Eagle

I'll guess August 25, 2008. 20:55 hours, EDT

Did it ever run properly? If not, don't discount the possibility that some previous "technician" may have had the distributor out, and reinstalled it a tooth or more out of position. Also, be sure the catalytic converter isn't clogged.

DaimlerChrysler reverted to an external slave cylinder for the XJ in 1994. But the slave is under the floor and, for the MJ, inside the bell housing. There's no way the slave cylinder can leak into the cab. You must be talking about the master cylinder.

What small vents? I didn't see any vents at all, just a replacement heater core. I saw NOTHING that even hinted at air distribution or system controls. There has to be more in the "complete kit" than what's shown in the parts listing, but I don't see any detail or breakdown.

Nowhere on their web site do I see any indication of any air distribution ducts for the interior. Before plunking down nearly a tousand dollars, I think you need more specifics of just what the "complete kit" includes, and what it's going to look like. The old "Factory Air" (aftermarket brand name) kits for the Grand Wagoneers and full-size Cherokees were very functional, but they hung below the dash and took away all the knee space, had NO provision for bringing in outdoor air (100% recirculated, all the time), and were just plain ugly. My '87 Comanche has an aftermarket setup that was apparently dealer-installed at the time the truck was bought new. It uses the original ductwork, but somehow mates it to the original heater controls (IIRC) to run the A/C. I can't comment on how well it worked, as it has not worked since I bought the truck.

Hey, CW -- Where were those shots taken? That trail looks a bit like a trail I've been on toward the nothern part of CT near Sturbridge. MA. Didn't know it was still open. Is that the place, or do you have some other place to wheel?

Summit Racing has it. Moroso part number 63650 for the cheaper one with the stamped filler neck, or 63651 for the one with the machined billet filler neck. It needs a couple of elbows from a plumbing supply house and it's good to go. Uses a standard radiator cap. I'm using a STANT brand with a lever, but the lever is optional.

That's why I advocate just replacing the plastic surge tank with a Moroso surge tank, and keeping the original style radiator. Everything else works as it always did, plus you even gain a bit of coolant capacity.

The original rear bumper on my '88 XJ lasted 18 years. The replacement is barely two years old, hasn't seen anywhere near as much snow and salt, and is already rusted through the "chrome" plating on the top surface.

Print this out for him: The above is copyrighted, and this is NOT blanket permission to reproduce and distribute.

Yes. I've posted the run-down on hub/knuckle/rotor/caliper combinations a couple of times. They do not mix-n-match.

Don't forget that once you put the XJ 4WD setup in the MJ chassis, you won't have a rear driveshaft of the correct length.

I can't find the thread in which someone asked about manual steering boxes with a faster ratio than stock. I was searching for something else tonight, and I found that NEW Saginaw 525 boxes are being manufactured right up the road from me. And they offer the 16:1 quick ratio I remember from my autocross days.

Paint will stick fine to aluminum. Just be sure to blast it with brake cleaner before painting to be sure it's completely degreased. Been meaning to ask you -- what's the steering column out of? That's a great way to solve the problem of how to handle the PRNDL when swapping out an idiot light cluster for an XJ cluster with full instrumentation.

The shuddering on start-up is not the transmission, it's the clutch. I notice you said the clutch is new. Dunno if you replaced the clutch, or if you had a shop do it, or if the previous owner did it or if HE had a shop do it. Whoever did it, I'll bet you a pink lemonade that it wasn't done right. Usually by the time a clutch needs to be replaced, the flywheel has developed some "hot spots." If something isn't done about these, a new clutch will grab better on the areas between the hot spots than it will on the hot spots. The result ==> chattering, or shuddering as you try to engage the clutch in first gear. Traditionally, when replacing a clutch the flywheel was machined to remove the hot spots. HOWEVER -- the XJ/MJ factory service manuals specifically say NOT to do this (but they don't say why). So, my guess is that one of two things happened when your clutch was replaced: either the flywheel was NOT resurfaced, leaving the hot spots and virtually guaranteeing shuddering, or the flywheel was machined even though it should not have been, which can result in the clutch slipping -- which might feel like shuddering.

Put a Tractech TrueTrac limited slip in your D44 axle and leave it alone.

Worn out synchronizer.

Jeeps never had "posis". That;s a GM trademark. The Comanches had a Dana-Spicer limited slip called Trac-Lok. It does require an additive, which Jeep calls "friction modifier." It's available from any Mopar dealer. Best gear lube is 75W140 synthetic. That's what Jeep puts in the newer vehicles with tow options. But if you don't do a lot of heavy towing, there's nothing wrong with 80W90.

Only available for the HO version -- 1991 and newer. They require running high test gasoline and they do not help fuel economy. With today's gas prices, IMHO a chip would be a poor investment.

If the space beneath your clock is a plain, flat rectangle -- there is no display. In the 1980s AMC offered an option called System Sentry that monitored oil level, coolant level, and a couple of other variables. That display occupied the space beneath the clock, but it was divided into four or five horizontal bands, not a single rectangle.

Except for the rear axle and drive shaft ... as noted above.

I currently have 274,000 miles on my "crappy" Peugeot tranny. There's nothing wrong with that transmission if you don't abuse it. Not being able to get into gear at stop signs is a clutch problem, not a tranny problem. Although if you keep grinding it enough, the clutch problem can [ui]create[/i] a tranny problem ...

Under the hood ... or under the dash?

Just kidding, Pete. Seriously, finding a gaping hole through the firewall where there should have been a body plug certainly seemed like a viable suspect as the source of my chronic leak. However -- it's a Jeep, so nothing ever goes quite as expected. We received some rain last night, I went out late morning and opened the driver's door expecting to find a dry floor, and found ... a lake. :cry: Back to square one. I did notice when I popped the hood that, although there was no water running down lear where the new plug in the hole is, there did appear to be water running toward and possibly under the VIN plate -- which on the '88 MJ is mounted to the upper firewall near the hood hinge. The VIN plate is not in that location on my '88 XJ. That gets me wondering why they would move it ... unless it was a problem. It's only held on with two pop rivets, and I'll bet there's no sealant under it. So when the rain ends and things dry out, I think I'll drill out the rivets, relocate the VIN plate to where it is on the XJ, seal up the original holes and see if that makes a difference.

Isn't the differential for the front axle on the passenger side?