87manche

if the CPS does not get a correct signal the ECU will not fire the coil. A few questions: Did you transfer over the HO computer, or just use it's wire harness? If you did transfer over the HO computer: Did you keep the HO CPS with the HO harness? Did you change the flywheel/flexplate with an HO variant. I believe the renix and HO flywheels are different. If you did not use the HO computer: Have you checked that the CPS connection is good? Did you use the HO CPS? If so, the Renix ECU doesn't understand it. You need a renix CPS. What you're describing is a classic no start symptom for a 4.0, and it's almost always related to the CPS. The ignition modules are fairly bulletproof, and have a very low failure rate.

even if it doesn't, pt the axle in so you can move the truck, just don't put it in 4wd until you get the gear ratios matching again. TO be doubly safe, take the front driveshaft out, just in case someone drives your truck and decides to mess with the fun lever.

I've got a d35 out back that died behind a heavy clutch drop and a 2.5L! spider gears are a mess. one tire slipped, then grabbed, bye bye spiders. I took it for the sare shafts, because I still have a D35 unfortunately. the 8.8 is in the garage waiting for a rebuild.

with a 4wd trans you could bolt the 208 up, you may need an adapter plate, there's also the issue of spline counts and such. might as well find a donor for botht he trans an case. There was a company that made a bracket kit that was reasonable, like $200 for the lower/upper trackbar bracket. maybe it was ruff stuff? edit: OK I lied, it's not a whoel kit, but they do have the brackets available for different tube diameters. My brother used the 8.8 kit, it's all way beefy stuff. http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/cat ... s-c-2.html prices seem high, until you realize he sells them in pairs, so $60 for link brackets doesn't seem so bad,.

that bumper opened that van like a can opener. I can't wait to have armor on the front of the manche.

they should make the rocker guards. no one makes a decent set of bolt ons, I paid $250 for mine and they needed to be modified to fit properly. I would have paid $345 for ones that just bolted on, and covered the entire length. Something they should also consider is just rocker guards that go the length of the cab, for those of us that are likely going to chop the sheetmetal off the bed, or just lose the bed all together.

that's an awesome picture twisty.

they'll cut the yoke off the t-case end, shorten the tube, then reattach the yoke. they won't want to mess with the slip joint part of it.

the pinion should point directly at the t-case only if you've got a SYE/cardan style driveshaft. Otherwise the two u-joints must share the same angle, but in oposite directions, so the u-joint harmonics cancel out.

lockers aren't really all that practical on the street, if you like your tires. They also eat up u-joints and cause some odd cornering behavior. for a rig that sees nothing but street time, a selectable locker is the best choice, with an LSD being next. I drive with a full detroit everyday and it's a PITA.

eggzachary a Dana 35 won't even stand up to a 2.5L on the street if you launch it hard. a 350 would mangle the internals faster than you could think about it. Do the 8.8, you won't regret the money spent there.

the xj harness will be the same. Go for one of those. Don't forget the ECU, as those will be chryco electronics.

track time and a dana 35 won't go well together. The carrier is weak, it will flex and you'll spit out the spider gears. upgrade now, THEN spend money on a traction aid for the 8.8 Or just go and find an 8.8 with a LSD. It will work well enough for what you want to do.

buy a new master, it's not that expensive. I think my clutch master was $25, the rebuild kit was $13, not worth it to have to rebuild a clutch master for $12. I agree that changing out the master is what I would try. it's a cheap solution if it works, and you avoid taking the trans back out. Mine turned out to be the hose leaking fluid, and when the master ran dry I destroyed the seals when I pushed it all the way in and it was dry.

the other option is a cable system. http://home.earthlink.net/~stevenschreiber/cabledis.htm

You may be correct then, I didn't see that in your post. I was under the impression that the core support changed for all modles in 87, regardless of motor. With the amount of work JB has already put into that thing I don't think changing the hood latch will pose a problem for him.

yes, you'll need the rad support as well, well, you might not ;)

a slight pinion offset won't harm you. The 8.8 doesn't have a centered pinion and works just fine. the MJ driveshaft is pretty long, so an angle isn't as severe as what it would be on a shorter Jeep.

You will need the bellhousing, whether or not it comes with the trans is up to the salvage yard, the BH is removable, so make sure you get it. You'll need the 3550 clutch parts, so buy a clutch kit for the 2000. You MAY need an oddball throwout bearing for the crankshaft, might want to call advance adapters or novak adapters to see if they can get you the right one. You're old T-case will be a 21 spline, all AW4 trans 87-90 were 21 spline. Anything HO will have a 23 spline t-case. Make sure you get the right spline length though, again, a call to Novak and they can get you the right input gear for about $60.

not true, the 84's thru 86's have a different hood and radiator support. You need an 87-96 to steal body parts off of. In 87 they moved the hood latched from the center, to the corners, to make room for the 4.0's rad.

bead blasting is not the way to clean up an axle, not unless you're going to completely rebuild it anyway. The beads get into everything, no matter how well you seal it up. I use Jeff's method Clean it up real well, take a flapper wheel to the tubes, wire wheel to all the odd shaped spots. Spray bomb it with rustoleum or something. I like the hammered paint, it covers rust well and sticks.

an ABS axleshaft will have the tone rings on it, just behind the U-joint on the axle side yoke., It's a splined collar.

agreed. If I can fit 34x9.5's on 3" you won' have any problems. I'm bumpstopped and trimmed, they tuck into the fender wells just fine. If you're using the stock rims I imagine they'd rub on the LCAs. I'm using 15x8's with 3.75" BS, cause that's the rims that came with the tire deal.

Dirty, Do you have tires already lined up for the wheels? If not, You might want to go the recentered hummer wheel route.

check the valvetrain for tightness, sounds like you might have a loose rocker.