Eagle

Guys, be careful how much you talk up any truck's value "because it has a lot of good parts in it." Remember, we ARE talking about a rust-bucket. I'm buying complete, running, solid MJs for between $100 and $500. Yeah, they're 2WD, but they are viable vehicles. If you lads start driving the price of PARTS trucks up to a grand, soon we're going to be paying $2000 for any MJ that runs and hasn't broken in half. COOL YER JETS! A junkyard will tow it away for him for free. If he can sell it to someone for $250 he's ahead of the curve. Forget this "I'd pay $700 for it" stuff. At least ... in public.

The RENIX computer in an '89 doesn't reset. More accurately, it doesn't need to be reset because it doesn't "learn" anything -- it automatically resets every time you turn off the ignition. It also doesn't control any of the problem items mentioned. You've got plain old electrical problems.

The 228 or 229 was what they were using as the 'Selec-Trac" option back then, and just like the NP242 Selec-Trac on the newer XJs, I don't think the option was offered with the 5-speed. So it's most likely an AX-5 with NP207, but as noted, it could be a T-5 tranny.

Our new member StrokerMJ is so-named for a reason :D Pick his brain. The problem with this kit (aside from not knowing how to spell Cleavite, which to me is a BIG problem, because it means they are functionally illiterate) -- what are they using for rods, and what are they using for pistons? Here's the deal: The 4.0L crank and the 4.2L crank have the same journal diameters, so you can drop a 4.2L crank in the 4.0L block and get a longer stroke. Cool. BUT ... The 4.2L rods are smaller and wimpier than the 4.0L rods, and if used with stock (or stock-replacement overbore) pistons, the piston comes just slightly too high in the bore, resulting in too much compression and resultant detonation ("ping") problems. But if you use the beefier 4.0L rods, they're too long to work with stock pistons and the longer stroke. Accurate Power (the company that's now defunct) used to have custom pistons made up with a higher wrist pin height to compensate, so they could run the longer 4.0L rods with the stroker crank. The specs on this kit say 9:1 compression, but it doesn't say how they get there. If I don't know how they're achieving it -- I don't believe it.

Big bucks for what is basically a 4.2L crank. Gotta tell you, I'd feel a lot more confidence if they could at least spell the name of the world's best-known bearing company correctly. (It's C-L-E-A-V-I-T-E)

Slow down and approach it logically. I saw your other post about tossing in ECUs and "stuff" because you don't "think" you have spark. That's no way to trouble-shoot a problem. Do you have spark, or not? Easy check -- pull the wire off a plug, hold it in well-insulated pliers near any bolt on the engine (or near the tip of the spark plug), and have someone crank over the engine. If you get a big, fat, blue flame -- you have ignition. No flame -- no ignition. If you don't have ignition, try checking the CPS -- or just replace it, since the test isn't 100% reliable. There's a resistance spec for it, but the spec is for "warm engine." I'm still trying to figure out how to warm up an engine that won't start ... If you have spark but no start, then you wonder about fuel. If you don't hear the fuel pump running for a few seconds when you first turn on the key, it probably isn't getting power. Crawl under the chassis, unplug it (there's a connector about a foot away from where the wires go into the tank), and check for current on the big, fat wire. If the fuel pump has power and runs, pump it up 'til it stops, turn it off, then push the button on the Schrader valve on the fuel rail. (Put a jar or a large absorbant cloth in front to catch the gasoline.) If you get a good squirt, you have fuel pressure. No squirt = no pressure. If you're not sure about the fuel, just pour a small amount of straight gasoline into the mouth of the throttle body. Not a lot, just a spalssh. Crank it over. If you have decent spark, it should start and rev for a couple of seconds on the fumes from that splash. If it won't start at all, go back to checking for spark. Do NOT just start throwing parts at it ... unless you have deep pockets and enjoy self-flaggelation.

3.55 was an available ratio, and in fact was the ONLY ratio offered with the 4.0L and automatic.

Where are you trying to connect in, in the engine compartment or back by the tank? The black wire coming out of the fuel pump assembly is the ground. The heavier wire going in (I think orange is the correct colour for your year but not all years were the same) is for the fuel pump, and the third wire (violet in 1988 IIRC) is for the fuel level sender.

The seals for the fixed "vent" windows are completely different from the seals for the operable windows. FWIW, the operable windows ALL leak. I paid extra to get the operable vents on my 1988 Cherokee, which I bought new. The vents leaked from Day One. The "fix" that the factory rep wanted to apply was to replace the optional windows I had just paid extra for with the fixed windows. They weren't offering to refund the extra money I paid, so I told him to take a long walk off a short pier. I periodically open the vents and apply Sil-Glyd (NAPA's brand of silicone grease) to the weatherstrip where the window makes contact. That's been working well for 19 years. By the way -- Josh, the title of your post seems to be a little misleading. "OEM" means "Original Equipment Manufacturer," which translates to "factory." If you really want OEM parts, the answer is any Jeep or Dodge dealer. If you're willing to get parts that work from places like Advance/Checkers/Shucks or AutoZone, you'll save a bunch of money but the parts will not be "OEM."

Being an '87 I don't think I can get a factory build sheet that'll have accurate codes, but I'd be willing to bet a latte that my '87 SWB is factory original with the D44. I bought it from a girl whose father was the original purchaser. There is nothing about the truck to suggest that they ever did anything other than drive it, and maybe change the oil once every five years or so. I have to replace the driver's door window mechanism when I get the truck back on the road. Maybe I'll get lucky and find the original build sheet tucked inside the trim panel.

Actually, for a '99 thru '01 XJ it's 100% of the time.

Step one, if you smell gas in the oil, is change the oil. Throw in cheap Wal-Mart stuff if you have to, but get the gasoline out of the crankcase. Then start diagnosing. My first reaction was that your CPS went bad. That controls ignition, timing, and injection pulses. If your rings are worn and a lot of gas was going into the cylinders and not getting fired, some would leak down past the rings. The Big Bang was probably the swan song of your catalytic converter, when all the unburned raw gasoline hit the hot catalyst. However, I think you also need to check your compression, just to be sure you didn't burn a hole in the top of one of the pistons. That could also account for gaslone in the crankcase.

Only about 4 billion now that we've cleaned out all the porn links to Jennifer Aniston, Paris Hilton, Jessica Simpson and friends engaging in unprintable acts of beastiality. That dude was busy. Took up most of my morning finding as many of his posts as I could and getting rid of them.

I've cleaned out a lot of their posts, but I don't have mod access to the MJ Projects forum or the Trail Rides forum. Those will have to wait for Pete to get back, which should be pretty soon now. I also don't seem to have any ability to ban anyone, so final resolution will be up to Pete. Keep a list of any others you see. I sent Pete a list of five who are using the same IP, but there seem to be a couple of others active as well.

Cole, I haven't done it, but a friend of mine down the road installed one of the Mopar MPFI conversions into an early 4.2L (carburetted) Wrangler. I helped him a little. He didn't replace the vehicle fuse panel or instrument cluster. He just had to splice into the vehicle chassis harness in a couple of places to get power for the engine controls. I don't see why it would be any different for a 2.5L. Once you start messuing with the vehicle harness and fuse box, you're going to have to rewire the entire truck. And an XJ harness is NOT the answer ... there are differences between the XJ and the MJ, particularly with respect to stop & tail lights and hazard flashers. You'll need a wiring diagram for your truck, and for the year XJ the new engine comes out of, but with those two diagrams you should be able to figure out where you need to connect the engine controls into the chassis harness. I wouldn't go beyond that.

Folks, we have been infested with a dedicated spammer. So far, we know that Abadmoenceder09, Sterjoha57, Ananceter, Edter54, and Eredder7 are the same person -- or posting from the same IP address. Some of the forums they posted in I don't have mod access to. The ones I can mod, I'll try to clean out until Pete gets back. Until then, fer Gawd's sake do NOT quote the posts. That means I have to not only get rid of the offending posts, I also have to look through each thread and either edit or delete every response that quotes it. Best is if you don't even respond. When you encounter posts by this person (under any alias), just send me a PM with a copy to Pete so we know about it. Do not engage them on the forum ... that's what they want: attention.

Folks, I'm faced with a minor dilemma. I can go through and remove each of this dude's posts, but it doesn't appear that I have the capability of banning him. That being the case, I think it best to leave the posts up until Pete gets back so he can see what's going on. I'm thinking we should consider doing what another forum I moderate on does ... set up a separate forum area called the Laundry Room. We never delete anything. We just move it to the Laundry Room, which preserves the evidence. Only the mods have access to that forum. Dunno if we can do that here, but it may be worth looking into.

I been fixin' mah Jeeps! Gimme a hint -- what'd I miss? If you have time, drop me a PM with the thread links and I'll nuke 'em. I haven't noticed any new spam, but I've been busy.

The time is creeping ever closer. I'm not ready, but it's coming anyway so ... Happy New Year, everyone.

You can get away with a lot if you're driving an automatic. Pretty much by definition, though, an XJ or an MJ with 3.07s is a 5-speed. Trying to drive a manual tranny with 3.07 gears and huge tires would be excruciating. It would also be an opportunity to buy stock in a company that builds clutches, 'cause you'll be going through a few in rapid succession.

I'm sure I've posted this before. Note: it is copyrighted, and I am NOT granting permission for anyone to copy it, print it, or pass it along in any form.

The truck he's asking about is an '89, so it's not likely to be a 2.8L V6. I think he means 2.5L (the I-4?). Assuming that to be the case -- it's extremely reliable. It IS the same engine as the 4.0L, with two cylinders lopped off. You do need to figure that most of them came with 4.10 gears, so the same number of chassis miles equates to a lot more engine revolutions than a 4.0L, but I have an '88 in the yard with 209,000 miles on it that ran perfectly when I drove it in here. Hasn't been used for a year because the clutch slave cylinder blew, but that's not the engine's fault. One difference between the 2.5L and the 4.0L is that the 2.5L uses a rubbing block/guide inside the font cover for the timing chain. Those tend to wear. If/when you begin to hear even a little bit of timing chain slap -- don't delay repairing it.

Your 91 uses a temp sender in the thermostat housing for the ECU, and one in the back corner of the head for the gauges. The new engine will not have a hole in the head for the sender to feed the gauge, because the newest Jeep electronics feeds the gauge data from the central PCM data buss. The water passage is there -- just drill and tap the hole (carefully, keeping the metal chips out of the water passage).

My '88 had 31s and 3.07s when I first got it. How many different words can you think of to express the concept of AWFUL! 32s or 33s will be exponentially worse than awful.

The critical dimension is from the face of the mounting flange to the wheel mounting surface on the hub. The newer ones ARE different, and if you use the wrong ones the brake rotors won't turn in the calipers. Offhand, I'd say they gave you the hubs for the wrong year.