CWLONGSHOT

OK, How about trying something strange....Rig up something to spin these items individually. you will need something to use as a belt. A Drill motor with something "chucked up" to run the make shift belt on. You will be able to spin everything sans the bottom pulley. That one can be spun by simply starting the jeep. (don't run it too long....) I keep thinking your noise is belt related.....I didnt see you say you changed the belt itself. The one you have on there "LOOKS" good, but still could be causing this noise. If cash is really tight, you could buy it, put it on. then run it long enough to rule out or in the belt. If its NOT the belt. Remove it and return. No harm no foul as its perfectly good for the next guy. but then you will have ruled OUT the belt itself as the culprit. GOOD LUCK!!! CW

I went to my local hardware store and bought the SAE equivalent in Grade 8. CW

don't forget....buy a new belt!!!! :roll: :brows: CW

Where were these pictures taken? Looks like fun. NE corner of the state, near the shore. CW

Guys, he has a 4CYL...its comes FACTORY with 4:10's. This is NOT that big a step!! Heck, 4:56's where avalible from the facvtory for a short time! Its a bit more than swapping 3:73's for your set of 3:55's in a 4.0!! Drive sensably and you will be just fine!!! CW

This is GOOD ADVICE!!!! When I do this, I put the wife in the cab and instruct her if the motor seems like it will stall, "feather" the gas and KEEP IT RUNNING!!! CW

don't SPOOL THE FRONT!!! Spool the rear if you must, but NOT THE FRONT!! Trust me, you won't like it!!! Throw the aussie in the front... Steering ISNT overated :D :eek: CW

Well with my new 4:56 gears and old 33" tires. I am running at about 2200 RPM's @ 60 mph. As you in a 4cyl I don't think you will have any problems sans a bit less gas mileage... CW

Its because they are different sizes... What are you trying to accomplish?? There may be other ways to do what your asking.... CW

OK, I spoke with Auburn today. they gave me two tests to do. First was to check OHM's of the coil. Should be between 3.2 and 3.8 OHM's. Mine has 100% continiuty!!! There is NO resistance. I guess my coil is shorted out, huh?? The second test passed. Ck 12V under load and it has almost 13V all the time. I'll contact them again Wed and get a new coil sent out overnight. This can be changed WITHOUT having to resetup the gears. BUT will require the bearing to be pulled off and then re pressed on for re-instilation. But its a LONG SHOT cheaper then a complete re-gear setup!!! Stay tuned for more in this on going saga..... CW

But that measurement is from the ground to the bottom edge of my flair, IIRC. I can measure rom mid hub to the top of my bed later today... CW

This is what I would do.... I would think it was the Alt OR the idler/tentioner pulley. (If yours has one. ;) ) Also WD40 is a SUCKY lubricator!! It works good for removing crayon marks from the wall and displacing water under your dist cap, but thats about it!! Keep it OFF the belts!! When youa all done, I would replace that belt. Its likely, at least PART of your noise. GOOD LUCK, CW

X2 Just buy it from here!! http://www.quadratec.com/products/51216_01.htm CW

No I am going to build something off the back bone mount....just havent figured out what yet... Gonna get my locker fixed/replaced first!! CW

I am very glad it finally went you way!!! GOOD LOB!! :cheers: CW

Well, I guess thats something... I read alot about these "NEW" versions. they are supposed to lock up tighter as well....Not mine..it dosent lock at all!!! the LS blows as well!!! I have had fact trash locks that where tighter!!! I felt like I was wheeling a open diff today!!! Here is some pics of todays run. VERY easy trail. Only real obstical was that there was ICE EVERYWHERE!!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I sent a Email to Auburn. Hope its a fast fix..only trouble is the cost of resetting up the gears...AGAIN!!! :headpop: :mad: CW

The light is turned on from the cad...it could be sticking. The later models T-case used a sensor in the TCASE for the light...not you year. So its quite likely the 4WD is going in and out..only the light is showing its still in 4WD. I would do as others have suggested, jack it up and MANUALLY check!! CW

Well...it was a long day at my buddies today... I ran the wire for the ECTED and adjusted the exhaust no problems. Found that the rear most strap on the gas tank is almost rusted thru!!! I wonder, are these available??? I got the JKS discos mounted up. They work very nicely!! Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I cut the factory switch plate in the dash, right beside the power comfort switch, for the ECTED switch. Looks nice. Wired it up and checked the connections. Done. Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found We moved on to the winch mount. Again it went pretty smooth. Drilled three holes in the pass side and installed all bolts. DONE. On to the winch itself.....It needs square nuts for mounting...I didn't have any. So it was a trip to the store. 15$ later I have bolts, washers and square nuts. Mounted that up and moved on to the solenoid box. I put it beside the winch on the pass side. its temp, I would really like to get it under the hood like I have on the TJ. I didn't have the bolts for the side mounts on the Optima battery...SO its back to the store for a couple GM style batty stud bolts. Got those and made the connections. I removed all existing connections and added die electric grease and re-tightened. We stretched the synthetic line between my buddies YJ and the MJ. We where on a slight grade so the weight of the MJ was used to coil the line nice and neat. DONE. Then its time to try the locker!! I pull out and hit the switch....nuttin'. I go around a corner expecting the inside tire to begin chirping....again nuttin'.... We go back to garage and My buddie double checks we are getting 12V at the diff...we are. We jack it up and double check with both rear wheels off the ground. LSD works nice...but again...NO LOCKER!!! He figures that possibly the oil is too thick from the cold and I should just drive it and once its warm it should work.... After cleaning up the mess and putting the tools away, I drive home. I get home and back in the driveway. My side is just gravel and still packed snow covered. So I figure its a good place to check the locker. I hit the switch and then the gas....I just sit there like a cheby..spinning one wheel. What gives??? The ECTED in the TJ will spin BOTH with it locked or not. Only time the LSD is defeated is if I really, really force it. This one acts like a OPEN diff!!! I mean come on...BOTH rear tires on packed snow with nothing in the bed and only ONE rear tire is spinning???? NOT RIGHT!!!! Sometimes it just aint easy... :mad: :headpop: CW

In reading a bit...I find that D35's XJ's are a 9" drum while the MJ's are usually a 10. But I think they are both 1.75" wide. I haven't played with any 4cyl's to se if they are different..but why should they be?? D44's are bigger in MJ's 10" X 2.5" wide. CW

Yea...no paint...too expensive!!! Macco advertised a half price Ambassitor paint job....but didn't mention what ISNT included and what DOSEN'T get done for that price..... I'll paint it this summer myself!! Here is my ECTED before install: Image Not Found Image Not Found I did get it back last night though!!! Drives REALLY nice!! Image Not Found Image Not Found I have the Detours mount and winch to put on this Sat for a easy wheeling trip this Sunday...stay tuned!!! CW

I like the idea...but like Dirty says wonder how they will hold up to punishment? I mean the TJ fenders are stuotly attached...the XJ ones appear only attached to sheet metal...the flair any take it, but the surrounding area will fold right up on the first tree to run into. CW

I got the phone call this afternoon.....the MJ is DONE!!! WOOHOO!! I'll pick it up Thursday night! I don't think I'll sleep at all tonight! :roll: Saturday is lined up as a wrenching day!!! Got that DETOURS mount and WARN M8000 to install as well as the JKS discos and wire up the ECTED!!! Going WHEELING SUNDAY!!!! CW

You will do just fine with EITHER AXLE!! Here is the facts as I know them: The 8.8 is availble with two different spline counts. Both are stronger Than the D35. With 31 splines, its the strongest of the three axles, larger axle shafts, larger bearings and axle tubes. It was made for a heavier vehicle. The "C"clips are really a moot point as they have no real bearing on stregnth of an axle or its shafts. The 28 Spl version is still much stronger than a D35. Disc brakes are very common on post 1996 axles form exploders. they are 5/8" narrower (perside) than the D35 or 8.25 axle. The center section os off set, but has no bearing on anything so don't give it another thought. Axle ratios avalible to 4:56 from the factory, 4:88 from the after market. Lockers, LS's and gears are readily avalible and priced on an even keel to others. The 8.25 is avaible in two different spline counts. Both are stronger than the D35. With 29 splines its a good strong axle, its got 3" axle tubes, good sized bearings but small brakes and is plenty strong. Again as with the 8.8, The "C"clips are really a moot point as they have no real bearing on stregnth of an axle or its shafts. If you break a axle it can come out. Its a problem wit the D35 cause alot of axle shafts break in that axle, not really the case with the 8.25 29spl. Its the same width as the D35. Its center section is centered. Axle ratios to 4:56 avalible, none higher in the aft mkt. Limited selection on lockers and LS as well as gears. Prices MUCH higher for all three. Many prople are hung up on the "C" clip axles. its meerly the way the axles are held in. Yes you can break a "C" clip but its not common to do at all. It gets a bad rap from the D35. Cause the D35 has a weak case and weak axle shafts once you start adding larger tires and lockers. Its not a real worry with the 29 spl 8.25 or 31 spl 8.8. The 8.25 27 spl is still a stronger axle than the D35, because it has slightly larger shafts but a much stronger housing. The 29 spl version is readily avalible, priced about the same and stronger. If your not needing any traction device and don't intend on regearing, I would go 8.25. If not go with the 8.8 and never look back. Yes I have done the 8.8 swap in my TJ and a friends XJ. Yes I have broken a D35 on the street with 31"s. I have a 29 spl 8.25 W/3:55 gears and a LS sitting on the garage floor. I never broke my non "C" clip D35 from the MJ but DID swap in a D44 for added security and peace of mind... Just my 2cents, Good luck, CW

WELCOME!! Pull up a chair..beers in the fridge, lets talk jeep comanche!! CW

I am going to be swapping in mt TJ's buckets to the MJ. I THINK I have the XJ curved bases...not entirely sure... :cry: I will want to get them as lo as I can to factory height. As I say I have the XJ curved or rocker seats and bases and because of my size, I find them too high. I have been dealing since the install as they are super comfy once seated. Its getting in with out hitting your head and my inability to wear my hat inside the MJ... I am going to have to hack and chop the XJ bases to get what I want... CW