Eagle

Correction. 2000 Cherokee and Wrangler. Please don't try to tell me it wasn't available in the 2000 Cherokee -- I have one parked in my garage.

Rebuild parts for the 2.5L should be available anywhere. The pistons, rings, and both rod and main bearings are the same as in the 4.0L -- plus Dodge used the 2.5L in the Dakota for a number of years. It's not like it's a rare engine or anything.

Usually if the slave goes bad you have no clutch. Check the hose between the master and slave. Mine cracked right where there's a sharp bend, near the upper end where it goes past the exhaust manifold. That was enough to let all the fluid out. If that's the problem, the hose is a lot easier (and cheaper) to replace than an internal slave cylinder.

More lift would be like running with less load and should result in LESS braking to the rear, not more. Your system is messed up.

Oil pan clearance is a major issue. 3" of lift lets you run a SBC on the street, but if you have a flexy suspension and take it off-road where you'll get the front suspension all twisted up ... more is better. BTW -- a friend of mine has (unless he's sold it by now) a Cherokee with a SBC in it. It's a VERY tight fit, and you will definitely have cooling problems.

Ebay.. I got two on there now :roll: XJ or MJ? If they are MJ, send me your phone number again. (Please)

Replacing the sending unit may be easy, but where do you find a new one? Fuel pumps don't include the fual level sending unit. The problem is often the float, and replacement floats are not available, either. Do you have a source for fuel level sending units?

The 97+ speedo might work with the wiring in a 91 or 92 MJ, but the 90 and older had a mechanical speedo. I seriously doubt there is any way to adapt the old speedo to both fit and work in the new style dashboard. And don't forget that Chrysler also reversed the polarity on the gauges in 1991. Hook a new style gauge up to the 90- wiring and the gauge will read in reverse ... gas gauge will say empty when the tank is full, temp will say it's 260 degrees when you first start the engine, and oil pressure will go down as engine speed increases.

4.88 And those are aftermarket, not Dana-Spicer.

Not really a problem, but if you're working on a concrete floor, just sprinkle some speedy dry where the tires will be before you pull the vehicle into position. The speedy dry will act like little ball bearings and allow the tires to "scrub" easier on the concrete.

Part of the key for that (and for the front control arms as well) is to drop the chassis back onto the wheels (or onto jack stands supporting the AXLES, not rhe frame/body) before torquing the nuts. This tightens the bolts with the suspension at its normal ride height, whereas if you torque everything down when the axle is hanging by the bushings, you effectively pre-load the suspension.

I have never tried OME shocks, but like my compatriot I hear only good things about them. The downside is the price. I can afford Monroes. FWIW, a few months ago I finally replaced all 4 SensaTracs on my '88 XJ. I can't find the records to be certain, but my brother and I figured they probably went about 150,000 miles. They didn't blow out ... they got extra stiff. Advance Auto replaced them without any question.

Nope

You need Marcus (a.k.a. GoJeep). http://gojeep.willyshotrod.com/HowtoAlignment.htm Bookmark his site -- he has a wealth of XJ information on there, and a lot of it will translate over to the MJ.

My friend in PA is running Ranger alloys on a 4WD MJ. Dunno if he had to enlarge the center holes or not. Backspacing is less than factory MJ, though.

What are you running for shocks? My '87 and my '88 are both SWB. The '87 rides a lot better than the '88. The '87 is on whatever shocks were in it when I bought it, the '88 is on a set of Gabriels that I installed new about a year ago. Try a pair of Monroe SensaTracs on the rear. Taking out leaves will soften the ride, but it'll also lower the truck and reduce your carrying capacity.

No, my '88 has the sphere. The sphere has only one chamber, the ovoid has two chambers. It was used with some extra options, usually cruise control (which uses engine vacuum to regulate the speed).

I have a friend in Greece who runs the Weber conversion on his 2.5L 4-cylinder Cherokee. He reports that it generates a lot more power than the old carburetor it replaced, which is similar in design to the one on your 2.8L. The Weber is a good carburetor ... I think it's worth trying it. Just be certain that the engine itself is in good condition before you convert. It would be unfortunate to spend the money for the conversion and then blow the engine.

Yep -- you have a vacuum leak. The heater controls use vacuum to control the flappers, and the default position when they lose vacuum is the defrost position. On an '86 I don't think you have the round or oblong vacuum ball or "blimp" that the later models have, located behind the front bumper on the right side. I believe yours should have the tin can vacuum reservoirs -- look under the hood, on the right side of the vehicle, probably mounted on the inner wheel housing. Follow all the vacuum tubing and look for cracks and/or splits.

I don't think there's enough demand to gear up for it. First, the tank for the SWB is different from the tank in the LWB, so to cover what is already a very limited market you'd have to tool up two separate models. Secondly, original configuration replacement tanks are readily available for a bit over $100. The gas tank in an MJ (especially a SWB, I haven't wheeled a LWB) doesn't seem to be particularly vulnerable. I've hit the skid plate on my XJ numerous times, but I've never touched the one on the MJ. Speaking only for myself, it wouldn't be worth more than maybe $150 to me. That's already a 50% premium over a stock replacement -- there's no way I could justify paying any more than that.

Don't tap the power to the voltmeter off a skinny accessory wire under the dash, like the radio circuit. You won't be getting an accurate reading because of voltage drop. The best source would be where the battery positive cable attaches to the main power center under the hood, and you want to run the biggest wire you can. I would run 14-gauge as a minimum. Try to run your ground wire as close to the battery as you can, too, so you have a good connection. Funky gauge readings with the stock gauge cluster are often caused by a bad ground from the cluster to the chassis.

You have to be sure you use the correct bolts. The clearance between the CPS and the teeth on the flywheel is only a couple of thousandths of an inch. First, I hope you reinstalled the bell housing with the locator sleeves/pins on the two lower bolts. Those are necessary to establish the correct relationship between the bell housing and the block. Then, the two bolts that hold the CPS are shoulder-type bolts that are a very snug fit in the holes of the CPS mounting flage in order to maintain that critical location. If you dropped or lost those bolts and substituted whatever you could lay your hands on, you may have too much space for the CPS to generate a signal.

The fuel gauge should work properly when swapping gauges for idiot lights. However, both the temperature sender and the oil pressure sender have to be replaced. The ones for the idiot light cluster are not sensors, they are simple on-off switches. The ones for the gauges are variable resistors. The tach should also work with no modifications or external connections.

CPS (Crankshaft Position Sensor)

Nope.