DrThunder

ohhhh, thank you, thank you, thank you, never new about that. y didn't they come like that from the factory? i will get on top of this one

same thing with me, xj proportioning valve but i just re-used one of the lines that ran to the rear and ripped the other one out.

where is this wiring for the xj kick panel lights

thanks for the input guys. just went out and put them up against some rocks and they held up well. i ended up actually on accident letting the whole truck fall onto one and it didn't move so mission accomplished!

oddly enough when mine started whining i unplugged the connector to the alternator and it went away. i immediately knew after that it was the alternator. low voltage seems like an obvious alternator sign too. good luck

oh and no its not touching the body, there is about an 1/8 inch gap for drainage purposes. i wouldn't want to enhance the rusting process

i can jack it up from any part of the slider, jump on them. they are very solid. they are mounted with four bolts to the frame each and four bolts to the pinch seam. all the steal i used was 1/4 inch so it won't be breaking probably ever

see what i mean. think before you speak

what i meant was most sliders stick out and act as steps making your jeep wider and more susceptible to rocks and such. i didn't lose any ground clearance. the frame rail is lower than the arms that come out.

here is what i fabricated for my rock sliders. wanted something that wouldn't sacrifice width or height. here's what i came up with. let me know what you guys think.

does it get higher with higher rev. this happened to me and i found that i spent the bearing on my alternator going through a mud puddle

its not a bolt on job. the top mounting is the same but somewheres in the middle a couple studs are missing for the 97+ grill to fit bolt in. you need to somehow secure the bottom of the grill to the radiator support. i used long bolts and big fender washer on the fiberglass header panel. the wiring needs some altering but is for the most part close.

vs didn't do the fenders but i like it anyway. got the whole setup for 30 bucks off a rollover victim. the grill was cracked in like 4 places but fiberglass fixes that.

i've got one u can have if u want it

i have the same weak spring issue. i am about 160 and drop the truck 2-3 inches. i consider it a blessing, soft springs = good flex. i was thinking about getting air shocks so i can adjust stiffness if i ever had a load but its hard to get long enough air shocks

if you order it from a parts store they will ask you the year and what tranny so... i know when i ordered mine they wanted both

wow that looks awesome, any other pics after paint or maybe a sideshot?

yea thats why i said 8-12, haven't really looked into it a lot, i plan on ending the bed just after the shackle mount, also ii may 4 link it. not sure just yet cause its still my DD for now

Anyone have any pics of their bed chopped? I want to take 8-12 out of the rear and then weld the lights and such back but wanted to see what it would look like, and i have a short bed tthanks in advance

http://mrmontez2000.proboards70.com/ind ... 1177296972 unfortunately i cannot find the picture of the finished product but all the cracks are fiberglassed in and painted obviously. my rot was so bad in the drivers floor i had to just about replace the whole thing good luck

Hey guys I'm new to the site but noticed a lot of lifted rigs out there. i have an 88 mj 4.0 5spd 4x4 locked rear lifted 2 inches with 31 inch bfgoodrich ta ko's. anyways i was seeing if anyone has any pics of how they trimmed the fenders, i just wanted to see a few examples so that i know how far to go with mine. thanks in advance