87manche

I just thought of another thing to check. The fuel pump ballast resistor on the drivers side fender. Jumper those two spade connectors with a appropriate sized wire and see if it fires.

6 one way, half dozen the other. I prefer making gaskets with permatex, I use red RTV almost exclusively. some people prefer gaskets. Use whatever you're comfortable with on the trans. The oil pan will need a gasket though, and the nice rubber one is what you want to get. You'll still need a little RTV on the corners where the pan meets the front and rear main seals. While you've got the pan off do the rear main. Getting the pan off is 90% of the work of a rear main replacement, so you might as well do it while you're there. Fel pro makes a double lipped seal that seems to work well, it moves where the seal rides on the crank, so if your crank has a groove from the old seal that's the ticket. I've had the best luck on the valvcover with a cork gasket, and a smear of RTV on each side to get it to stick.

I've never heard they were the same (but that does not mean anything :brows: ). Do you know what S10 parts are the same, the latch / lever assemblies, or the handle and rod parts? I've not witnessed it first hand, but a friend of mine had 3 MJ's in the 90's. Told me that the innards of the tailgate were pretty much all the same. I can't say any more about specifics.

hell, you can run 31's on the stock suspension if you bumpstop it, and adjust the stops for the steering wheel. the fender wells in the rear are big enough, some light trimming up front and a flare relocation and stock would work just fine.

well if it's got spark it's not the CPS. got fuel pressure check?

is the sunroof a factory piece? if so, I call dibs if/when you ever sell that. I'd love to have spare glass for mine, but it seems that when you ask a glass shop for the sunroof glass in an 87 comanche they just look at you.

rumor has it that the older s10s used the same pieces parts for the latch. probably a lot easier to find those.

not if they get hung up against the flywheel and in your clutch. ask me how I know. turned a relatively simple job into an all afternoon ordeal.

I'm just posting a link to the naxja thread. no dial up http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=925050 my brother in the nice looking red xj took all those.

Nah, I know that ford's last a long time, it's just that I grew up in a ford loving family, so I switched to liking mopars just to piss them off. Coming from a derbying past, I actually prefer to run either old mopars or fords because of their reliability and strength. Plus from my own personal experience, I've not yet been able to blow up a ford 5.0. Although a chevy 5.0 is fairly easy for me to blow up. yeah, there's a ton of fox body mustangs around here with 5.0's that should have died a long time ago. it's a hard motor to kill. I've never cared for Ford's fit and finish, they always seem to creak/rattle and groan after a year, but for longevity they're well proven around here.

I should have thought of this... My 98 ZJ had some issues earlier this year, but it would at least run really rough, I wasnt able to figure it out, my mom's mechanic was surprised it even ran. Turned up my CPS was half eaten by the flywheel... :eek: ouch. as much as I hate throwing parts at things, with a renix rig there's no code to tell it's bad. And to test it a multimeter just isn't good enough. I know that the FSM specs out an ohm reading for it, but that's an educated guess at best. To properly test it you'd really need an o-scope. anyway, it's the #1 cause for no starts/spark/injectors, and it's a pretty common failure due to the harsh enviroment it lives in. Have fun replacing it. You'll need about 14" of extensions, a wobbly socket, and you might want to drop the trans x-member so you can get at it easier. DO NOT DROP THE BOLTS IN THE BELLHOUSING! use grease or something in the socket to keep the bolts from falling into the hole in the bellhousing. If you drop them in there you're gonna be pulling the trans.

the injectors and ecu get power from the same fusible link that power the fuel pump, so if the pump has good voltage the link is good. Does it have spark? if it doesn't have spark that's a dead giveaway for a CPS failure.

say what you want, but in this area ford's are king when it comes to farm trucks. everything else falls/rusts apart, but there's an awful lot of those 80's F250s running around here everyday. that said, if I had the cash to drop on a brandy new rig, it'd probably have a duramax in it.

pressure is inverse to temperature. release pressure and gas reduces the temperature of the liquid that the gas was in. leading to slushy. so, it's not deirectly related to pressure, it's just a side effect of an extremely cold carrier liquid releasing a massive amount of CO2 all at once. if it had fizzled off slowly it wouldn't have frozen.

looks like a 60 up front, probably a 60/70 or 14 bolt in the rear. and some gigantic boggers, I'd say in the 50" range.

it does, you've got to get a bleeder for it instead of the plug that's there.

http://www.comancheclub.com/forums/view ... c&start=15

shortbed or long bed? my 31" spare fits under my longbed no problem, of course, wheeling with it there will destroy it. anyway, looked into making a tiregate sort of device? and check out CWlongshots build thread, he made a nice tire carrier/tailgate.

yes, a booster that isn't getting proper vacuum will not provide power assist. Leaving you with a rock hard brake pedal. there is a seal between the master and the booster, but I think it's more likely a problem with the booster itself.

crazy shackles are out. I'm not a big fan of revolvers on our kinds of terrain. Too much off camber unloading that will make you crap yourself. Jeff, I was planning a trip to wellsville end of august, so if you can make it, we'll go wheeling ;)

goto the junkyard, pull a bunch of defrost switchs from cherokees, there ya go, factory switches.

yeah, 4" loaded is the goal, so it's gonna be like 5 or 5.5 empty. perhaps I'm gonna stick with my original 2wd main leaf plan with exploder packs, unless I can find the magical 7 leaf FSJ packs somewhere.

as do I, I think mine are gonna get that treatment.

alright, so I'm going to be doing something a bit odd this fall. going SOA, but want to keep the rear at 4" need it to be flexy, yet still be able to carry 500 lbs of gear looking at FSJ leaves. who's got the info on them. length? load capacity? spring rates? pretty sure they should bolt up, and be nearly flat. I'll likely move my shackle hanger forward so I can use the long shackles and have a 45* shackle angle, should provide good flex. hit me with ideas fellas. I was going to use some 2wd MJ leaf packs, but I think that even they will put me around 6" with the 8.8.

there are more than that, as the LWB models had two tank options, an 18 gallon and 23 gallon.