....but I mounted the hi-lift to the front of the bed this AM. I am thinking about a spare tire rack like BIC has......I'll make mine. :shock: Kinda like what Pete M. did, but a bit forward so the gate will still close. :D CW

Well, its warming up here in the northeast, so off came the plywood taneau I made. I REALLY would like to add a roll bar, (for looks) as well as a set of alum bed rail caps. As we all know, comanche stuff in the aftermarket is lacking. I have herd that some dakota stuff works while others say sim year S-10 stuff fits well. I have a line on a S-10 long bed roll bar for a good price. I wonder if it will fit. Its too far away to do a trial fit. I havent looked much for the rail caps. Any body know for sure??? THANKS, CW

NOT for 30$!!! If It did would you want to run it!!! :shock: :D The kit is for the new/correct seal and block off plate for the CAD. You supply the axles. http://rustysoffroad.com/Merchant2/merc ... gory_Code= CW

Technically, the diode is still working. But the wires broke off, leaving too little to re-attach. I believe he had a fusable link that was toast...we just could not find it. We ran a test jumper and the bugger fired right up!!! I added one to my MJ today. I wired it is as if it was a set of lights or other accessory, you know with a relay, done right. then I added the temp sender to the rad, ran that as my trigger with a seperate 12V switched line so I can also run it when I want to . :) My MJ has no AC so I did not have the aux fan assmbly. I got all the parts out of a '90 XJ I parted out. CW

Yes I believe you can. The troubles start when the electronics started, about '91. Yours on both should be cable driven speedo's. You will need a new or swap old sending units for coolant and oil from gauge vehicle. they are different for idiot lights. CW

Juan, If you can, bring the MJ tonight. I'll throw in my electric tool box and we can test the circuts with the test lead and continuity. CW

I measured the lift heights I got now that everything has had a chance to settle in. The front is @ 22.25" Center of the hub to the lip of the flair. So if stock truly is 17" I have a bit over 5" of lift up front. The rear is @ 21.50" Center of the hub to the lip of the flair. If 20" is stock, I got about 1.5" in the rear. BUT thats WITH a 7.5" shackle (5" is stock) AND a +3" AAL!!! Looks like the AAL brought me to stock +.25 and the AAL gave me the 1.25" lift. I am a bit perplexed as to what the new RUSTYS leaf springs will do. The ACOS is only good for about another 2" and thats MAX. If I go with a factory XJ shackle (3") in place of the extended (7.5), I'll loose 1" from the new springs. BUT if 20" is stock that equils 23" in the rear. Compaired to the 22.25 up front that will be pretty good balance as is. OR I could leave the rear shackles and up the ACSO another inch to inch and a half. OR I could go back to the factory legnth MJ shackle.......I'll have to wait and see, once I get the lost spring.... Patrick, I have posted the measurements of the spring. I don't know where you where going with the info? CW

The throttle control cane with that style of cable. it isnt as easy to work with. Not that it can't be done, its gust easier with the adjusters on the cable ends. i was a bit skepticul of the itty bitty cable, but the fork moves very easily, and shouldnt be forced anyhow. The push button lock is very nice!! I have a line on a used posilock, I may jump on if the price is right. For now, this works fine and is very inexpensive!! CW

Yesterday, I was putting in a home built POSI-LOCK. It came out really well. Here is some pics: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found About 15-20$ in parts and a couple hours time! I also found out why the vacume system did not work correctly. The "O" rings in the shaft that connected the fork to the housing where dragging badly. there is NO WAY any amount of manafold vacuume could have moved it!! CW

The measurements on the RUSTY'S springs are.... From the front bushing to centering pin its, 26.5" and from the centering pin to the shackle end bushing its 31". All measurements are to the center of each hole and the center of the centering bolt. I for got to measure the factory rear springs today. :oops: CW

Its taken straight across, mounting hole to mounting hole. They also came WITH BUSHINGS installed. Rustys, says that is correct. They acknoledge it is short, but assure me that it is only because of the "free arch" in the spring. They will flatten out as weight is applied and will be correct legnth. Once I get the other spring, I'll find out for sure. Not a HUGE deal really. I have all new bolts in the springs and anti-sleezed the threads on those. So everything will dis-assemble with ease. CW

THANKS MAN!!! I have been REALLY skeptical of RUSTYS. I have called them twice since the order last Saturday. The service I have received is TOP NOTCH!! They even called me back to be sure of the tracking number of the spring I had received. They REALLY seem conserned and are doing what they can to locate the missing spring. I am not upset for only receiving one, I know these things happen, and fully expect the other to arrive early next week. My calls where about the legnth more than the missing spring. They assure me the reason for the shortness is because of the free arch. Today, I need to do some things on the MJ so I wall get a accurate measurement of the springs on the vehicle. Thanks, CW

My other spring is sittin in a UPS warehouse somewhere!! it hasnt been delivered as yet!! I spoke with RUSTYS this aftnoon. they said its correct and its because of all the free arch. it will legnthen as weight is applied. it is correct. Hopefully I get the other spring soon....i WAS going to install Saturday....not now!! CW

I got one of my RUSTYS springs today!! I guess they got seperated...hope its NOT LOST its label!!! I put a tape on it and it measures 53"...that seems short. Anyone know what the factory legnth of the leaf springs should be? CW

Thanks for the SUPER FAST reply!!! I am glad I caught you on line!!! Did you by chance measure your old ones? I could have the numbers wrong, I did it by myself and could have made an error. I remember having to do it front to center and rear to center and add them together..... Now there is 6" of fresh snow on the ground and I am....well comfortable here in the house!! :oops: CW

Hey CABZ. Could you throw a tape on your springs for me? I got one of mine today and they measure 53" eye to eye. I measured the ones on my MJ (weight on them) @ 57"-58". I am worried these new ones from RUSTYS, may be too short!!! Any body KNOW the legnth the factory leaf springs SHOULD be??? The pkg sys "2 of 2", so some how they must have gotten seperated....hope the damn label didnt fall off!!!!! CW