Eagle

Let's take a poll: Who still has any bump stops left?

Of course we do! So ... did that help?

That might be the net cargo load, or carrying capacity, but that number is available from factory specs and has been posted on this site several times. That is NOT the GVW, or Gross Vehicle Weight. GVW is the total combined weight of the vehicle and the cargo.

Yes it is, and there is. In your photo, that cable running from the throttle body toward the passenger side, at exactly top center (12:00 o'clock) in your photo, is the kickdown cable.

"Just" need to recalibrate the tach? How do you do that for that year cluster?

Both what? Both switches? The '87 thru '90 auxiliary fan is controlled by either the sensor in the radiator tank (for overheating) or by activating the a/c compressor. Neither one involves the ECU. Temp data for the ECU comes from a temperature sensor mounted low on the left (driver's) side of the block. In the '91 thru '96 HO system, there is no sensor in the radiator tank. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing provides data to the ECU, and the ECO controls the auxiliary fan. The Renix ('87 - '90) radiator tank sensor is nothing but an ON-OFF switch. The HO sensor in the thermostat housing is a variable resistor that reports the actual temperatore (expressed as ohms). It is not a simple ON-OFF switch. It is not, in fact, any kind of a switch. It is a temperature sensor.

The XJ has all that glass and the very heavy fiberglass hatch over the back wheels to help the tires keep adhesion. The MJ has comparatively no weight over the rear wheels. Same reason an XJ is better than an MJ in snow.

When it's running? Or doesn't it run?

All that work for an "upgrade" that doesn't upgrade anything. I know I am in a small minority, but I see no reason whatsoever to go through all the modifications you are going through. The simple solution to your aux fan issue is to unplug the old sensor that was in the radiator tank. Clip the sensor off the wires, and run a pair of wires from the remaining pigtails through the firewall to a toggle switch on the dashboard. Plug the connector back in where it was. Control the fan manually when necessary for overheating. It will still function as before when the a/c cuts on.

Souns like it does everything except wash your windows.

TIME OUT! You replaced the WRONG sensor. The sensor in the thermostat housing controls the ECU, which (on the '91) in turn controls the aux fan. BUT ... the sensor for the gauge on the dashboard for the 1991 models is still located in the back left corner of the head, NOT in the thermostat housing.

So what do you think a turbo muffler is? something you bolt to the intake of the turbo to lessen the intake noise. :shake: Wrong. Next victim?

So what do you think a turbo muffler is? Jump to page 7: http://www.thrushexhaust.com/pdf/thrush.pdf

But the original post specified 1/8 mile. For an eighth, I'll still take the Honda. Sorry. I love my XJs and MJs, but I have owned a couple of Civics and an Accord. For the eighth, the Honda has it all over the MJ. Front wheel drive with the weight over the drive wheels, vs. rear wheel drive with no weight to help you hook up. Not gonna happen, GI.

my thoughts exactly, a turboback catback? sounds fancy, wish I had one. Ummm ... guys, a catback is an exhaust system from the catalytic coverter back. And a "turbo" exhaust is just a baffled muffler with fewer baffles than most OEM mufflers. But a 3" exhaust on a ricer 4-banger is pretty lame. The thing can't make any torque with that setup.

Try blocking off half or two-thirds of the radiator with heavy cardboard and see if that makes a difference. Connecticut doesn't get nearly as cold as where you are, but even around here a lot of trucks and school buses run grille jackets in the winter and keep them buttoned up most of the way.

My bad ... so many members have auto I fell into the trap of assuming. I guess let the gas take care of itself. Hold the brake, and let the clutch up partially just enough to torque the engine and slow the RPMs, but not enough to fully engage the clutch. You don't need to hold it there, you only want to "bump" it momentarily to see if the pipe will hit the cross member. As an alternate -- slip a thin piece of wood or something that's not "readily" combustible/meltable between the pipe and the cross member and try driving it. If the noise isn't there, you'll have a clue.

Somebody (FelPro?) makes a replacement RMS with a dual-lip wiper to address exactly this problem. If you see even a fait line on the crank surface that won't clean up, get the seal with the dual lips.

Congrats! :jump:

Remove the fuel pump relay. I would pull the spark plugs, squirt a bunch of light oil in there (like 0W20), and let it sit for a few days. Then squirt in a bit more, leave the plugs out, put a wrench on the bolt at the front of the crankshaft and see if you can spin the engine by hand. If so, spin it a few times by hand, squirt in some more oil, THEN use the starter to spin it a little faster. Be sure the oil pressure shows in the gauge (if there's a gauge) or that the light goes off if it has idiot lights. Then you can think about putting the spark plugs back in and trying to start it. Siphon the gas out of the tank. ALL of it. Put in fresh gas. Replace the fule filter. Then replace the relay and let the fuel pump try to move some new gas to the fuel rail.

As long as your name isn't Tiger Woods you're good to go ...

You don't have to unbolt anything. Just crawl under and eyeball it. Try a test: Keep your foot on the brake, put it in reverse, and touch the gas, forcing the engine to twist under torque. Listen for the clunk. If you hear it, repeat the procedure but have an assistant do the goosing the gas while you lie on the ground and watch where the exhaust pipe runs over the cross member. What can happen is that the resilient cushions in the tranny mount compress due to age, allowing the space between the exhaust pipe and the cross member to be reduced. When the engine twists, that can result in contact and a clunk or rattle.

Honda.

The HO does have the sender in the thermostat housing, but the stock 1989 sensor from the radiator tank won't fit the hole in a thermostat housing. And you can't use the HO sender, because the old sender is just an ON-OFF switch, but the new style is a variable resistor that sends actual data to the ECU and the ECU (on the HO system) in turn controls the aux fan. There are a few (a VERY few) senders that will fit the t-stat housing and that are just switches. And I don't remember what they are. IIRC, BLHTAZ had some info on that, so you might try searching with BLHTAZ as the user name and the terms of your choice for the search terms. Or just wire it to a toggle switch on the dashboard and control it manually.

You must own a much bigger bank than I do if you're thinking about an NV3550 conversion on an 88 Comanche. HOW much did you want to spend?