Eagle

That suggests that your truck already has the bypass harness installed.

They were never hard wired. The CPS has a pigtail about 10" long that terminates in a 3-connector weatherpack connector.

Is this for the '87 MJ? Go to the dealer and get the replacement CPS with the bypass harness. That'll give you both connectors, and the new wire that goes direct from the CPS into the ECU without going through the main harness and the C101 connector. If that upgrade hasn't been done on your truck, it's a "must have" upgrade.

Normally death wobble kicks in at around 45 or 50 MPH even if you don't hit a bump. If you can roll up to 75 MPH on smooth(ish) pavement, you're winnning. Definitely replace the other LCA -- they're cheap. Then check the balance on your tires, or just rotate the rears onto the front, and see if that makes a difference. By the time a tire is spinning at 75 MPH it should have enough gyroscope effect that it takes a LOT to make it wobble.

CPS That's exactly what happened the second time I had to replace it on my '88 XJ. (The first time it ran perfectly right up to the day it wouldn't start.)

The '86 hood is different, too. Same size, same shape -- but has a single latch at the center rather than two latches at the ouboard corners. Adaptation is possible but getting an '86 hood for an '86 vehicle and any other year hood for an '87 or newer MJ is much easier.

One other factor -- does your '89 have the C101 connector on the firewall or not? The early Renix XJs and MJs had a problem with the signal from the CPS having to travel through too much harness and too many conenctors, so you could have a situation where the CPS tested good at the first connector, but there wouldn't be a usable signal by the time it got to the ECU. The factory released a fix, which consists of a new CPS packaged with a bypass harness that runs straight through the firewall and directly to the ECU, bypassing all other harness and other connectors. If the other tests (coil and ICM) don't show a problem, I would seriously consider installing the CPS bypass harness.

The A-Team, can't remember the characters name, George Peppard played. Colonel Hannibal Smith.

Simple answer -- no. Adjusting the drag link is how you center the steering wheel. It will not affect the stops.

Well, the reality is that what I could lose is the rusty section of hard line from the rear hose "banjo" fitting to the left rear wheel. However, I suppose it would be better to lose that in the driveway than when a deer (or child) darts out in front of me.

"I love it when a plan comes together."

^^^ That's good info, but it's discussing the crankshaft position sensor, not the camshaft position sensor. The cam position sensor (if the 4-cylinder has one) would be inside the distributor. The 6-cylinder Renix models definitely have one. However, the above testing procedure offers NO information on how to actually test the CPS (crankshaft position sensor). That seems to be a more general procedure for trouble-shooting a no-spark fault. The verbiage doesn't sound familiar. Is that by any chance from a Chrysler tech manual for a '91 or newer Jeep? This thread is about a Renix 4-cylinder. Let's not confuse the issue with information about testing the newer Mopar systems.

The rocker style buckets will still bolt to the MJ pedestals. But you'll be sitting a couple of inches taller than normal. Fine if you're less than 6 feet tall, not so fine if you're tall.

1991 was the first year for the Chrysler electronics and the OBD-1 on-board diagnostics. I'm still not sure the brake warning circuit goes through the ECU, though. The switch is exactly the same as it is on the Renix models. Why would they route it through the ECU? I thought OBD-1 only monitored engine functions, not chassis functions.

The pedestals are the same. For the bench, instead of a release handle for the fore-and-aft adjustment there's a wire running from the driver's pedestal to the passenger pedestal. You'll lose that when you ditch the bench, which is why you then won't be able to adjust the right side seat. Unless you get creative and make your own handle for the release. The mechanism is there, it just needs a piece of steel rod welded into/onto it.

Early 89's have the big C101 connector on the firewall in the engine compartment, directly ahead of the driver. This was eliminated in mid-89 and is not present in the 90 models. I think that's what the original question relates to. Get an engine harness from an '88 or early '89 and you should be good to go.

The MJ pedestals are the same for the bucket seats or the bench seat. You can take the pedestals off the bench and use them under XJ buckets. The only thing you won't have is the ability to adjust the passenger seat forward and back, so decide ahead of time where you want it to be and set the pedestal there before you put everything together.

Okay, guys -- SOMEBODY who has a running 2.5L with the stock distributor, please put the #1 cylinder at TDC on the compression stroke and tell this man where the rotor is pointing. Better yet, take a photo. I would do it, but none of my 4-cylinder MJs is running at the moment.

So you moved the wires rather than reset the distributor? Doesn't the 4-cylinder have a camshaft position sensor in the distributor, like the 6-cylinder? If so, you may now have the spark out of synch with the cam position sensor.

Not sure what you mean by "phasing", I thought that at TDC the rotor should be lined up with #1 wire post on the cap since the computer takes care of all engine functions. Only in theory. In practice, all engine run with a bit of advance, meaning they fire the spark plug before the piston reaches TDC (top-dead-center) to allow for the air-fuel mix to start burning. The idea is to have the mix fully ignited so the flame front gets to the piston when the piston is at TDC. In order to build in some physical advance, the distributor is set up so that the tip of the rotor crosses the contact in the cap before the crank reaches TDC. It's hard to set that, so it's easier to set the timing mark on the harmonic damper to the TDC mark, and then align the distributor so the tip of the rotor is slightly beyond (in the direction of rotation) the contact in the cap. Are you certain your distributor is 180-degrees out? It shouldn't run like that -- that would make every cylinder fire when the piston is on the exhaust stroke. Jeep uses the term "indexing" the distributor, not "phasing." There is a TSB out for indexing the 6-cylinder distributor. I'm not aware of one for the 4-cylinder, but the concept would be the same.

There's a specific type of double-face tape made for the purpose. Any auto parts place should have it with the paint and body supplies. It's cleverly called "molding & emblem tape."

Luks (Luchs?) made the factory clutches. DO NOT have the flywheel resurfaced. The FSM specifically warns not to do so. If you do, you will ALWAYS have clutch problems.

The "trail" kit I bought is the wing nut type. That's the one that only works when clamped in a bench vise, and I don't carry a bench vise on the trail. I don't think that type is worth $4.99, let alone $49. Anyone who is in the market for this type of tool, spend the extra money to get the KD tool I listed. Don't get their other one, that's a wing nut kit, too. The KD 2190 works -- first time, every time. Time for a search and clear fire mission in the garage.

The bottle you got is defective. The one in my '88 MJ seems to be the factory original and it doesn't leak (yet), nor does it "pop" over the threads when I tighten it. They are plastic, and over-tightening will cause the threads to skip. But it should not require a gorilla grip to tighten it enough to hold pressure. As posted above, half-full (when cold) is correct. It's a pressure bottle/expansion tank. There is NO overflow, so the air volume is to allow for expansion of the coolant. If you topped it off, that's your problem. NEVER loosen that cap when the system is hot. That cap is your radiator cap. I assume you'd like to keep your hands? Boiling glycol is not kind to human skin.

There is no check engine light on an '88 MJ, and the Renix ECU doesn't store codes. The brake warning light has nothing to do with the ECU, it is controlled directly by the plunger switch on the metering block. Your '90 is the same.