87manche

I'd go with 3.5" springs, closest you're going to find, then use an extra factory rubber isolator to get the other 1/2"

you will need new lowers. Uppers are optional at that height, but beware of your pinion angle and caster. You might end up OK, you might now, so don't be surprised if you need new uppers. If it's street only you could redrill the axle side bracket for the trackbar to center the axle, but it will bind at that height if you flex the suspension. New trackbar recommended.

I've got a k-40 on a mirror mount thats attached to the hood. It's in a good spot to keep an eye on it, the steel whip won't break like a glass antenna, and if it get's realy hairy I can reach out the window and take it off the mount without getting out of the truck.

don't go that wide on 15x7 rims. they will curve too far outward then and will wear faster. good rule of thumb for 10.50 tires is 8"wide rims to 10" wide. jeep had factory ones like that. I say this from experience. I've got 31x10.50 Dayton Timberline A/T's on 8" wide rims for my 86 comanche and at 17k miles on them they look like new. my brother has the same tires on his 88 comanche with 22k miles on them, but 7 " rims and they wore funny cause of the curve on the riding surface that was brought on by the narrower rim. he has to buy new ones when he starts driving again. you can get proper wear out of a 10.5 tire on a 7" rim. You need to chalk the tires to get the proper footprint. It sounds like he was running too much pressure, so he wore the center of the tread. I run 10.5's on the stock rims for road tires. I run 30 PSI front, and 28 rear when unloaded. I ran 45 PSI in the rears on the trip to MO because there was 1200 lbs of weight in the bed.

or you can shim the steering stops, you'll lose a small amount of turning radius. http://stu-offroad.com/steering/stop/steerstop-1.htm

Oddball Q, but does that sunroof on your truck leak at all? a little, only after it's been parked and a heavy rain causes water to poll up. It's been RTV'd. My sunroof was factory, or more likely a dealer installed option, as it's got mopar glass. The seal is simply dried up and it shrank, and I can't find a new one anywhere. Go ask the dealership for a sunroof seal for a Comanche, the part's guy head will explode. The bumper is made by JCR Offroad www.jcroffroad.com They're a great group of guys. Good products at good prices, and they came out to sponsor the event in a big way with probably 1500 bucks in stuff. They raffled off a few gift certs, two bumpers, a few sets of sliders. and they drove all the way from MI to feed us hotdogs and hamburgers friday and saturday. I keep trying to talk them into making a rear bumper, I may take the MJ up there one weekend so they can make the measurements.

the light does not sense the actual T-Case setting, just that the t-case is sending vacuum tothe CAD motor on the axle. The light is driven from a vacuum switch under the coolant bottle on the firewall. Verify that the T-Case is actually shifted out of $WD, then start in on the vacuum system. It's possible that the T-case vacuum switch is stuck/broken and just feeding vacuum even though the T-case is in 2wd. Jack up the front axle, then try and turn the front driveshaft by hand, if in 2WD it will turn, if in 4wd it will be locked in with the rear DS.

you say you checked the fuse, there are two. One is in the fuse block and it's marked trans, there's another one, INLINE on the power wire that goes to the TCU. I'd poke a multimeter around on the TCU harness and see if it's got 12V going into it. I believe it's a yellow wire, but I can't say for sure since I'ma 5 spd guy.

yeah, they raffled off a stage 2 front bumper with the hoop and tie ins, my dad won it, and since my brother already has a stage 2 bumper I got it :D much enthusiasm.

well. Just got back from Winterfest, had a blast. Flatnasty is a really cool place, if you get a chance, go. Beat the Mj up pretty well, pretty much sealed the beds fate, gonna go ahead and tube it. Plan on removing the out bedsides, keeping the inner sheetmteal and fenders and just making it a half stpeside thing with some tube. more pics to come, Dad hasn't uploaded his camera yet. I came home with a real nice gift though: JCR hooked up the raffle, and I got one of those with the unibody tie in brackets.

rocker panel is an easy enough fix, just cut it out and replace it with box. If the floors are in good shape I'd do it in a heartbeat. Then truggy it :)

you'll be alright with that. Just keep an eye on the old main leaf for signs of stress where the second leaf contacts it.

never heard of a factory rear swaybar, my guess is that someone installed it for towing or some such.

I like valvoline oil, and it's what the 4.0 gets. The wife's camry get's mobil 1. The diffs get the cheapest oil I can stuff in them, because they get changed frequently. If you wheel it hard it's not worth putting the syntheting in the diffs, because eventually you'll be popping the cover for something. For a street machine I'd put valvoline or mobil one 85-140 in the rear diff, and 75-90 in the front. If you don't tow or romp on it hard 75-90 is fine in the rear, I run the heavier oil because it settles the detroit.

I can tell you this, stock gears suck for performance. If you could effectively increase your gear ratio you'd see a big performance jump. 31's and 3.73's beat most of the "sports" cars around here.

nope, mine didn't leak a drop, just didn't build pressure. If you pumped it real fast the clutch would attempt to release.

yeah, but a short sidewall tire on a 14" rim would have two advantages. It would lower the entire turck, thus moving your CG down. It would effectively give you a gear ratio increase.

I think you're going to end up mixing and matching packs to get what you need. time to hit the yard with a tape measure.

unfortunately Mj packs are kinda rare in decent shape. Did he break the main leaf? Might try looking at 4WD s10s and dakotas, they were also sprin under and would have similar load and spring rates. If he's broken the main leaf though I'm not sure you'll find a pack with the correct eye to eye measurement of 57"

mine did that precise thing when the master went bad. Master was leaking past the seal in the bore, wouldn't hold pressure.

they make vinyl dye, that's the way to go. Doesn't flake off like paint would.

the only problem there might be the brake caliper. I'm sure you could find some old steel rims that are 5 on 4.5

curb weight of an MJ and driver would probably be in the 3500Lb area, as long as you don't use it to haul anything with those tires it should be fine.

cover the TPS! it's very water sensitive.

nice tone, too loud for my tastes though. your exhuast is just like mine with the exception of the muffler. I like quiet trucks.