WahooSteeler

Thanks slug. Swapped w/AC clutch relay, still 7.4v, left fuel pump relay block empty, still 7.4v. Add'l info.......I recently added the extra ground at the tail light, but not at the fuel pump harness.

Ok. Couple of questions before I proceed....... How much voltage is needed to the pump? Even at only 4v wouldn't the pump come on? I have some brand new relays that are 30/40 amp I was going to use for the door locks. What amp relays are in the relay tray, i.e. can I just try the new relays?

Looking down at it from over the pass fender, which of the 4 relays should it be? Having a hard time getting the relay "tray" unclipped from the holder and don't want to break the tabs. Fyi, I am charging the battery with another car right now, voltage is 7.3v at the harness with or w/out the ballast bypassed.

How do I bypass the ballast resistor? Jumper between the two wire clips? Which relay is for the fuel pump? I pulled those earlier and they appeared ok, i.e. no corrosion, and I sprayed them with contact cleaner.

12.8v

If you mean for "fuel pump motor" to disconnect the fuel pump harness, 6.3v. And fyi, my battery is low from multiple attempts to start.

Before I pull my existing sending unit, I am trying to troubleshoot other possibilities to make sure the pump is getting power since my assumption that it is dead is because the truck died while driving it and I don't hear the pump coming on. I back probed from the harness side of the fuel pump and am getting 4v with the key on or when trying to start. Should I be getting more voltage??

I realized that I still have the Renix XJ pump that I used temporarily when I had TriStarr refurb my FSU. I've tried to sell it with no luck, so is it safe to say I could use that as my replacement pump?

Fuel pump died, picking up a Delphi FE0108 tomorrow. Has anyone installed one of these? Wondering if it's a direct fit or needs modification like the Bosch unit.

Haven't tried it, almost pulled the trigger after the water wetter seemed to help, but went to open system and haven't had a problem since.

https://www.evanscoolant.com/

Anybody install the Delphi FE0108 fuel pump? I'm getting one tomorrow and want to know if it takes any modification to fit the sending unit like the Boschs do?

Have you looked in to a water wetter or going to a waterless coolant, i.e. Evans? Not sure if it will help, I'm no expert, just throwing out ideas. I used Red Line water wetter in my truck before I converted to open and it definitely seemed to help.

Page 2 of the thread, near the end. VW retaining clips sourced by Gjeep when he did his Teraflex kit. Link to parts: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/81604/Parking-Brake-Retaining-Clip-1H0609747/ Link to thread:

I think Gjeep did this......that's who I bought the calipers, rotors and pads from when he decided to go that route.

What is then, if at all?

No idea......

I wasn't going to buy any until I got around to doing the swap, but another member here had the full kit and decided to upgrade to Wildwood calipers and I bought his Teraflex calipers, pads and rotors for a really good deal. I think all total I saved @$180 over the kit.

CORRECTION: I did NOT order the kit, I called Teraflex directly and ordered the backing plates and the spacers individually. Even with having to get quality calipers, pads and rotors separately I think it saved me a good bit over $100 from the kit price. That was 2 years ago and the parts are still in boxes, need to get it done but want to do the dual diaphragm brake booster first. Also, someone later discovered some VW (?) parking brake clips that worked on the Teraflex backing plates. I'll dig up the box with those pieces and report back part numbers, and/or try to find the thread where I learned this a couple years ago. Sorry my previous post created confusion.

I have the kit but have not installed it yet, may still be awhile as I'll need help to do it. That said, I researched it all pretty closely before plunking down the coin and the spacers DID NOT come with the kit, but I ordered them at the same time.

They're counting on the fresh paint to make people overlook the little things.

Thanks guys. I have ordered many AC/Delco parts with confidence knowing they are the major mfr for GM parts and likely well made. That's the direction I'll go......

If there's a Mopar 100 amp unit, I'd be interested. I just looked at RockAuto again and the Remy unit is a Remy Gold, and as mentioned the Delco is a Professional unit. Either one for @$90 shipped.

I must have jinxed myself on SCGUY's thread the other day, saying I think I might need to replace my alternator. Get in the MJ today and no start. Jumps immediately, dies as soon as jumper cable is disconnected. 12.7v at the battery terminals per my DMM. Cables were upgraded a while ago, battery has some age but seems ok. No idea if the one on there is OE (doubt it) or what the amp rating, but know I want to go to a 100/105 amp unit having A/C and power windows/locks. Looking for just a solid reliable unit, truck still only gets @5k year usage at most. Basically a DD for my college son and a household work vehicle. Basic high powered head unit for stereo, i.e. no external amps (for now LOL). On Rock Auto they have Pure Energy, Remy, WAI, BBB Industries, and AC Delco Prof available. Any of these can be had delivered for less than $100 and they are new, not reman. They have a Bosch unit for @$110 but its 85 amp and I definitely want 100/105 amp. I searched the tech forum for discussions and most threads were for people looking to get really high amp units and spending $$$. I did see a comment by Eagle on one thread that he'd recommend the Auto Zone Gold 100 amp as it comes with a lifetime warranty. That's great, but if I'm having to get it replaced every 2-3yrs my time is more valuable. Anyhoo, seems like some of the ones available on RockAuto would fit the bill and <$100 is hard to beat for a new unit IMO. The box store units are mostly $150+. Still would like some input from any of you before I make a decision. Thanks!