CWLONGSHOT

WELL........ I bought it with 215's, bought a set of BFG AT's 30X9.5...then a set of 31X10.5's... Then a set of 31X10.5 Swampers. Bought a second set of 31X10.5's as my brotherin law need my last set. Then put those 33X12.5's from my TJ on... but couldn't steer. So found a set of 33x10.5MTs amd lifted it a bit more, then a set of 33X10.5 AT's... swapped the 33X10.5 MT's for 33X9.5's MT's. in between all that, i swapped rims FIVE times. :eek: :eek: :eek: Whats that... Yup, NINE different sets of tires & FIVE different rims. Do you think I have a rubber fettish??? LOL, Merry Christmas everyone!! CW

My MJ has made a few transfprmations top get where it is now.... :roll: Here it is on 31" AT's with 3.5inches of lift: Then I added some new tires, 31" (TRUE SIZE) Swamper Trexus tires: Here I swapped in some steel rims and those same BFG AT tires: Then I tried a set of 33X12.5's I had for the TJ but thery where too wide and the BS was too deep. the MJ wouldn't steer so this was just to SEE how it looked. SO, because I now had the 33" bug... I upped it to 5.5" of lift and I got a set of 33X10.5 MT rubber: Then I threw on a set of RE Drop brackets and a bew set of 33 X10.5 BFG AT rubber: Then I aquired a set of 33X9.5 BFG MT's and put them on factory "PHONE DIAL" Alum rims: Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found I decided these would be my wheeling tires and went back to the AT's for DD proposes. Buy I decided to go to the factory "10 SPOKE" rims: Sorry to be such a pic lady of the night :oops: :D :eek: ...but you DID ask for it!! Merry Christmas, CW

YOU KNOW IT!!! Merry Christmas and Happy SAFE Holidays to everyone on here, in my extended COMANCHE family!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: CW

Hornbrod, Spoiled...dude you don't know the half of it!! LOL LOL A couple months back he began having troubles with his knee's. He has worn thru his cartilage in them. SO, his running/jumping days are done. He gets around OK for the most part. but he has gotten quite accustomed to my Wife catering to him. She makes his dinner and brings it to him where ever he is. She also brings him his water. the funny part is he calls her when he wants something. Rot's are very vocal and extremely smart. He has her wrapped around his paw..literally. When I get home, he gets right up and comes over to me for attention, and follows me around the house. Until my wife gets home that is. Then its PLOP right in the hall between the kitchen and living room. Followed by groan, groan, woof. Its also has a very disgusted tone...like WILL YOU HURRY UP AND DO SOMETHING FOR ME. :roll: This gets progressively louder until either I say "KNOCK IT OFF" or she gives him attention/food/water he is looking for. When its water, its overly hysterical, as his water dish of about 4' away in the kitchen. but he will make her bring it to him...and SHE DOES!!!!! :eek: :eek: Its down right comical, I do not cater to him as she does and he doesn't expect me to but he sure does expect it from her!!! VERY GLAD to hear the POSITIVE UPDATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Looks like he will be home for Christmas. That's GREAT NEWS!!! Merry Christmas everyone, CW

Here is mine... Built it when I first got my Manche. Its 3.5" sprinkler pipe. I added a 2" receiver and welded it to modified factory mounts. Shortly after I added reinforcements from the receiver angles forward. tied into the "frame" in four places with grade 8 1/2" bolts. CW

My pet IS my kid!!! :roll: ;) :eek: :D He is laying between my feet as I write this now. He is 10 this year, I know he won't last long...I DREAD the day. I have lost three grand parents, my mother and two dogs. NONE where easy. My second dog and my mom where the worst. my dog died in my brothers arms on the way to the vet. Both died from Cancer. That's life, if it weren't what it is, it wouldn't be worth living. Take what each day offers and live it to the fullest, never miss the chance to let the people (and pets) know you love them. I wish you the best with your buddy!! CW

I cannot remember exactly how... but think they just pulled out from the back.... I changed mine some time back when I had the dash appart. CW

Dude, You are absolutely correct!! I totally spaced about the coil on plug change over for the 2000 year!!!!! That changes things to be sure!!!! CW

Hopefully my memory is correct on this one. Someone please correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't it stand for Central Axle Disconnect? Like I said, my memory isn't the best, and I'm still learning these things as I go. BINGO!!!! Yup thats what it is. Its located on your front axle on the apss side. You can see it if you look behind the pass side front tire. Its got three hoses running into it. It controls the collar that connects your inner and outer axle shafts. With out it (As long as you have an open front diff) you you won't get power to front wheels. it will just spin the spyder gears in your front pumpkin. CW

UI am going to bet your cad is not releasing. Not a huge deal, only means that the two piece axle on the pass side is now one piece. COMMON problem, it gets dirty from non use and "sticks" As long as you get 4WD when you need it. Read up and next chance you get remove, clean and inspect for problems. CW

RIGHT, at least not made by Jeep/Dodge... FORD on the other hand has a 4.0 V6 engine. CW

The HEAT setting will only blow at the hump in the center of the dash near your feet. Remember heat rises.... :roll: Other than that sounds like everything is working correctly. CW

I have herd that some people have done this...but I cannot imagion is a easy chore... For the time and trouble I just swapped out the entire unit bearing assembly. What jeepco means is there is a cheap chinese unit bearing out there thats in the price range your looking at. The consensus is spotty at best. There is another choice, its made by TRW unit bearing that will run you almost twice the $70 figure. Is it worth it?... Its your money, you take the gamble. I have used both. But there is an old antage that generally holds true... Pay now or pay later, either way its gonna cost ya. CW

The 4.0L Jeep engine is a I6 from start till last fart fired.... Are you thinking of the 3.7/3.8 V6 maybe?? The 3.7 is whats in the KJ libbys, and the 3.8 is in the new Wranglers. They are very good engines in its own right, but they are no 4.0 L. There where some changes thru its life. But as far as I know, all trannys that where ever on a 4.0, will fit any year other year 4.0. CW

Could be electric could be vaccuum. Depends on your year MJ. Does the 4WD work?? CW

As dfreeman suggested, I would also want the most recent version of the MJ. Then it would need to have had a 4.0 with everything in good working order. I would remove the old engine and replace iith the new one. Then use the intake, system from the MJ and swap in the sencors (Temp, oil, oxygen etc) from the MJ as well. I am sure there would be a few kinks to work out but should be easy enough to do. Essentially what I am saying is use the MJ electronics and intake system on the new 2005 motor. Your tranny should bolt up and youll be off with a brandy new engine. CW

I just built my own!! CW

The factory U joint is the weak link. 260 or 297 no difference, they are weaker than the axle shaft. They are weaker still when the wheel is turned, weakest at full lock. Can you break a axle shaft and leave the U joint intact, SURE but its FAR MORE likely the U joint will fail taking out the shaft in the process. the problems your speaking of happen when people add HD joints that are WAY strong. THEN the weak link moves...could become the ring gear or Pinion or the axle shaft. On my TJ, I added the Hi Pinion axle like on our MJ's only I went with a newer one piece shaft version. Then I added a WARN 5 on 4.5 hub kit and alloy inner shafts. The kit comes with alloy outers with full circle capabilities. Then some slightly stronger solid 297 joints and of coarse full circle clips. My weak link will be the hubs them selves. I WANT this because I am in control of what breaks and this hub is relatively inexpensive and SUPER easy to change!! Image Not Found I cannot find my pics of three shafts we broke one right after the other on the same obstacle. All U joint failures. CW

Some vehicles are REALLY hard to do if you have AC. I haven't done this to a MJ with AC. Its pretty easy on one with out it... I don't imagine its a awful job. CW

Its likely your vacuum diagram for the front axle is faulty. Depending on the year of your truck, there is a switch(Mine is blue) under the expansion tank near the firewall. I switched to a Posi-Loc and mine now works as a ground, once contact is made, it grounds and my light goes on. Again, depending on your year, yours could be electrical or vacuum. CW

yeah, but the shaft is no thicker than a normal shaft. so, by getting a 297 shaft, the ears are drilled out more for the larger ujoint caps, and your problem IS no longer u joint failure, but major shaft failure Dude where do you get this stuff..you should be a comedian!!! :D :roll: :eek: The problem that usually occurs is the axle flexes or twists. This twisting causes the caps to get "spit" from the U joint. Once this happens the trunnion slams into the side of its bore and either snaps off or holds and takes out the ears of the shaft. This happens with 260 as well as 297 Joints. Its just slightly less likely with the 297's. This flexing/twisting is also why most brakes happen on the short axle shaft. Its stiffer so it flexes less and breaks more. As you know, by going to the 297 joint you get a larger turnnion, stronger casting of the trunnion and slightly bigger caps. Bigger makes it a bit stronger. But the weak link is usually still the joint or more directly the 3/4 clips that hold in the U joint caps in the axle. Notice all alloy or afetrmarket shafts take full circle clips? Less likely to get "popped"! SO, the issue or weak link is not a "drilled" out axle shaft...... :roll: :brows: CW

Thnaks Jeff, Yup thats it!! :cheers: :cheers: CW

I could have taken about anything I wanted... Only took stuff I added, like lights (PIA), headlights and push bar. You know stuff that I could use on this/next rig. Wanted the tires as they where brandy new, but the ins co increased my buyout offer 500$ to allow for the tires. She loves the KJ. I gotta say it really is a nice lil buggie!! Perfect for her/us. We have no kids and no plans for any. (Gettin' too old now :oops: ) CW

You don't need a pic, its easy to find what the guys are speaking of. there are two lines running into the firewall in that general vicinity. one going in to the heater-core, the other is the return side going back in to the engine. The vac ball is kinda like a vacuum reserve allowing the doors to open so the airflow allows heat or cold from out side air to mix. Easy to see and find its right behind the bumper on the pass side in the front. there are two different canisters, one is a ball the other is a oval. It depends on the options of your rig when new as to which you have. Any way just remove (two screws) and check hoses and cracks. Nothing fancy, remove a hose and blow or suck and see if there is any leaks. Here is a pic of the placement of my vac ball. Look in the upper left corner of the pic: Its most likely the heater core is bad/plugged. You can try a flush but I would just replace. Not awful expensive or hard (as long as no A/C) and your done. CW

I took out my factory lines in pieces and used them as a template as to how to bend up the new ones. Easy job, just go slow and allow yourself enough time so you don't need to rush. I used various lengths and unions from the auto shop, same as your describing. Good luck, CW