Eagle

a bad O2 sensor doesnt always trip the check engine light does it? Just noticed that you have an '89. There is no Check Engine light. The only light is the Maintenance Required light, and that's run by a timer to remind you to change the O2 sensor every 80,000 miles. The light usually gets disconnected the first time it turns on, because the factory says it can't be reset and most owners don't feel like buying a new timer.

What year and what engine? With nothing known about the vehicle, my first guess would have to be oxygen sensor. Second guess would be EGR, if you have one.

Pete beat me to it. The easiest route by far would be to get a short wheelbase MJ and build that.

A '94 YJ should be an AX-5. The transfer cases on the Wranglers were clocked slightly different from the XJ/MJ, but you actually may not need to hammer the floor pan -- or if you do, it's VERY minimal. My '88 MJ (4.0L) had an AX-15 and 231 from a YJ swapped in by the previous owner. He cut the shifter floor opening larger because he kept the YJ transfer case shifter, but I don't see any evidence that the floor pan was "massaged" to allow for the different clocking of the transfer case (and it IS clocked). He also retained the YJ transmission shift lever, and it works fine. Stands up taller and straighter than the original MJ shifter, but I've gotten used to it and it's not a problem in any way ... except that it doesn't look original. At some point I will exchange it for an XJ/MJ shift lever, but only because of aesthetics and "purity," not because of functionality.

The AW4 stuff should be almost stand-alone. How badly could he have messed it up?

I use a magnetic-mount on the roof. And it does occasionally get knocked off by trees on trails, but it hasn't been a problem on the street. Fiberglass whips are IMHO not a great idea if you're not driving an 18-wheeler up and down the Interstate.

It should work, but keep in mind that it may look different. All the 88s had the big C101 connector on the top of the firewall, directly in front of the driver (on the engine room side). The early 89s had the same connector, but it was eliminated mid-way through the 89 model year.

The black wire goes to ground and the tach feed wire comes off the negative terminal on the coil. At least, that's how the instructions for my Sun Super Tach said to wire it. What kind of tach did you buy that doesn't come with wiring instructions?

Sounds dumb, but for the rear lights ... start by checking the bulbs. If they're good, then follow the wiring harness forward from the rear lights to find the connector where the rear harness mates to the front chassis harness. If all the front lights work and none of the rear lights do, that's the most likely problem area.

Keep in mind two things: First, the guy who wrote that article was doing a WJ brake conversion, and the WJ calipers are totally different from the MJ calipers. What fits them may or may not fit an MJ. And secondly, he made up his list by looking at pictures on a web site. He says right in his write-up that he doesn't know if the ones he didn't use will fit. Advice like that is dangerous.

I used front lines (hoses) from a mid-90s Wrangler. The bend on the metal portion coming off the caliper had to be re-bent slightly, but the flex hose was more than long enough for a 4" lift.

Mate, if you don't have a track bar installed, there is nothing locating your axle under the chassis. You can lean on one fender and push that truck sideways across the axle, then go around and push it back from the other side. You do NOT use the drag link and/or tie rod adjustment to center the axle. That is the function of the track bar. 87manche stated it exactly right. After the axle has been centered with the track bar, and can't move laterally because the track bar keeps it in position, THEN you can use the drag link and tie rod adjustments to set your toe-in and center up the steering wheel. You can't adjust or center anything with no track bar. You also can't drive the vehicle without a track bar.

This is for the front. "Stock" height in front, measured from the center of the wheel/hubcap/axle stright up to the bottom edge of the flare should be 17-1/2". Rear is 17" for an XJ and around 20" or 20-1/2" for an MJ.

Sheesh. I made my own out of copper plumbing fittings. Started with a tee, sweated in a couple of very short pieces if straight pipe, added an elbow off the bottom, and I was done. I doubt it cost me more than ten bucks, and took all of 15 minutes to make up.

De nada, amigo. Muy interesante. Su camioneta esta super unica.

You're still not clear. The AX-15 5-speed tranny has no linkage, the shift handle goes directly into the top of the transmission. It sounds kind of like you might actually be looking for pics of the transfer case linkage, but you haven't said so.

This sounds like a job for Auto Taser. http://www.finalstop.com/pepper/autotaser/autotaser.htm

AMC wasn't especially anal about the 7-slot thing. It wasn't until after Chrysler took over that they started making A BIG DEAL out of the 7 slots. Chrysler sued Hummer over it, and lost. Idiots.

Dealers today aren't programmed to repair things, only to replace them. It is possible that your peddle assembly is beyond repair, but it's not likely. They are fairly simple mechanisms. What usually happens is they get gummed up internally and the ratchet teeth don't engage when you step on the peddle. If that's the problem, you should be able to remove the assembly, clean it thoroughly, perhaps fiddle a bit to get the ratchet moving again, then lube it up with white grease and reinstall. There may also be a small spring inside that's broken. A good hardware store or auto parts place should sell miscellaneous springs and you may be able to match one up from their assortment if you need one. First step is you'll need to get the peddle assembly out of the truck so you can see what's going on.

The MJ dashboard is the same as an XJ dashboard through 1996. If the factory player is from a 1996 or older XJ it should work. 1997 and newer are 1-1/2 DIN units and won't fit the MJ dash opening.

????? What transmission, manual or automatic? Are you looking for a photo inside the cab, of the floor shifter, or do you want pics of the linkage underneath the floor pan?

Fernando, the 2.5L engine in the U.S. was equipped with the carburetor only in 1984 and 1985. The Comanche was introduced in 1986 and in that year the 2.5L engine had the throttle body injection. You will not find any owners of 2.5L Comanches with carburetors in the U.S. -- the combination does not exist. I don't know what combinations were used on export models.

What part of the parking brake assembly is bad? Possibilities include the foot peddle assembly itself, the forward cable from the peddle to the "spreader," or either (or both) of the rear cables between the spreader and the rear wheels. On my '88, I had to replace the forward cable. It was still available 5 years ago, dunno if it is today. On the 87, I have to replace both rear cables.

It would help to know what year MJ, because Chrysler reversed the polarity AND changed the ohm rating on the sender in 1991. However, there is a basic test you can use w/o knowing the year or polarity. Step 1 -- disconnect the plug under the bed that's about a foot from the tank. This creates an open circuit. Turn on the ignition. The needle will peg to one side or the other (Full or Empty). Which side depends on the year. Don't worry about it, just note which way it went. Step 2 -- go back to the connector you unplugged. It has three wires. Color may change by year, but ground is always black, and the fat, heavy wire is always the one that powers the fuel pump. The third wire is for the sender. On the chassis side, jumper the gauge power wire to the ground wire. Now go turn on the ignition and look at the gauge -- it should be pegged to the opposite side from where it was with an open circuit. If not, either the gauge is bad or you have a broken wire between the gauge and that connector.

????? Doesn't matter if the springs run over or under the axle, or if you use very long coils. At 6 inches of lift you are going to have serious steering geometry problems, and if you think running the spring under the axle is going to make that disappear you are mistaken.