DrThunder

Sooo...... sending unit and fuel pump replacement on a comanche. the job shouldn't have been that hard but, and there's always a but. The tank has plenty of room on side right next to the driveshaft, plenty of room to work and the sending unit is right on the side of the tank. For starters i cut the lines and gas starts pouring out, huh well the lines must have had some gas in em, nope i filled the tank a few days ago before i parked it. no big-e i take a nice gas bath and the unit is out. Next i go to put the new one in and match them up, different but close. everything is the same but backwards. i figure ok maybe there was a flaw in the original design and they figure to put the float and all near the front of the tank instead. it should work. look at the tank. put the unit in and its clangin against metal and $#!& so what the hell? I take the plastic shield off the bottom of the gas tank and see the tank is dented in the front. OHHHH, there's the problem! syphon the rest of the gas outta the tank and drop it to band the dent out. Finally get it out and inspect the damages when i see this $#!& in there. there is a pan in the tank doing god knows what and my new "different" unit is hitting this $#!&ty contraption. so now i sit at home at night wondering how the @#$% i'm gonna get to norwich with no other vehicles but the chevelle tomorrow in the 5 inches of snow. awesome huh?

i plan to do a v-8 swap sometime this year whether it's a 350 or a 360. seriously though if you're going to spend all that time doing a swap do it with the dodge 360, it is far superior to the 318 especially in an offroading situation where low rpm power is desired. as for the frame not holding up, unless you're going to go substantially more powerful than a 4.0 like in the 300 horse and up range i wouldn't worry about it.

you can make anything work it's just how much work do you want to put into it???

gas tanks are different i believe. i would love to see it happen and support the idea. i love shortbeds

cons about dana 30: if you kill a u-joint it takes out your shaft (usually just outer) and can potentially take out you're ball joints which will leave you stranded on the trail. the dana 30's ring gear is only 7.2 or so which leaves the pinion similar to that of a pencil with a 4.56 gear. if you plan to keep the jeep for awhile i would upgrade the axle.

1600 bucks should be way more than enough to get a 44 under there if you do some of it yourself. Get a 44 out of a bronco and rebuild it with you're choice of gears and locker. This is what i plan to do in the near future but if i won't spend anywhere near that much. I don't know all the details of the bronco 44's because i'm not ready for that swap yet i just know people who run them and they have narrow width and drivers drop

I figured the trucks were a little stronger. Thanks for the info now i can build something else instead!!!

Anyone run them? I know a lot of xj guys run them because of the full unibody. Does a comanche's unibody/frame flex enough to benefit from frame stiffeners?

i got rid of my lower control arm mounts completely. i'm sure this is the case for you too.

if someone's willing to give me 20 bucks and shipping i will give these up. this is for only the two fronts, sensatrack (really good). i payed 80-90 bucks for them new in june i believe. the stickers are even still on them.

like i said in here, no shocks

i'm not worried about it, if i put a longer shackle on to make it more vertical i will be way to high, i am not a fan of anything over 5 cause imo it's really not needed and you end up being more tipsy.

if you can get one side open for the hood lift it up as high as you can without ruining it, stick your hand under the hood in the middle and feel for a thin metal rod, pull it and it should release

i've got a set of sensatrack shocks that i bought for mine 6 months ago and just took them off for my lift, they are still in great condition and are the best shock i could get at the local parts store. i would sell them to you for 30 bucks :brows:

i like my disconnect, i spent 20 bucks on a heavy duty throttle cable that locks when you turn it to the right and welded up my front end. cheap and very effective locker :brows: nobody down it either, it works for me and i like it

i was worried about that but am not having any issues with my shackles, i even took a video i was showing another site when i was building to see if it would be an issue, this is my truck soa no shocks with me jumping on it to see it travel. at full stuff the spring is pretty much flat and the shackle just starts to limit travel

i run RE 4.5 springs in the front with soa in the rear with xj shackles which actually lower it one inch and it still has an inch or so rake

Here's mine, 88 4.0 5spd. Custom bumper, rock rails, longarm setup, dana 44 trak locked in the rear dana 30 in the front locked geared to 4.56, 33 x 12.5 bfg mud terrains. front has 4.5 inch RE coils and the back is SOA with a cherokee short shackle

anyone have such a thing for the bed? pics would be nice cause i'm gonna start looking around for one that i can make fit the manche

Gears and SOA is done and it's everything i could have hoped. The only things left to do in the near future is to -switch out trak lok for detroit or hopefully ox. -Finish bumper hooks and paint it nice nice (tuesday) -One Ton Steering -Rims

a buddy of mine does 37's on 4" so it can definately be done

update: with 33's here's one before i trimmed

i used 2x6x3/16 and it weighs 52 lbs. all the bracketry was 1/4 thick. honestly i'm very glad i didn't go with the 1/4 thick for weigh reasons.

i'm in canterbury, i'm close to the casino's if you don't recognize canterbury

that hitch is off a 90's blazer that i made fit with some (actually alot) of welding and my buddy took it arleady. sorry :cry: