DrThunder

Not sure where I left off with this but since then I've locked the rear end, added hand throttle. That's it. More trimming. Now I installed OBA and must say it's one of the best mods yet. Things left to do, order a saftey valve for 150psi and thread it in the manifold in place of the plug. What I did/needed [*:2he6j06a]Sanden Compressor [*:2he6j06a]Used a tool lubricator to lubricate the compressor [*:2he6j06a]Air Filter [*:2he6j06a]Pressure switch ~ $22 turns on at 90, off 125 [*:2he6j06a]Gauge [*:2he6j06a]Fittings [*:2he6j06a]Bumper I ran the line all the way to the back bumper and have a quick connect in and out of the bumper for ease. Works great and that bumper holds a lot of air! I can run the impact gun with ease with the bumper. Not really much else to say but I like it a lot. Feel free to ask questions. With everything I think it cost a little under $100 with some freebies.

Hey I like my 1988 springs, nice and soft = flexy. Actually they could have been replaced at some time, they were always really tall. Anyways I do not get spring wrap either but then again I never burnout with my 33's. As for off-road I've never experienced any spring wrap

Here is a pic of what it will look like with the old style fenders

It won't work, but you know that. This is what sits inside of the tank that allows it to not work. I ended up soldering in a new line, still is working.

i went through this with my jeep for me it was all painted which made the threads extra large, i ended up running a tap ((I believe 3/8 coarse) over it. don't worry it was the same thread pitch and diameter i just needed to get all the paint off. then most shifters will fit on there.

no i love the feedback, as soon as the truck isn't a DD which could be next week i plan on making some changes

no-one has an opinion or suggestion about this?

just so there is no confusion that is my jeep photoshopped with a chopped bed.

not sure how i like it, i am going to do something like this for departure angle reasons. not sure how short yet and whether or not i am going to re-mount the tail gate with stock lights and all, i may just cut it flat, net the gate and cut in some LED's

here's an old pic

i ran it exactly how you had it, i think the pipe was 2.25 or so. my springs didn't have as much arch as yours though

just an fyi i had my exhaust routed under the frame and between the leaf spring for awhile. whenever i hit up a trail and did any kind of articulating i squashed the tip a little bit. i run the same setup as mjeff and like it

just re-use the pin if possible and use the bolt idea as a last resort, and just so you know don't bother taking the fenders off and unbolting the hinges and all. leave the door on and cut the bottom of the hinge with a 90* die grinder or a dremel. much faster

i used 2x6x3/16 box for the bumper

thanks for the help guys :cheers: i'm going to be fixing this when i get home today and will post pictures of what i did.

No way, i'm not going to junk a vehicle because of this. This is a very common weak point for xj/mj once you have oversized tires, there isn't any structural weaking rust their either. This is a spot in the frame where it can be fixed relatively easily and once it's fixed it's never going to happen again. here is one where rust was a factor http://mrmontez2000.proboards70.com/ind ... 1203279578

i can't pin point all the damage on one particular obstacle because i noticed the steering wheel wasn't as responsive from the beginning of the day. i was wheeling all day on it and i'm guessing it was cracked already but then i came off of an obstacle and noticed my wheel was straight in my hands and the wheels were turned full clock to the right, i knew something broke.

And it is broke all the way around, i figure my best bet is repair what is there meaning fill the entire crack all the way around and then plate it with 1/4 steel bottom side top anyone have a similar experience? i will be doing this tuesday so speak up soon. please and thanks. Corey

high clearance and about as easy as it gets, took a piece of 1" by 1/4" steel, drilled a hole in it and bolted in the shock mount and welded it to the tube

i just went through this. one of the lines rotted through and I couldn't find a replacement. (stopped making them) and i ended up cutting the old line out and soldering in a new one

track lock isn't a locker its a limited slip which is ok but if your into serious offroading there are much better options.

no, maybe you could get away with the fronts but i know with the rears i had to raise the mounts 2". Before i raised them i only had about a 1/2" of droop so whenever i hit a bump there was a massive bang from the rear end when the shocks maxed

i ran full 2" lift shackles or several months (I built them 4 inches longer), I don't think that there is anything wrong with the integrity with them however it is just about the worst way to lift your jeep. not only are they ugly but they constantly smack into rocks offroad. the nice thing about them is you don't have to worry vibes because it adjusts the pinion angle while lifting.

as for brand it was just one from autozone but i checked three other parts stores and got the same product. the pumps are the same but the sending units are differenent, thats where my problem was. my sending unit was rotted.

Is everyone aware that Chrysler stopped reproducing these a few years ago? I ended up having to cut one of my old rotted out lines out of the unit and soldering in a new one. If anyone has a lead on where to get some left over new ones I am in the market. Please and Thanks Corey