CWLONGSHOT

About the shock mounts - can you just lose 'em and use ubolt plates with shock mounts with the XJ axle? Absofirkinlootly!!! :D OR you can do as I did and remount them higher so they are out of harms way! CW

I feel I must correct you here... :D . The worst thing about Rustys parts is that they are made by RUSTYS!! Just to get your parts, you must deal with very poor customer service AS WELL AS sub quailty parts. Not to mention that I have seen many poor welds and herd of weld failures coming from RUSTYS. You get what you pay for. there is a saying out there...."Always time to do it over....never time to do it right". Well I say do it right the first time and do your self a favor, buy from a different company. My 2 cents... CW

I don't mean to tall to fit under the seat.... :eek: I mean once its mounted in the truck...watch your head entering and leaving...your GONNA SMACK IT!!! The driving position leavs much to be desired as well. As you sit there you will be looking thru the upper 1/4 of the glass!!! Like I say, IMHO not the most desireable option for MJ seating. CW

If you where careful removing the XJ perches, theoretically you COULD reuse them...but we are not talking lotsa cash here guys!!! Be safe, just buy new perches. FYI, Because of the diameter of the tubes, if kept spring under you would actually LOOSE a bit of lift. DEFINEATELY a worthwhile swap...IF you get a 29 spline axle. CW

One thing I just thought of.... When you installed the springs did you tighten the shackles with vehilce weight on them or with the @$$ up in the air? I did it with the @$$ in the air one time and got more lift untill one day after emptying a bed full of junk it was leaning BAD!!! Shackles should get the final tighting with wheels on the ground. Even then it sould be done AFTER a good "jouncing". If you did torque it with the wheels on the ground, a half assed fix may be just this....lift the dirvers side loosen and retighten the shackles. When you let it back down she will be level!!! Getto and NOT correct, but it could work if just for "looks". Sorry you are having such problems...its not right what Rustys does!!! CW

Hey man...you could be a GREAT source for parts!!! How about factory buckets or LWB ROLL BARS!!! I am in CT too....meriden to be exact. Is your lot a pick and pull??? LMK, CW

The trouble is the motors and related linkages that make it work are just too tall to work in the cab of a MJ.......

Mine was leaning pretty bad (1.5 - 2") with the factory supention. Since adding the rustys 4" leafs out back its MUCH better. I have had it loaded up prety good a couple times. i have also flexed it out...really good a couple times. I have yet to bump stop it. (REALLY BAD my part) I won't be back off road with it till I get the BS's in. Yea it dropped down, but not aweful. You gotta remember thesae trucks are light duty, not really meant for hauling. Even the heavy tonne was light cmpaired to a Chevy, Ford, Dodge 1/2 ton. Its just the way it is. Any how, I HAD rustyd coils up front....aweful, but they where third hand!!! Now I have a set new set up front and its better yet!! I also have ACOS up front and set them 3/8 - 1/2 higher on the DS to help compinsate for this. I would do as Dirty suggested, add a small spacer to the DS and call it good!!! CW

This is a new Jeep TJ replacement comercial... I like it!!! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nVt6aaUE ... ed&search= CW

They work very well!! http://store.jksmfg.com/merchant2/merch ... oil_Spring I got mine for about $200 off EBAY!! The shaft is fine threaded and the spanner nut is turned up or down depending on what you want/need for lift. Just putting them in nets you a 1/5" lift, then they are adjustable another 2.5" more. So you can get almost 4" from them if you needed. The best part is the ability to set for my fat arse!!! I have the D-side set about 3/8-1/2 taller than pass. :brows: CW

Those are some nice setups! i may just have to "steal" the idea and fab my own!!! CW

The MTR's ARE great tars, but NOT MUD tires!! Goodyear classifys them as an allterrain. The side walls are SWAMPER TOUGH, WAY stronger than the BFG's and likely stronger than the Trexus's. Some smaller shops will not even mount them becasue of this sidewall!!! But they will NOT OUT WEAR A BFG...no way!!! :bowdown: So far in 4+ Years on my TJ the bfg MT's have served me well, no trail puntures. Others with me on same trails have not been as lucky as myself. There has been numerous off brands a couple swampers and even a MTR that has been sliced. Thats not to say BFG's are tougher... I have just been lucky the rock piranhas havent gotten a taste for french rubber..... :D :eek: CW

Defineately BFG's But I have to say...trexus do not have weak sidewalls. If you had both the BFG and TREXUS side by side UNMOUNTED, you would see what I mean...they are almost twice as thick!! BFG's have weak sidewalls in comparison. I choose the BFG because of wear. I have owned about 5 sets of different vehicles. Everyone has lasted over 50,000 miles. The MT's would be my choise for you as you mentioned mud. The AT's are a better tire if mud is not in your sites. I have numerous friends with the Trexus tars and everyone loves them. nly complaint is wear, 30-40,000 tops rotated and ballanced religiously.

I think a swing out on a MJ would be cool!! I have been fiddling with the idea as well. I like some of the ideas I have seen, but like you I am unwilling to sacrafice the bed space. If I come up with anything feasable, I'll be sure to post up my findings!! CW PS...Nice MJ!!! I agree with your comment about the spacers....I like the look of it now...almost level!! My front is set almost twoand a half inches higher than the rear and I am still not level!! I am thinking of swapping out my rear shackles for shorter ones, as I cannot go higher inn the front with out a serious steering upgrade!!!

I agree...a clean TB is a happy TB.....becareful with the TPS...they can be ornery.....and expensive!!!! CW

I did my trimming in two nights after work. You won't have as much to do as me, unless you WANT to. Just remove your front flairs. Expect the bolts to break. No biggie, just have some replacements on hand. I used 1/4-20X1" a and left OUT factory the metal strips. Once the flair is off, you will be able to push the inner fender well away enough to see where to cut the metal from the lower lip. You will be removing about 1" or so but leaving the mounting holes. Cut all the way to the lower pinch seam at the very bottom. There is a bolt there holding the fender to the body. I am thinking you may be able to bolt everything back up in factory position and be done. but you may also need to trim a bit from that flair in the same area. In any case, it will be minimal visual effect but get you the much needed clearances. The key is running the correct back space in your rims. 4.5 - 4" on a 7" rim seems right. This way it will stuff under the fender and clear the edges with minimal trimming as described above. Here is a pic of the trimming I described above. this is with 31" tars, so there is much more room. These shots below are the same cut fenders with a 33" tar so I could check for clearance. The rim and tar are set to simulate the outer edge of a 33X10.5X15 tar, mounted on a 3.75BS 7" wide rim: Hope this helps, CW

I am running just about the exact same suspention setup. Only difference is my front. i have 4" coils w/ACOS set for am additional 2.5" of lift. The rear is identicle as yours,. Rustys 4" springs and a 7.5" shackle. On mine, I also did quite a bit of fender trimming. The front flairs are up about 1.5" while the rears are up a full 2"+. I could easily fit 35"s, but my axles can't. I am also still running 3:55's so can't go bigger unless I re-geared. The AW-4 makes this combo driveable ON ROAD. For you, I would suggest this same size with trimming of the front lower rear openings to clear for turning. Here is some pics of mine on 33X10.5X15 BFG MT's on 15X7 AR Outlaw II's and think its a nice combo. Here is a link to my build thread: http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1230 CW

ME 2 !!! All hail PETE!! Good job here man, I or one REALLY appreciate the info and LOVE the site!!! CW

Did they run monoleaves on those? I know it was avalible as an option or part of a package on the RANGERS..unsure about the EXPLODERS. CW

You are ADSOLUTELY correct!! This is why I said what I said above. No harm or insult meant...just my experience talking here. :oops: :oops: I now pull the hub and axle as a unit. then put the axle in a vice and with a impact, I remove the 36mm nut and the hub from its shaft. CW

Back when I put the diamond plate rocker covers on. I had one area on the pass side just behind the door. Where the panel was too short to cover the rusted out metal. I got a piece of stainless steel and put and bent it 'till I got it to fit in there properly. Then I siliconed between the panels and rivited everything together. This is not a first class fix, merely a way to remove rust and fill the hole. I also completely sanded/primed and painted the lower part of both drivers and passangers doors. The drivers side had a bit of rust on its extreem lower edge. But I did this mostly to remove some adheasive. Left from factory stripping I unintentionaly removed, on day one with my power washer. :eek: Overall, I am happy with how it came out. Here is a shot of the adheasive...pretty nasty/sticky stuff!! I will eventionally have the truck painted all one color. :bigwink: CW

BECAREFUL pulling that way!!! It too could pull the bearing appart if baddly rusted!!!!! I am glad it worked for you..but its NOT the adviseable method. CW

http://www.quadratec.com/products/92810_209.htm This is how to properly remove a hub. Just be sure you have the nut on the axle stub or you could easily pull the actual bearing appart. don't ask How I know that...just take the advise. :) :D

About the oil....maybe the prev owner overfilled the diff. This would allow an exessive amount of oil to come out. Be sure to wire brush the contact points where the hub contacts the bearing and bolt threads. Then apply a good coat of anti sleeze to that area and the threads of all bolts. Good luck, CW

I got to looking at the front of my rig....I never really liked the saggy Rustys coils I was running. I bought the ACOS to allow me to adj ride height to the rear leafs. But the front is still lower than I would like. I piched up a set of new 4" coils and threw them in. In anticipation of my new 33" tars! WHAT A DIFFERENCE!!! The Rustys where about 1.5" DIFFERENT in height, just sitting on the garage floor!!! I reset the alighnment, toe in at 1/8" and caster at 7-8 degrees positive. Then I allighned the wheel. Tracks nice and straight with hands off the wheel. Today I'll tackle the track bar adjustment. I have some noise front the upper hiem, I think I may be out a bit. The tars look great, actually I could lower the rig, I have PLENTY of wheel well room. I was conserned about room at the lower rear corners of the front wheel wells. With the trimming I have PLENTY!!. Stay tuned for more..... CW